Need a Raise

[RAC68]

Hi All,

When driving my Healey recently, I noticed that the space above my left rear wheel was slightly smaller then the right space by 3/8". I have been trying to figure where to adjust the suspension to raise the left the 3/8" but have not found where and need and would like some ideas and/or direction from the group.

Thanks,
Ray (64BJ8P1)

 

[John Turney]

Drive with a heavier passenger?

Switch rear springs from side to side?

Is there a similar difference in gap at the front?

Is the body level when driving on the right side of crowned American roads?

 

[Healey Nut]

:highly_amused:A 24 of beer behind the passenger seat should fix it .:eagerness::welcoming::highly_amused:

 

[Keoke]

-- With all these folks -----3/8" Whew.
my left rear wheel was slightly smaller then the right space by 3/8". --:highly_amused:

OH!! you can switch to RT hand drive.---:chuncky:

 

[Roger]

Being of curious disposition, I want to know how you noticed and measured the difference in the gap while driving.

 

[RAC68]

double posted

 

[RAC68]

Well, I guess a Beer would diminished my perspective and the difference.

But, it brings up an issue that many may have of how do we adjust/increase rear body height per corner in s simple, direct manor. I began focusing on it again a couple of weeks ago and could not come up with a reasonable solution. Lowering a rear body corner could be accomplished by simply adding a spacer between spring and axel. However, how would you raise that rear corner? Yes, moving the front spring mount down from its present position would move the body higher, but, the extent needed to move the mount is amplified by the distance from the axel to the mount and would become substantial even to effect a 3/8" change.

I appreciate that this is not a major issue and the small change I am looking for could be accomplished by simply moving the fender. However, I would like to keep the focus on suspension changes and would appreciate your suggestions.

All the best,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

 

[EV2239]

springs sag over time and wings may not be identical. Fit a couple of new rear springs and shocks and it'll fee like a new car. You may find that when the cars were new, the driver's side spring had a slightly higher poundage.

 

[GregW]

These should fit the bill.

 

[RAC68]

Thanks for your responses. Greg, are those front or rear suspension units?

I know the measurements I am providing are not that large but they are being primarily used as an example. The issue is how can we raise/adjust the rear suspension per side to effect body height. Keep in mind that my 1964 Healey is a Mk III Phase 1 and shares the suspension with all previous Big Healeys.

There was virtually no frame height change when exchanging springs. Side-to-side frame height differs less then 1/8" (per picture above) at 6 13/16" and 6 15/16 and is maintained after exchanging the springs. My conclusion, spring sag is not an issue. Also, a while back I added an extra 2nd leaf to my original rear spring sets for stiffening with a small increase in rear body height. This extra leaf was added because my Mark 3 is equipped with the resonator and the extra leaf substantially reduced its collision with the ground on even slight dips (and my driveway). Although this addition did increase height on both sides, the left/drivers side still maintained the body height difference prior to the leaf addition validating that spring sag was the issue.

So, how do I/we change rear body height for side-to-side? Is the addition of a spacer somewhere that will raise the body in small increments? Are there other relatively small adjustments or additions I can make to increase body height?

When posting the question to Greg, I began to wonder if the height change could not be addressed by addressing the height of the opposite front suspension. Would reducing the height of the right front increase the height of the rear left? If so, is this the easiest approach and what would be the extent of change required by dealing with the front suspension to change the back?

I appreciate that this simple request is becoming more complex then originally thought. Again, thanks to all for responding and look forward to any and all ideas.
Ray(64BJ8P1)

 

[GregW]

Those are front struts. The important thing in that photo is the adjustable preload. That is the red threaded collar next to the coil spring.

 

[British_Recovery]

Ray,
I'd change the front ONLY if there was a problem with the front.
Bob

 

[RAC68]

Hi Greg,

I see your point and it tracks with an issue experienced a few years ago when I had to address a problem with the mounting on my right front shock tower. Although I am not up to changing the front suspension architecture, I will be looking into addressing how altering my right front shock height will affect rear left body height. However, I would still prefer doing something to raise the rear left height but have hit a blank as to how. Also, other then your idea or cutting the top of the tower to remove some height, I am not clear on how I will address lowering my front suspension.

