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Megajolt ignition on A-series

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BuggerAll

Jedi Hopeful
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Well, since I'm an inveterate tinkerer who's never happy except when solving problems and/or creating new ones formyself, I've decided to fit a Megajolt distributorless ignition to the old BE (1312cc, Kent 266, 1.5:1 rockers, LCB header, SU HIF 44, current ignition is a Flamethrower/Pertronix distributor). So far I've done the following:
sourced the required Ford EDIS module and coil pack from a local scrapyard - off an 1990's 4-cyl Escort. ($40)
sourced the Megajolt Lite Jr. module from Autosport labs (about $160)
sourced the nicely made crank trigger sensor mount, sensor and trigger wheel from Specialty Components in the UK (about $250, delivery anticipated any day)
downloaded the programming software from the Autosport site
consulted ignition maps available on the Autosport site and on various British Mini forums to use as baselines.
Question to BCF: has anyone ever installed the Megajolt? If so, any words of advice, any pitfalls or problems encountered and solutions enacted?
thanks -
 
No experience, but I'm interested in the project.
 
I'm currently running Megasquirt with EI control on a 1275 with turbocharger. I locked down the distributor advance and used a Crane Cams optical trigger to signal the Megasquirt. The EFI and EI work perfectly. I'm using an ignition map from a friend of Donn(on this list). It took a few months of refining the ignition map, but the results are well worth it. I drove Bugsy equipped as above to LotO from California. Over 4K miles without touching anything under the bonnet. I used the distributor trigger instead of the VR sensor due to the expense of the parts (as you noticed) and the worries about the VR sensor's sensitivity to vibration and need for a very tight and precise mounting. Some will tell you that a locked down dizzy can't cover the range from 5deg to 50deg advance that may potentially be the extremes of a series-A ignition table. They are simply wrong. Good luck with the project and expect success!!

It can be done because it HAS been done.

Glen Byrns
 
I am running a very similar set up to Glen's. The worst problem I have had with my ignition set up occurred when I hit a rail crossing a bit too fast causing my dizzy cap to pop off which in turn broke my rotor when it hit the side of the dizzy cap.

First and only time my car has been towed. (Knock on a tr6 dash)


So as long as you avoid speeding over railroad crossings, I think you will be fine. :wink:
 
Morris said:
So as long as you avoid speeding over railroad crossings, I think you will be fine. :wink:
Click to expand...

Unless there's a train coming... If so, speed, and take your chances with the cap & rotor! :laugh:
 
Does anyone know of a source for a blanking plug for the removed Distributor? I will be removing my dist. and would like to mount my coilpack in it's place. I have a Ford trigger wheel mounted to my harmonic damper with an adaptor plate, but still need to make a bracket to hold the VR sensor.
 
I need some help interpolating that table. The y-axis is degrees BTDC. What is the x-axis? And what is "n?"
 
Westfield_XI said:
Does anyone know of a source for a blanking plug for the removed Distributor? I will be removing my dist. and would like to mount my coilpack in it's place. I have a Ford trigger wheel mounted to my harmonic damper with an adaptor plate, but still need to make a bracket to hold the VR sensor.
Click to expand...

We run electromotive crankfre ignitions on the SCCA racing Spridgets, alot of folks make thier own distributor plugs, the cheapest easiest one you can do is just use the stock distributor base moutning piece and plug the hole, I seen guys just put a bolt in them big enough to cover the hole and mig weld them [censored], you can get alot fanicier than that if you have a lathe or a buddy with a lathe, but it a quick easy fix, I dodn't know of anyone that commercially sell a blanking palte, well maybe Huffaker, but it would be a simple machining project.
 
Don't forget to take out the gear and shaft.
 
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