TR6 My 1969 TR6- the Crypt Car

[Brosky]

OK, good replies, where's Dale?

 

[DNK]

I think he said he was fishing this morning.

 

[Tinster]

So what?


BTW, is your choke completely dis-engaged when the choke knob is pushed in(off position)? You may think it is closed but it may be partially open!

<span style="color: #006600">Frank,

How would I know if the choke is fully off?
The rpms drop from 1200 to 800 when I push in the
choke button.

As to the front carb: Yes indeed, I had both carb tops off last
week to inspect the diaphrams. Both were good.

Could I somehow messed up the piston when I put the carb top back on??

Thanks as lways,

dale </span>

 

[dklawson]

It's unlikely you did any damage removing and re-installing the carb top. You did note that the diaphragm has a little keying tooth for it's position and put it back in the same place didn't you?

Assuming you put the diaphragm back in the right place, are the jets centered? I haven't followed all the threads either Dale so forgive what may be a repeat question. Did you balance the air flow at idle?

 

[Tinster]

Impossible to balance carbs.

The front carb is not sucking air.
The idle screw has no effect whatsoever.
The throttle on the front carb has no
effect either. The piston does not move.

When I place the balance tool on the rear carb,
the engine dies instantly. The rear carbs reacts
instantly to blibs of the throttle-vroom! The
piston moved freely.

is 1500 miles use about normal for TR6 carbs to need
professional rebuilding? Jeff Palya did mine.

baffled

d

 

[Brosky]

Dale,

The carbs do not need to be rebuilt and this is not normal. Below is a picture of the piston. Did you have it out when you took the tops off of the carbs?

 

[Tinster]

Yes, Paul- I had both out to
check the diaphrams for leaks.

But not in pieces. As the single unit you show
in your left photo. My needles are adjusted
from the dashpot top. Ben made the mixture settings
and Ben set up my carbs for me.

I observed this afternoon, that when I pull the choke
wires full out, there is a knuckle on that spring loaded
piece that comes very close to an adjustment screw on
the bottom tab of the idle arm.

Neither of my choke tabs come into contact with these
screws on the idle tab. It seems to me these should.

PS- sick in bed all day - no fishing!!

thanks,
dale

 

[Brosky]

OK, the reason that I asked is that the piston will stick if the needle isn't inserted into the jet properly. Take it back out and let's see what you've got. You can then check the movement while the top is off and make sure it goes up and down freely at that time.

I'm betting on a bent needle.

 

[Tinster]

Thanks Paul,

I'll check it in the AM when it's light outside.

d

 

[DNK]

Dale- Sleep in , not that important. Get well my friend!

 

[Tinster]

Dale- Sleep in , not that important. Get well my friend!

Thanks Don!! Friday was too much day and not enough naps. Sat was sleep
day. Bright and early today, feeling great.

It appears my non-functional front carb is another DPO blunder.
Dale Present Owner (DPO) failed to notice the centering tab on the
carb diaphram. He also totally missed the carb cyclinder was
re-installed 180* out of proper location.

I ain't a mechanic here, but I guessing the piston was never "stuck"
while the engine was running. My guess is the intake manifold was
sucking (vacuum)against the side of the piston with no holes.
I noticed this morning the piston slid upward easily with the engine off.

I hope I did no damage. A quick warm up, drove 40 feet and tried to
balance carbs. One other balance attempt after I had removed the carb pistons and put one back wrong..

I'll put it back together properly and see if there is a difference.

dale

 

[Brosky]

It should be fine now. This is a learning experience for all, so don't feel too bad. I've done worse over the years.

 

[Tinster]

Wow!!

What a difference having the carb piston installed
correctly makes. The front carb now Vrooms just
like the rear carb.

The engine still requires no choke to start and the
exhaust smells very rich. I'll clean the sooty plugs
and see if that changes things.

Also, my choke cold start valves may not be closed
all the way. I don't know how to check them.

I'm really hoping for a test drive around the hood today.

d

 

[Brosky]

Dale,

Buckeye Triumph out of Ohio has a very easy to follow, detailed explanation from beginning to end of disassembly, overhaul, rebuild and adjusting. That's where I got the picture for you above. I thought that I had emailed them to you in the past, but I will do so now in pdf format. That will explain any and all required adjustments in a methodical and easy to follow manner.

Next stop is fixing that horrible looking flexible coupling mess.

 

[Tinster]

You did Paul!

And I have it in a binder.
My problem with the 3 sections is I don't know
enough about carbs to know the parts being discussed.

For instance: "Vent valves" ?????????????????
For instance: I think my carbs are late 1970 with
adjustable needles thru the dashpot.

Ben has both carbs connected with a piece of rubber hose
on the right top side of each carb. Do I remove this hose
when I balance the carbs?

I left the hose in-place this morning when I balanced them.
Also, I had the retard/advance pipes removed when I balanced the carbs.

thanks,

d

 

[DrEntropy]

You did plug off the vacuum ports at the carbs as you did this, yes?

 

[Tinster]

You did plug off the vacuum ports at the carbs as you did this, yes?

darn!! Doc,

Will I ever got this timing procedure correct?

1. I unplugged both pipes on my twin dizzy ears and set them aside.
2. I plugged up the nipples on both dizzy ears
3. I connnected my vacuum gauge to the intake manifold nipple( - 20 )
4. I disconnected the carb throttle linkage.
5. The rubber hose connnecting the carbs remained in place

6. I started the car easily without using the choke.

7. At reaching 160 warm temp, I rotated the dizzy until I
had 10* advance. I checked each wire for fire. All good.

8. I fiddled with the idle screws to get 850 rpm and balance bubble
up halfway for both.

9. I installed 2 new plugs gapped to .025, 2 cleaned existing gapped
to .025 and 2 sooty existing gapped at .025

10 I reinstalled all the various hoses and pipe.

11. I put my carb mixture tool into the dashpot top, locked it inplace
and counter-rotated the hex tool about 30 degree per carb to lean out misture.

12. I now have the carb linkage off and am trying to straighten the bent links flat.

Please review and call out any blunders!!

thanks,

dale

 

[DrEntropy]

Looking from the top, turning the hex tool counter-clockwise will <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="color: #FF0000">LEAN</span></span> the mix. And 30* is WAAAY too much. The things are sensitive to TINY increments of change. 10* at a time is more appropriate.


<span style="font-style: italic">EDITED: To address the idiocy of my ~WRONG~ instruction... Highly embarassed!</span> :blush:

 

[Tinster]

Looking from the top, turning the hex tool counter-clockwise will ENRICH the mix. And 30* is WAAAY too much. The things are sensitive to TINY increments of change. 10* at a time is more appropriate.

Thanks for heads up Doc.

How about the rest of the stuff I did?
At no yime where the tiny black vacuum pipes
from the carbs ever plugged. I did all my testing
and setting with those two little pipes open.

thanks,

d

 

[Brosky]

Plugging the advance and retard unit on the distributor does NO good. You must plug the lines going to each to stop two big vacuum leaks when doing this setup.

And to balance the carbs, the linkage should be loose so that they can be adjusted independently of one another.

Take it slow and easy..................you're getting there.