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T-Series MGTF "Upgrades"

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BillBaker

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MGTF "Upgrades"

Have owned my TF for 35 years. "Restored" it in 1967, and now needs a total ground up. Recently retired so getting ready to do it right this time.
Did a Moss 4.55 conversion with the help of the Southeast Register in Atlanta.

My question is: does anyone know of a list of those neat "upgrades" that have been developed through the years, ie. neg grd, clutch linkage improvement, use of MGB radiator fan, etc. I would like to incorporate them this time around.

Thanks,

BB
 
Re: MGTF "Upgrades"

Just a thought, but if you change it from original, would it lose value?? But then again, is the drivability worth it? Somebody that knows more than me will come along soon!!
grin.gif
 
Re: MGTF "Upgrades"

I suppose the question of originality is there, but two things to consider are: is the car going to be shown at concourse events, where originality and having all the screw heads lined up a major issue? Also, are modifications reversible? IE-using an MGB fan with more blades might be sensible, as it's comparitavely easy to put the old fan back on. Same with free flow air filters, bolt on performance widgets (up to and including superchargers, I suppose), and even custom upholstery. Think twice about molding in the fenders or frenching the headlights, though.
In many cases, sensible period (or period styled) upgrades can enhance the value of a car. Factory performance upgrades like stage two tuning kits are always desirable. Cutting up a perfectly good chassis and firewall to slot in a small block Chevy for extra passing lane power may not. YMMV
-William
 
Re: MGTF "Upgrades"

believe it or not my friends father is in the process of restoring a td (what year is beyond me) and along the restoration he is fitting it with a small block chevy engine. he also has a chrome bumper b that he has molded the headlight bumps into the hood and the new headlight placement is in the grille. we call him the isemann coachworks
 
Re: MGTF "Upgrades"

ill try and get one. just so you know its not quite finished....in primer....no interior. but the grunt work is done.
 
Re: MGTF "Upgrades"

Changes to the coachwork exterior and interior trim and dash instruments should be avoided. For driveability and reliability, I would recommend a replacement alternator,(self contained regulator) and a solid state ignition system for a start. A later model Lucas alternator and a Pektronic ignition system would be one of the easier ways to go about this but there are several choices. Unless the TF has had a cooling problem I would not add electric cooling fans. If you want to do this then the alternator swapis mandatory. Best regards,
 
Re: MGTF "Upgrades"

Aloha Bill,

I'm an gathering parts to repair/rebuild the body tub on my TF. I also have a MGA rearend that I'm planning to use as parts to lower the rearend ratio to 4.3. I'd be interested in hearing from you how your change in ratio worked out.

Depending on how far you intend to dismantle the car here are some things I would suggest you consider.
1 Rebuild the cylinder head for unleaded fuel with stellite valves.
2 Replace the front and rear crankshaft seals with modern lip seals (Moss has these).
3 Convert to a spin on oil filter with a back flow preventer. This gives instant oil pressure on engine start up by keeping upper engine oil from draining to the oil pan when the engine is not running.
4 Replace suspensions bushings with polyurethane bushings. These do not deform or perish like the rubber ones.
5
 
Re: MGTF "Upgrades"

My fat finger sent a reply before I was done.
5 Add a front sway bar if you don't have one.
6 Convert to radial tires if you have not already. the greatly inprove handling and the ride. A meteric radial 165R15 is a very close match to a bia ply 6.00 x 15 tire.
7 Have the radiator boiled out and tested. If necessary have it recored. The original radiator and fan should be more than capable of keeping the engine cool.
8 Replace the exhaust system with a stainless steel system.
9 Use heat sheild material under the carpets on the floor boards, front bulkhead and gearbox tunnel. This will keep you a little cooler and reduce some noise.

All these keep the car very original.

If you need a new gearbox, you might also consider a 5 speed gearbox conversion. These are available, but cost about $2500 to $3000 for the kit.

Good luck and let us know what you decide.

Safety Fast,
Dave
 
Re: MGTF "Upgrades"

Dave, thanks for the reply. I'm with you on your items 1,2,4,6,7,8,9. #3 I bought a spin on oil filter adapter from Moss, does it have the back flow preventer in it? #5 Sway bar, haven't heard about this one, do you have any details on it?

The ring and pinion conversion went well, but it's not an easy process. Removing and replacing the bearing races can be difficult. And the placment of the pinion gear came down to a trial and error process of .0001 shim stock. I'm sure it will be worth the effort though.

I have an improvement to the clutch linkage, (provides a smoother and better fill to the pedal) no major physical changes required, if you are interested.

Also, do you have a pattern for a TF heat shield between the carbs and manifold. It's hot here in Florida and I need to prvent vapor lock as much as possible.

Thanks again for your great advise.

Bill
 
Re: MGTF "Upgrades"

Aloha Bill,

I should have explained further that the back flow preventer is in the spin on filter. I am using a Fram 3600. If you can see a black rubber diaphram through the slots as you look at the bottom of the filter that is the back flow preventer.

The sway bar I have came with my car when I bought it back in '72. Abindon Spares at www.abindonspares.com have one in their tools and accessories section.

I lived in Jacksonville '76 & '77 and it does get hotter their than here in Hawaii. I do not have a heat sheild for the carbs, however I have used an heat sheild material over my neoprene fuel line in the engine compartment. I bought it from J C Whitney, but you can probably get it from any autp parts store. If you still have the long float bowl overflow pipes, this can be cause of vapor lock. The tend to get blocked at the end with road grime, not allowing the bowl to vent properly. I cut mine of about level with the bottom of the bowl and haven't had a vapor lock problem since.

I would appreciate details about the clutch linkage improvements.

Another minor thing, Halogen headlights and tail lights are brighter than the standard ones.

Safety Fast,
Dave
 
Re: MGTF "Upgrades"

Thanks for the additional info. For the clutch linkage info go to oconnorclassics.com/MISC/tclutch.htm

Bill
 
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