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Spitfire My first Spitfire

  • Thread starter Deleted member 17669
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The pin came out at the pump. The weight of the shaft should keep it in the pan, unless you are going in the BAHA 1000. It should not stop you from getting it running, but when you can get the pan gasket, drop it and clean it while you are in there. Be careful with the front bolts, they go in aluminum. If you have a torque wrench be sure to use it.

Wayne
 
So the Spitfire wants to run but the starter is giving me trouble, maybe someone can shed some light on the situation. The triumph turns over and right when its about to start the engine stops but the starter keeps going so its like the starter disengages from the flywheel and keeps turning. Do i need a new starter?
 
I'm going to guess the bendix gear is shot or the flywheel ring gear. When you get the starert off you will be able to see both. Good sharp gears is what you are looking for, if the end is rounded off that is the problem as it's not going engaging in the ring gear. I think you can buy just the bendix, but clean up the armature while it's apart and check the brushes.

Wayne
 
As a footnote to Wayne's post I wanted to post a picture of Bendix teeth. Do not expect the ends of the teeth on the Bendix gear or ring gear to be perfectly square and sharp. Both will have lead in chamfers so the gears will engage when you turn the starter motor over. If the did not have these chamfers the gear teeth could not slip into position and you would have an awful noise with no motor rotation.

For wear you are looking for thinned, chipped teeth that look like they have or will slip out of engagement.

The Bendix pictures below are generic new parts and not unique to Lucas starters. The end profile is typical of new/good parts. The teeth on the ring gear will have similar profiles both in the leading and trailing edge of the tooth.

474174l.jpg
lucas-250x250.jpg

The picture below shows worn Bendix and ring gear teeth.
starter+05a1372853058.jpg

And below is a bad/failed MGB ring gear.
ring_gear.gif
 
Well done Doug, I kept forgetting not all who get involved with these cars has a knowledge of what things look like, good and bad. Thanks for clearing that up.
As a side note, over half the TR6 ring gears I have replaced were installed backwards from the factory. They were having major labor problems in the mid 70's and I think this was a way of getting back. They would work, but were tearing up bendix's.

Wayne
 
As a side note, over half the TR6 ring gears I have replaced were installed backwards from the factory. They were having major labor problems in the mid 70's and I think this was a way of getting back. They would work, but were tearing up bendix's.

I did some digging to track down the original owner of my TR6. A nice woman named Beth, who told me what a great fun little car it had been. The only major work done on it she could remember was some kind of recall (she couldn't remember exactly) for the flywheel. When I pulled it apart I noticed the ring gear was TIG welded on in 4 equally spaced places. I assume Triumphs recall was for the ring gear being put on backwards. But I'm not sure why they would weld it. When I replaced the ring gear ( it had 2 or 3 spots that were bad ) the diameter of the new one was .027" smaller than the flywheel ! I can't see why they would weld it with that kind of tight fit .
 
Got a reco starter from Napa, put it in and tried to start it. Still not running but getting close, its backfiring gas out of the carbs now so guess i need to fiddle with them a bit on Tuesday
 
Backfiring out of the carbs can be an indication for two major and different areas.

If the car is otherwise tuned properly but starved for fuel it may backfire through the carbs due to a lean condition. Make sure the float bowls in the carb have fuel and that the float valves are set right. Also, remove the vacuum piston with mixture needle. Clean the needle and make sure the jet that the needle goes into is clean (spray carb cleaner and lots of flushing). Don't assume that fuel is getting into and through the carb just because it is reaching the carb.

The second condition that can make a backfire out of the carbs is incorrect ignition timing. I don't remember if you have worked on the distributor or not. Regardless, check the static timing of the distributor, that the valves are set correctly, and that you have the plug wires on in the correct order (1-3-4-2 counterclockwise around the cap).
 
Thinking of letting it sit for another 20 years or at least take a break from it for a bit. Its out of my league and I'm over it for now. Never was into working on cars and now wondering why i wanted to give it a go so yeah a rest is needed.
Thanks for all the helpful advise
 
Are there any local friends or car clubs that can help? Hard to pinpoint from a distance. There has to be a car guy close that can come by and give you a hand. Most of us here have learned just like this. Giving up is for losers. You don't seem to fit that category. After all, all cars are trouble shooted in proceedures, Spitfires are not special when working on them. British cars up to the 80's were made for the common Brit to work on. Cuba has no outlet for their 50's cars to get parts and they keep them running with no special schooling. I have 49 yrs experience without schooling. Don't give up. Get a manual (Haynes)if anything and keep going. Just like having a kid, you want to throw them away sometimes, but you make it in the end.
 
Haven't completely given up, just need a rest for how ever long it takes me to get interested again.
 
Smart move. Always best to step away for a bit.

The usual suspects will be here to help when you're ready to jump back in!

:cheers:
Mickey
 
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