Thank again Greg,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

 

[steveg]

Hi Greg,

I see your point and it tracks with an issue experienced a few years ago when I had to address a problem with the mounting on my right front shock tower. Although I am not up to changing the front suspension architecture, I will be looking into addressing how altering my right front shock height will affect rear left body height. However, I would still prefer doing something to raise the rear left height but have hit a blank as to how. Also, other then your idea or cutting the top of the tower to remove some height, I am not clear on how I will address lowering my front suspension.

Thank again Greg,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

Lowering the front on one side could be as simple as longer bolts and washer stacks as spacers for the spring pan. It would be easy to do experimentally.

 

[HealeyRick]

Looking at your drawing, it looks like your rear outriggers are only different by an 1/8" from side to side. That doesn't seem like a whole lot to me and could easily be influenced by the floor the car was on when measured. If the chassis was that close to level, wouldn't the difference in fender gaps be due to how the body sits on the chassis rather than a fault with the chassis itself? How about taking some measurements along the whole bottom edge of the body on each side and comparing them? I would think that if it was a suspension issue, your entire body should be lower on one side than the other?

 

[RAC68]

Thanks Guys for your thoughts.

Not being able to sleep last knight, I guess my mind was a little hazy. This morning, I realized it would be simple to vary the height at the front right shock tower to test the theory and the extent of the height alteration that would be required for this approach. I say test the theory as although the concept is valid, the rigidity of the present structure could diminish the effect of this approach or even eliminate it. I said easy because it only takes the removal of the wheel and a jack under the tower section of the frame. If the effect and the extent of the change falls within the limits of practicality, I can then approach the issue with a spacer as Steve suggests.

Rick, you are right on as the difference is not really that bad and unnoticed by all so far. I may be getting super critical in my old age.

The approach to just move the fender up 1/8" (I doubt you will notice the missing 1/16") to get the spacing reasonably exact was passed on because of the effort required to loosen, repositioning and fully install the rear fender (including the interior and trunk lining). However, if the other approaches get too involved, it may turn out to be the easiest approach.

Thanks all,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

 

[John Turney]

Spacers between the rear spring and axle on one side or the other, as well as between the spring pan and lower A-arm in front can adjust the weight loading of the chassis. It works better with a stiffer chassis, of course.

 

[bob hughes]

Just as a point of order, have you checked your rear wings(fenders) for symmetry, Just for the fun of it I have just measured the distance from the centreline of the bead at the join of the wing with the shroud, directly above the spinner, to the edge of the wheel arch and there is a 5mm difference on my car, and I know by just looking that there is a difference in the front wings.



Bob

 

[RAC68]

Hi All,

John, reading your comment suggesting a spacer between the spring and axel. Wouldn't that raise the wheel into the well and effectively lower the body?

Bob, you have a good point as the accuracy of body stampings, even when in production, was not as accurate as today. In fact, as I understand, most stamps were not changed throughout 100-6/3000 production. The fenders on my MkIII P1 are original and my measurements were taken from the fender wheel well opening down the center of the spinner to the ground. Since the bottom of the spinner to the ground was adjusted to be the at equal tire pressure, measurements were taken to the bottom of the fame cross member and fender opening just above the spinner.

What is surprising to me is that we are talking about 3/16" difference and (to me) it is obvious. When originally receiving my Healey new, the front passenger fender was 1/2" above the top of the door and no one noticed.


Thank you for your thoughts,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

 

[John Turney]

Hi All,

John, reading your comment suggesting a spacer between the spring and axel. Wouldn't that raise the wheel into the well and effectively lower the body?

...
Ray(64BJ8P1)

Yes, it would. If you lower the passenger side until they are both the same.