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AweMan
Jedi Knight
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Your typical 110 V M.I.G. Welder will weld aluminum. These welders use what is typically called the “Short Arc” welding process.
A brief definition:
That is to say, the filler wire comes into contact with the material to be welded creating a short between the welding wire and the weld. This creates the amperage to melt the filler wire. To weld Aluminum with any M.I.G. welder there are several things necessary.
Straight Argon gas is required, a C.F.M. of about 15.
The second thing is you DO NOT want to use the same torch liner as you have been using for Steel. The steel liner “Scrubs” off small particles of the steel wire during use and WILL contaminate your aluminum weld. A Teflon liner is recommended for Aluminum. The wire drive roller should also be changed to a roller designed for Aluminum wire; typically, they are a serrated roller {not always}.
A new contact tip should also be used, for the same reason you changed liners {contamination}
Welding Aluminum
First, you will need to remove any oxides off of the immediate weld area including the edges of the two pieces of material to be joined by either sanding or filing { Bright and shiny}
A suitable heat sink can be used on thin material {Copper or brass is ideal}
Thick material {Over 3/8} should be preheated to a temperature of approximately 350 – 400 degrees before attempting welding.
You will use the same technique you use for steel welding.
One thing to keep in mind about the “SHORT ARC” process is this process is not recommended for anything that requires structural integrity IE. Auto frames or anything that will be required to bear great stress loads.
Keep in mind that preparation, fit up and cleaning is the key to achieving a good quality weld no matter what material type you are attempting to weld.
Purging : where purging {Typically called “Back Up Gas”} is necessary for steel and stainless steel welding During the M.I.G. and T.I.G. Processes , On Aluminum purging is NOT necessary. Purging is a difficult thing to achieve, creating a backup plate out of copper with a gas channel to protect the backside of the weld, often cumbersome and difficult to place where it is needed. Purging is not as critical on mild steel as it is on hardened steel or stainless steel. Although keep in mind that to attain the absolute best quality weld possible on all types of steel, nickel, titanium, chrome molly tubing ECT. Purging is essential And should be used where ever possible.
Here are a couple of tips to help you suceede
Try to keep your torch { M.I.G. gun and hose} as straight as possible. As you know Aluminum is soft and prone to kinking, so the straighter you keep your torch the better. If you experiance what welders call "Brids Nesting" {wire bunching up at the drive roller} there are three things that cause this condition, primarily a dirty {clogged} contact tip. The use of anti spatter spray or dip is a good way to minimise "Brids Nesting" due to clogged/ dirty contact tips. Contact tips can be cleaned and reused, use an Oxy/Acetylene torch tip cleaner to remove any spatter in the contact tip. Be sure to use the correct size for the tip you are cleaning. The second thing is a coiled or kinked torch. Keeping the torch liner as straight as possible will minimise any problems. Last but not least you have the tension on your drive roller adjusted to tightly, especially with serrated drive rollers these rollers if adjusted to tight will abrade tiny pieces of aluminum off of the welding wire and it becomes logged inside of the torch liner causing a restriction eventualy resulting in the seizing of the wire which then will bunch up or "Birds Nest" at the drive roller.
I hope you find this article useful.
Kerry
AweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeMannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn Why me! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cry.gif
A brief definition:
That is to say, the filler wire comes into contact with the material to be welded creating a short between the welding wire and the weld. This creates the amperage to melt the filler wire. To weld Aluminum with any M.I.G. welder there are several things necessary.
Straight Argon gas is required, a C.F.M. of about 15.
The second thing is you DO NOT want to use the same torch liner as you have been using for Steel. The steel liner “Scrubs” off small particles of the steel wire during use and WILL contaminate your aluminum weld. A Teflon liner is recommended for Aluminum. The wire drive roller should also be changed to a roller designed for Aluminum wire; typically, they are a serrated roller {not always}.
A new contact tip should also be used, for the same reason you changed liners {contamination}
Welding Aluminum
First, you will need to remove any oxides off of the immediate weld area including the edges of the two pieces of material to be joined by either sanding or filing { Bright and shiny}
A suitable heat sink can be used on thin material {Copper or brass is ideal}
Thick material {Over 3/8} should be preheated to a temperature of approximately 350 – 400 degrees before attempting welding.
You will use the same technique you use for steel welding.
One thing to keep in mind about the “SHORT ARC” process is this process is not recommended for anything that requires structural integrity IE. Auto frames or anything that will be required to bear great stress loads.
Keep in mind that preparation, fit up and cleaning is the key to achieving a good quality weld no matter what material type you are attempting to weld.
Purging : where purging {Typically called “Back Up Gas”} is necessary for steel and stainless steel welding During the M.I.G. and T.I.G. Processes , On Aluminum purging is NOT necessary. Purging is a difficult thing to achieve, creating a backup plate out of copper with a gas channel to protect the backside of the weld, often cumbersome and difficult to place where it is needed. Purging is not as critical on mild steel as it is on hardened steel or stainless steel. Although keep in mind that to attain the absolute best quality weld possible on all types of steel, nickel, titanium, chrome molly tubing ECT. Purging is essential And should be used where ever possible.
Here are a couple of tips to help you suceede
Try to keep your torch { M.I.G. gun and hose} as straight as possible. As you know Aluminum is soft and prone to kinking, so the straighter you keep your torch the better. If you experiance what welders call "Brids Nesting" {wire bunching up at the drive roller} there are three things that cause this condition, primarily a dirty {clogged} contact tip. The use of anti spatter spray or dip is a good way to minimise "Brids Nesting" due to clogged/ dirty contact tips. Contact tips can be cleaned and reused, use an Oxy/Acetylene torch tip cleaner to remove any spatter in the contact tip. Be sure to use the correct size for the tip you are cleaning. The second thing is a coiled or kinked torch. Keeping the torch liner as straight as possible will minimise any problems. Last but not least you have the tension on your drive roller adjusted to tightly, especially with serrated drive rollers these rollers if adjusted to tight will abrade tiny pieces of aluminum off of the welding wire and it becomes logged inside of the torch liner causing a restriction eventualy resulting in the seizing of the wire which then will bunch up or "Birds Nest" at the drive roller.
I hope you find this article useful.
Kerry
AweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeMannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn Why me! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cry.gif
