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Making a manifold/carb heat shield - any suggestions?

MGNoir

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I'm eying my so-so heat shield (and the large crack in it) and contemplating making a new one out of stainless.

Any advice on how to set up that top bit that holds the throttle cable? I wondered about cutting the top part off the original and adding it to the new one.
 

Jim_Gruber

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They are available in stainless from Ashley Hinton. Search on E-Bay for Ashley Hinton and you will likely find one advertised. Top quality parts he makes.
 
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MGNoir

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Oh I'm sure I can buy one :smile:, but this is a time vs money vs creativity vs access to metal shop at work deal. I've already created a few stainless replacements for other, much simpler things (like that little bracket that goes up and provides said heat shield support).

The challenge is that little offset it makes at the top where the cable is supported - which looks stamped out in mine.
 
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MGNoir

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So basically here's the piece...

heatshield.png
All of it I can make w/o issue, except for that little part with the red around it. Specifically it's got a kind of indent to it. Creating that indent is the hard part.
 

Rut

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I don't think that indent serves any purpose other than adding strength to the area. These things are notorious for cracking due to stress and vibration. I always thought it interesting that they went to great lengths to create a heat shield and then bolted it to the exhaust manifold.
Rut
 

Pythias

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I thought that stainless was a no-no due to its heat retention properties.... ?
 

nomad

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MGB's had, what I suppose was, asbestos on the back of theirs. Wondering what would be a good substitute for that now.

As to the piece that you can't fabricate, I imagine you could cut it out and rivet it to the stainless. That should add even a little more strength.

Kurt.
 

Spridget64SC

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Suggestion:
Center drill a 1/4" bolt. Drill a little "cup" into the head of the bolt to receive the end of the throttle cable. Use two nuts to hold into the lip of the heat shield you bend over/attach. The bolt length above and below the bend and be used to help adjust throttle cable slack. This method has also been used to substitue for idle adjust screws. A 5/16" bolt can be used instead of the 1/4" if more "meat" is desired in the component. Can be made with a stainless bolt to match the heat shield.

Mike
 

Griz

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Stainless is more prone to vibration cracking than mild steel. If you go with stainless go with thicker gauge material. Also, Nomad, you can use 1/4" backer board (used to line shower walls before tile is applied) from the usual home hardware stores as a replacement for asbestos. I used it for the heat shields on my BJ7.

Griz
 
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MGNoir

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Good suggestions all. I like the idea of drilling out a bolt and putting it up there. Not just a handy way to make the part but adjustable to boot.

And good to know about the vibration crack issues. My current (not stainless) one has a crack in the middle perhaps from that.

My real motivation here is to cut back on rust and such. My poor Midget sat idle for about 4 years outside and a lot of stuff shows it. Not like "rusted lump" level but more, "I bet this used to look really nice" level.
 

Jim_Gruber

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Ashley has this done already. Don't reinvent the wheel go get out and drive. Driving these cars is more fun than constant tinkering although I love the problem solving challenges I have more fun top down and driving.
 
G

Guest

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Ashley has this done already. Don't reinvent the wheel go get out and drive. Driving these cars is more fun than constant tinkering although I love the problem solving challenges I have more fun top down and driving.


If he aint got it fixed by now he aint worried about road time.
 
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MGNoir

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I cleaned up and painted the existing one with a silver/gray manifold paint - looks great. Some of us don't have deep pockets to just buy all the shiny stuff, but we have access to raw materials and tools to make 'em. Hence my interest in making.
 
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