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Motor Kaput

I am basically cheap. I would have gone for a top end rebuild. Possibly new valve guides but at the least new seals just those two fixes would go a long way toward helping your oil usage and smoke problem for a small fraction $$$ of the previous suggestions

Ditto
 
I am basically cheap. I would have gone for a top end rebuild. Possibly new valve guides but at the least new seals just those two fixes would go a long way toward helping your oil usage and smoke problem for a small fraction $$$ of the previous suggestions
In the cases where that is sufficient, good. However it usually just shows up the shortcomings of the piston-ring package__now that the top-end seals so well__and you wind up having to go right back into the engine.

If the cylinder bores and pistons (ring lands, primarily) still fall within specs__even if only marginally so__adding a new set of piston rings & rod bearings is a better economic choice, and can all be done without removing the engine from the car.

My personal opinion though, if you're going to go that far, why stop short of replacing the main bearing shells and timing chain?
 
Randy, I see where you're coming from but on this (and many other forums) there seems to be an uncontrollable desire to spend other peoples money. Evey fix includes "while you in there why don't you do -----". I have no quarrel with doing the job right, whatever it is, but many times it is gross overkill. Not all of us have deep pockets.

Not in many years have I heard of a big Healey being used as a daily driver. I am sure most are part of a 2,3,or 4 car "fleet" and if I may speak generally, I would guess most are not driven more than a token number of miles, 1 to 2 thousand per year would be a lot. Does a car used that much NEED to be perfect ?
 
... Not in many years have I heard of a big Healey being used as a daily driver. I am sure most are part of a 2,3,or 4 car "fleet" and if I may speak generally, I would guess most are not driven more than a token number of miles, 1 to 2 thousand per year would be a lot. Does a car used that much NEED to be perfect ?

I put 4,850 miles on my BJ8 on one road trip last year; and another 1,000 or so just puttin' around. My car's far from perfect at nearly 200K miles total, but I want/need it to be reliable and strong when I go places like this:

IMG_0493.jpg

The BN2/100M doesn't get driven nearly as much, but it's not the luxo-barge the BJ8 is.
 
Randy, I see where you're coming from but on this (and many other forums) there seems to be an uncontrollable desire to spend other peoples money. Evey fix includes "while you in there why don't you do -----". I have no quarrel with doing the job right, whatever it is, but many times it is gross overkill. Not all of us have deep pockets.


What am I missing?
I read this forum almost every day. I cannot recall any attempts "to spend other peoples money".
Even membership dues for britishcarforum.com are optional.
Since I am not an auto mechanic or an engineer, I really appreciate the wisdom shared here.
I never would have rebuilt my spare motor without advice from many who relate their experiences and offer suggestions.
At the end of the day, we each need to decide what is really important for ourselves, and proceed with confidence.
I think there is actually a lot of respect for other viewpoints expressed.
Now if it would just stop snowing here in Michigan, I'll try to awaken my tricarb.
Regards.
Douglas
 
Dougie - What rpm is your crank good for? Do you have a special crank?

Did you say "special crank".....Why yes, I do have a special designed billet steel crank good to 8500 RPM, but I hope not to go there.

Billet Crank 1.jpg
Billet Crank 2.jpg
Billet Crank 3.jpg
 
Did you say "special crank".....Why yes, I do have a special designed billet steel crank good to 8500 RPM, but I hope not to go there.

View attachment 53237
Yikes, that's gorgeous! I expect it cost more than my Healey's purchase price too ($4200, freshly restored in 1978).

Just for the sake of conversation, and based on the circle of racers you run with, what's a stock crank good for; assuming all internals are properly balanced, and the valves don't float?
 
A stock crank in a well balanced race motor is safe to 6500 rpm, it will take a little more but not for long.:livid::sorrow:
 
A stock crank in a well balanced race motor is safe to 6500 rpm, it will take a little more but not for long.:livid::sorrow:
Thanks, my MSD is set somewhere around 5600-5800, but it only sees bursts and rarely anything sustained above 4k. Fingers crossed...
 
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