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need clutch help

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With the car in the air, the wheels will spin. Try to hold them back by hand when the clutch is depressed.
I don't nor will I ever have a moss book.
I have known the pin size for years. I have made many of them out of bolts.
 
Daniel,

Apply the emergency brake gently and slowly to stop the wheels from spinning. Do not use your hand. We don't want you to lose a hand, if the clutch disc is frozen to the flywheel or pressure plate. How much free play is there at the pedal when you depress it with your fingers, until the resistance increases? This is checking all of the parts at the master cylinder end. Can you move the clutch relase lever, item number 6 in Moss's online catalog into and out of the transmission, across the car? If so, the bushing item number 7 may be missing. If you determine that the clutch disc is frozen to the flywheel or pressure plate you may be able to free it up without removing the motor.

Put the car back on the ground.

Warm it up in neutral.

Shut the engine off.

!!!In a safe area where you can't hit anything!!!

Put the car in gear.

Start the engine. You will now be moving.

Hold the clutch pedal to the floor.

Stomp hard on the brake.

This worked for me in a large parking lot that was free of cars and anything else I could hit.

Phil
 
In 2nd with the clutch in (and the wheels spinning) I cannot stop them.. tried with both my hand and foot..

I meant I was checking moss at the same time you replied /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
is moss not a good place to get info/parts?
 
Phil-

I'll be working on the car later and will check the play on the pedal. Are you asking how far I can push the pedal before I feel any resistance?

I can move the clutch release lever freely from the front to back of the car with my hand - basically moving the slave push rod in and out.

I'll be back with the car this afternoon, is it possible to feel up into the clutch to know if the bushing might be gone? how far up is it?
 
The free play should be there when the clutch pedal is NOT being depressed. When it is depressed the clutch bushing should disengage from the plate. With the problem you are describing it sounds very possible that the throw-out bearing may be at fault as you seem to be getting no disengagement. Either there is a problem with the pressure plate being stuck or the throw-out bearing is not releasing the pressure plate. Rather than feel for the bushing (throw-out bearing), there are two rubber plugs on the bell housing, one on the other side of the clutch lever and the other up on top. If you remove the plug(s) and peek inside (a little mirror may help) with a flashlight you should be able to inspect the bushing. The plug on the other side of the lever is the one I would tackle first!
 
ok, very little free play on the clutch pedal. I looked inside with a mirror and everything seems to be moving around ok, so I'm thinking of trying Phil's idea to free the fly wheel. Only problem is my rear brakes need adjustment. I'm going to start another thread on that 'cause that's posing a bit of a problem as well.
 
Daniel,

The bushing I am refering to is around the screw that the release lever pivots on. It is about 1/2 way between the clutch slave cylinder and the release bearing. If it was left out when the clutch was replaced it will introduce a lot of lost motion in the sysem. This results in the release bearing not traveling far enough and the clutch n ot releasing properly.

The same is true at the master cylinder end. As you push the pedal down with your fingers you are taking up the free play in the linkage to the master cylinder and overcoming only the resistance of the pedal return spring. You are doing no useful work at this point. As soon as you start moving the piston in the master cylinder the resistance will increase. You will now be taking up the free play in the hydraulic system and the linkage up to the interface of the release bearing to the pressure plate. Once this free play is eliminated gthe resistance will go up again as you are now overcoming the springs in the pressure plate and doing useful work. Actually disengaging the clutch.

The goal is to eliminate as much of these free play areas so all of the pedal movement is performing useful work and disengaging the clutch.

Did you look up the references on Moos's online catalog?

Phil
 
Hmm, Bolt, clutch release fork.
 
Ahh, I hink we are all getting close!! startech is RIGHT!!, see my other post on the brake question!
 
I guess the project is on hold until I can get the parts to adjust the brakes properly. I cou;dn't quite see the bushing in the mirror when I was examining the the movement of the throw out bearing, I'm going to go under with another mirror and see if I can get a view of it.

Phil, I did refer to moss, thanks that makes it so much easier to know what I'm looking at.
 
ok, so I tried to do the start it in 2nd and hit the brakes.. problem is, it won't go.. I feel like I'm killing the starter, the care just bucks and never gets going, I'm thinking now that I may need to have the clutch looked at , even if it is just the bushing, I'll still need to have the engine pulled to get to it right? I'm wondering if anyone could give me a ball park price of what it might cost to have a mechanic pull the engine as that type of job might be beyond mey skill level at this point.
 
did actualy try 1st as well, same result.. maybe I'll try with a little more warming up this morning. I let it warm up maybe 5 minutes before, are we talking half an hour?
 
Just get the engine to operating temp. Down hill is good also if you can. Shoot in my younger days it was push start like that or walk, never walked. No starter for awile.
 
Hey Daniel,

Just wanted to comment on your engine pulling question. The only "skill" requirements to pull your engine are 1) The ability to turn a wrench 2) Space 3) and Patience.

You will also need an engine hoist which you should be able to rent for about $40 or buy for about $150-$200. A budy is also real helpful (though not neccessary). Said buddy does not need any mechanic skills, but it helps if he/she likes to drink beer.

Finally, take lots o' pictures so you can get everything back were it was.

wick
 
Or ask lots of questions, I take mine in and out by myself with a hoist. But then I have done it maybe a dozen times. The big rule is take your time.
 
If no engine hoist is available, if you have a good, stout rafter in the garage and a come-along, that will work! Before buying a lift, I used the old come-along for many years without a hitch.
 
if you have a Pep Boys in your area, they have a 2-ton engine lift for $120 or so after rebate. I'm planning on pulling the engine from my donor Midget this week. Never done it before, but can't be all that hard. Not with help from y'all, that is.

I'd say if you're feeling the least bit brave you can pull the engine yourself.
 
I've got a hill ready to go to give this thing a shot again tomorrow.. got people over today.. The more I think about it, I'll likely be pulling the engine myself (if it comes down to that). With all the help I can get here, I'm sure I'll do ok.
 
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