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Lucas 1748 horns

red57

Jedi Knight
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I finally found a working set of horns and have a couple of questions.

Does anyone know what a reasonably correct bronze paint to use is? Preferably rattle can.

Where can I get the electrical pieces to hook them up:

1) The push in sleeve the wire goes in to plug into the horn - I got one and need 3 more

2) The rubber seal - I got one and need one more (I can make the little metal plate but would buy one if they are available).

IMG_3745_LI.jpg

Thanks,
Dave
 
Dave,
I think you will find that Duplicolor E8800957 ā€œSeattle Silver,ā€ is just right.
Lin
 
Thank you Lin. Found and ordered.

FYI, it has a new part number - it is still called Seattle Sliver, and still it refers to the Honda paint code YR94M, but the Dupilcolor part number is now EBHA09577

Thanks again,
Dave
 
Yes, thanks. I'd tried to match colors up but didn't come up with anything that looked right. Napa had this in stock, ill pick it up today along with some slip plate to re-finish the exhaust manifold.
Thanks again!
 
Lin, I think you have a 1960 BT7 like mine, but the horns you have are different from mine, mine having an acorn nut on the front and the wires enter on the back side with bullet terminals. Are the ones you have original?
 
You are correct Rob. The horns on my car are not original. I posted the photo for the sole purpose of showing the color of the paint.
Lin
 
Here are photos of my unrestored horns. The back view shows the slight gold tone better than the front. The blue overspray was from a car respray from 1980. I think I repainted them with Rustoleum Silver Hammertone over a gold base. Couldn't find photos of the restored versions.
 

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Yes Rob, yours are Lucas 1748 like the ones I just found and caused me to start this thread, the ones I'm looking for electrical connection hardware for. I've spent a year looking for a set I could afford because they are hard to find.

The ones Lin shows are Lucas 9H - correct for later Healeys but usually mounted in the engine bay.

This page might help http://ahcso.ca/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/AH_Horn_Specs_Revised_12-07-14.pdf it gives a quite comprehensive breakdown of models/years and Lucas horn type.

Dave

PS, I'm still hoping someone has a suggestions for where to find the electrical connection pieces I need. Thanks
 
Thanks for the info Dave. Speaking of horns, I've always wondered if mine make the correct sound. I've tested both the hi and low horns and they work but the resulting sound is much like a squaw or a goose quack. it's effective as a warning but I wouldn't describe it as pleasant. Do other's horns sound like this?

Well I tried to load a video with the sound but haven't found the secret. I have an Mac. What video file types can I upload. I've seen em, so I know it works.
 
Steve, thanks for the links. I already had the Lucas repair manuals but did not know about British Car Part Restoration and I will be reaching out to see what he can offer.

In the meantime I ordered these as a small, inexpensive gamble for the wire connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YV6B8VL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't know if they will work but the holes in the horns measure about .215 (= about 5.46mm) and these are supposed to be 5.5mm.
Hopefully they will squeeze in to match the holes in the horns???

Thanks,
Dave
 
Follow-up - this post is probably useless info for most but just in case it could help anyone I though I'd show my resolution to the electrical connection issue. This is due largely to waiting for my block & head to come back from the machine shop so I can build the motor, and fear of this virus keeping me trapped and bored at home....

Earlier I posted a link to some brass bullet connectors on Amazon that are 5.5mm diameter - turns out they are just a little too small (.214) and didn't hold very tightly in the holes of the horns. I happened to have some identical connectors that are 6.5mm and I chucked them in the lathe and turned them down to .220 dia. and they were a nice tight hand press fit in the holes. I cut some cap pieces out of 1/8" aluminum & drilled some holes. I also cut some fairly hard rubber pieces about .090 thick and drilled holes. I cut out a few inches of the correct brown w/green and brown w/black color coded wire from my old harness (never throw anything away!) to make short pigtails by soldering a standard bullet on one end and these new brass bullets on the other, pressed the brass bullets in with a dab of silicone to seal the wire to the rubber and now problem is solved. WOW, are they LOUD!!!! - I always had very anemic, sick sounding non-stock horns in the past and these are formidable. Now painted, wired, and mounted on the chassis.

IMG_3758.jpgIMG_3760.jpgIMG_3779.jpgIMG_3780.jpgIMG_3784.jpg

Bob, Thanks for the link to the rubber pieces but since I already came up with a solution, there is no need for me to use up any limited supply of remaining OEM bits.

Thanks to all,
Dave
 
Dave,

The rubber gaskets aren't OEM, but reproduction. Roger Moment asked Michael to take over production of the various bits Roger had been making. I guess Michael needed something to do after retiring from Moss Motors.

Cheers,
Bob
 
Does anyone have a good link to a repair manual for the HF 1748 horns. The link to rhynard.org no longer works.
 
Does anyone have a good link to a repair manual for the HF 1748 horns. The link to rhynard.org no longer works.

Richard - you might want to start a new topic if this pdf doesn't solve your problems:

Tom M.
 

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I found the Lucas Workshop Instructions on the internet for model 1746-47-48 horns, April, 1953. Six pages long that answered my question. Who knew horns could be so complicated. I tried to attach a link to it here but I was unsuccessful.
 
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