John,
The Mobil 1 oil that was specifically designated for gasoline automobile engines with flat tappets is 15W50 and, although others oil designations did have varying but sufficient amounts of ZDDP, they were specifically formulated for Diesels, Turbo Diesels, Motor Cycles with wet and dry clutches, and Racing. In each case, these oils seem to be profiled for a particular environment and not recommended for general automotive use (as in our Healeys). Although I would consider other Mobile 1 (or other brand) oils designed to address non-gasoline automotive environments, I am not knowledgeable or confident enough in the available web data to make an educated decision that would seem to counter the manufacturer.
How did you determine the Mobil 1 5W50 had the proper formulation for our Healey engines?...
Ray,
Oils with an API rating starting with S are for gasoline engines (S stands for "spark). Oils rated for diesels have an API rating starting with C (C stands for compression). The additive packages are formulated and blended to match the type of engine. Specifically, the zddp for diesel engines is designed for high temperature stability and "activation" at higher temperatures. Gasoline engines do not get hot enough to adequately activate "diesel" zddp. During the activation process, the organic parts of the molecule react with the sulfur in the zddp to bond to the metal surface. So, in short, use an oil with an API S* rating.
As for the amount of zddp, there are two ways of telling: zinc and phosphorus are at least 1,200 ppm, or the concentration of zddp is over 1%. The concentration of zinc and phosphorous in the Mobil 1 15W-50 meet the "1,200-rule". Castrol EDGE 5W-50 lists zddp on it's Safety Data Sheet (SDS, formerly MSDS) as 1% to 3%, because they don't want to give away their actual composition. If the zddp concentration is less than 1%, it won't be listed at all. Until recently Castrol GTX 20W-50 used to list zddp on it's SDS. Now that it doesn't, I've dropped it off the recommended list.
Other parts of the additive packages contain detergents and dispersants. These keep parts clean and help the oil carry contaminants away from the metal parts and into the oil pan. Racing engines have less of these because racing engines don't run for long periods between rebuilds. So, racing oils should be avoided, unless you're racing and tearing your engine down at regular intervals. Some oils, like Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 are meant for both uses because Valvoline puts enough detergent in them.
As for motorcycle oils for wet clutch applications, I have just recently heard of them, so I can't say if they would be satisfactory for old Austin engines. They might be good for old Laycock de Normanville overdrives, though.
The question of using 20W-50, 15W-50 or 5W-50 viscosity oil is based on the viscosity at hot and cold temperatures. At 100C, 50 grade has a viscosity of 16.3 to 21.9 cSt (centi-Stokes or mm^2/sec). At 20C (68F), that oil would have a viscosity probably in excess of 500 cSt. Consequently, it doesn't flow as well. Flow is key in preventing wear. Hence the move toward lower cold viscosities. To get multiple viscosities in mineral (dino) oil, they start with low viscosity base oil and add viscosity index improvers (VII) to get the multiple viscosity ratings. Problem is, these VIIs break down under high shear and the 20W-50 oil tends to be come 20W-40, then 20W-30, ..., losing its desired viscosity at operating temperature. The VIIs have been improved over the years, but it's still an issue. With synthetic oil, they start with 50 grade base oil and can modify to molecules so it retains the hot viscosity indefinitely.
Hope that helps.