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TR2/3/3A Moss Steering Rack Conversion

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Well I went with the Moss steering rack, 3/8" belt and pulley conversion, a Wizard radiator with integrated fan, Koni shocks, stiff springs and of course all the consumable suspension parts. :greedy_dollars: Took a while and only smashed one finger nail off. The result is outstanding. The car handles so much better, no longer hunts, no more clunking noises (from up front that is), no wash boarding and I haven't detected any bump steering, but I haven't driven it properly hard yet. I did keep all of the original parts in case the next care taker wants to go that route. My car is in great shape for never having been never been restored and being garaged for the 25 years I've owned it here in Reno, NV. Having read through CJD's comprehensive TR2 restoration, I know I don't have that skill set so some day someone will get to be care taker of my survivor TR3 but not for a few years! :encouragement:
 
Hi all, I have recently bought a Moss R&P conversion and have been trying to install it. I have reversed the steering arms as instructed and fitted the spacer when reinstalling the steering arms but the only way I can get the steering arm to sit back in position would be to bore out the mounting holes which I am not willing to do. In the current position the wheels are pointing outward in opposite directions as the steering rack thread is too long and I can't wind the tie rod on anywhere near far enough to get any sort of wheel alignment.

I came across this thread looking for some one with previous knowledge. Can anyone offer a suggestion?
 
I cant help with the Moss conversion as i went with the TR Bitz or Bastuck rack and it went on without a hitch no bump steer and i modified a mini indicator switch fitted under the wheel. The rack is a Mini rack in my case out of a left hand drive mounted upside down for right hand drive.

Sounds like you may have got it wrong somwhere so i would get onto Moss for advise.

Graham
P1010119.jpg
 
Hi Graham

thanks for the photo, sorry for the long time for the reply but have been overseas. I managed to work out that I must have inadvertently swapped the steering arms over when I had stripped the suspension down previously so the extended boss was on the wrong side when I swapped it over again. I haven't yet got it all together but it certainly looks a bit better than it did previously.

I see you are in WA, did you get an engineering certificate for the conversion?
 
Luke Skywalker posted 5/18/2017
< I waited a while to respond because I was just completing the final tuning of my TR3 original steering box. Just completed a updated restoration on the car where I did some more tweaking on my box. Going back 8+ years ago (I've had the 3 since 1976) i was asking the same question you are asking. Thanks to some on the Forum and particularly Randal I stuck with the original box (like I wanted to) and with a local LBC parts supplier i was able to source a really good worm gear along with new bushings, better shimming and a new pin I couldn't believe how good the TR3 steering really could be. After the final tweaking tonight and a good 30+ mile drive my steering is better then ever. I would not even consider a RP conversion now and with the proper ride quality and for a fraction of the price of a swap. Good luck on whatever you decide.>

Hoping for a connection with such an old post. I had a TR3B in the 70s and the steering was perfect. I just acquired another and steering is awful. I've been tinkering with this one and got a slight improvement up to real bad, so Ive been looking at R&P kits when I came across this post. Do you suppose there is another worm gear along with new bushings, better shimming and a new pin anywhere on the planet? Id rather not change the fan and control head. I've heard this several times in the past few weeks.
 
Moss shows the worm (only) in stock, as well as the peg. TRF shows the bush and shims as available. Likely they have the gaskets and seal as well (but I didn't bother looking them up).

Installing the worm on the shaft looks to be a bit tricky, the end of the shaft is peened over and will need to be unrolled carefully then peened again on the new worm. Might be worth contacting a professional, like Mark Macy (Macy's Garage) for that step.
 
TR3driver.
Yes, I see the parts now at Moss. I have shims and gaskets already from trying to adjust using previous posts and manuals. I was there a few days ago (Moss) and could swear the part was NA. However this TR has caused me to swear several times, and has not helped the outcome....


Jim 62 TR3B
 
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