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TR2/3/3A My Reassembly journey

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If it were me, I’d just out another stud in there. Come up with an interesting story to tell about why it’s there....something like “the car was previously owned by a professional surfer in the 60s....he used to strap his board on the side of the car and used that very stud to do so....

Cheers
Tush
 
Hello Tush

Thanks.

A stud may make a bump in the tonneau cover but a nice shiny round screw head would do.

David

Been watching some of your new U tube videos. The Red wings.
 
I have just got my 3 point seat belts. I know there is some debate about the pro and cons of 3 point belts or belts in TR type cars in general. My feeling is if you have them you can chose to use or not but if you don't have them you are out of luck.

My question is any thoughts on a mounting point for the shoulder belt? I have the suggested positions for the lower mounting points.

David
 
I mounted mine to my roll bar but if you don't have a roll bar most people mount to the top of the wheel well.
Use a big washer of course.

Steve
 
Hello Steve

Thank you.

No roll bar but I have the occasional seat. Seems smaller than I remember.

That was where I was considering. Going to test fit the gas tank cover to see where I have room for the mounting point.

David
 
DavidApp said:
I have just got my 3 point seat belts. I know there is some debate about the pro and cons of 3 point belts or belts in TR type cars in general. My feeling is if you have them you can chose to use or not but if you don't have them you are out of luck.
Click to expand...
Oddly enough, the law in some states is that if you have them, you have to wear them or risk a ticket. But old cars are allowed to not have them.

For 3 point, you need an attachment point that is above your shoulder, so the belt doesn't try to snap your spine in an accident. Since there's nothing there in a TR3, you need a roll bar or similar to provide a mounting point.

But the roll bar should probably tie into the frame, which is awkward and usually requires some extra pieces. "Show bars" that only mount into sheet metal may tear loose in an accident and do more harm than good.
 
Randall is correct. In California if you install belts in a car
that did not come with belts.... now you are required to
always wear the belt.... or be ticketed.
i installed belts in our TR3A so I could take the grandkids
for rides....now we wear belts.

Gil. NoCal
 
David.... I do not have a roll bar.... so just the
2 point lap belts.
In my opinion.... while driving these very small
cars... and the roads plugged with SUV's and
big 4WD pickups... far more important to me
is being super alert to everything 360 degrees.
Than the belts. Just my opinion.

Gil. NoCal
 
With no roll cage as the car was designed and no seat belts I think the idea was for a roll over situation you were hopefully dropped out because you would suffer extreme gravel rash if you were strapped in upside down. Not a pleasant thought.

Graham
 
When I was 19 back in the mid 60's and bought my
first TR3 there was a guy not too far from here who
bought a MGA and put lap belts in it with no roll bar.
When he rolled that car it literally ground his body
to the cockpit level. Made a lasting impression on me...
some 50+ years later I can't forget .
i try and drive very carefully... but being flipped out
still is my option. No doubt a real roll bar properly
installed with 3 point harness... is best option.

Gil. NoCal
 
Safety devices seem to just change your way of departing this life.

You can be impaled by the steering column, ground off to half height or thrown clear. Be Careful.

I read somewhere these days we need to drive these cars like we are on a motorcycle and assume every other vehicle is a danger. The article mentioned that when the LBC were first on the roads they were some of the fastest cars out there. Now almost any SUV is probable faster.

Seat belts have become a habit for me so it seemed like a good idea on the TR. I did appreciate the inherent risks that come with them.

David
 
GilsTR said:
When I was 19 back in the mid 60's and bought my
first TR3 there was a guy not too far from here who
bought a MGA and put lap belts in it with no roll bar.
When he rolled that car it literally ground his body
to the cockpit level. Made a lasting impression on me...
some 50+ years later I can't forget .
i try and drive very carefully... but being flipped out
still is my option. No doubt a real roll bar properly
installed with 3 point harness... is best option.

Gil. NoCal
Click to expand...

I put belts on my TR3A...but never felt safe. This is exactly what worried me. The car is very likely to roll in an accident, so your head lines up to get hit. Or, in a frontal accident, being able to move away from the one piece steering column may come in handy. Or, one of these giant sized pick-ups can roll right over the entire car, also lining your head up.

Every time I run the possibilities, there seem to be more that you stand a better chance of survival by being thrown clear rather than being strapped in. I am not in denial...you'll be in bad shape after getting thrown clear, but at least your head is not the primary contact point. I have not put belts in the TR2.
 
A 2 part question.

Should the capping around the rear of the cockpit (the long piece) go over or under the pieces in front of it, corner pieces?

In Roger Williams book he says the rear capping has 6 lift the dot pillar screws through it. The one that came with my car does not have holes in it for the screws and the way it is bent I do not think I could get it down far enough to drill holes.

Had my VIN inspection so I can get a Tag now.

David
 
The back piece goes over the side pieces on the two cars I've seen. There are not holes in the back cap for lift a dot pins. The cap stays just above the lift a dots unlike the dash where they go through.
Note that if the cap went under the pins it would also cover the rag top strap mounting holes.
 
Hello Steve

Thank you.

Kind of what I was thinking but it is nice to get confirmation that you are thinking straight.

David
 
Having got all the carpet installed I decided I could safely tighten down the steering wheel and install the indicator/horn assembly.

I threaded a piece of locking wire down through the tube in the center of the steering column and attached it to the 4 wires that needed to be threaded through the tube. I had removed 3 of the bullet connectors to reduce the size of the bundle. Put some electrical tape over the join and started pulling. Went well for the first few inches then hung up. Wen I checked the top end I found the fabric/cotton sleeve had bunched up and was stopping any further progress. I pulled it back out slid the sleeve back into position. (Noticed that the wires are twisted not straight). Then slid a bit of heat shrink sleeve over the 4 wires and the first 1" of the sleeve. I also put a bit at the very beginning of the bundle where the pull wire joined to the wires.
It pulled through with out a hitch. So smooth that I managed it single handed.
I now have working indicators and horn.

Did a 20 mile run to check things out. Everything seems to be working well.

David
Interior finished.jpg
Indicator wires.jpg
Indicator wires 2.jpg
 
Heat shrink tubing is great for many obstacles. Congratulations , great job and just in time for the driving season. I would love to see more photos of your finished car. Frank
 
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