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Low oil pressure in new engine

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red57 said:
Bill,

- don't try to force it with tension on because it is real easy to strip the threads out of the aluminum pedestal - voice of experence here.

Dave
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:eeek: <span style="font-weight: bold">AND BOOM GOES THE DYNAMITE!!!</span> Dave, that is exactly what just happened to me. Project is done for now. :crazyeyes:

Do I need to buy a new threaded pedestal? Are they even available? I was wondering if I could drill and tap one of the others and used the stripped one as a standard pedestal?
 
Please let me know if you have a used threaded pedestal for sale today.


For my own sanity, should the banjo fitting be oil tight when properly installed, or should I expect it to leak a bit?
 
The fellow who was working on my car confirmed what you said. He tells me he sees many cars running around 5 psi hot.

:iagree:
I do not like the low oil pressure when hot either. However, Geoff Healey has repeatedly stated that they run the engines at that level and when torn down thwy show no abnormal wear. To avert this condition he said they changed oil after esch run.---Fwiw--Keoke
 
FWIW Dept.: I just ordered (before leaving on vacation) the ReCoil set to repair the threaded pedestals (28tpi x 1/8" BSPT).

The 100/6 engine I'm putting together has a hopelessly stripped pedestal, and it was a 3-week delivery through the local machine-tool supply house (what did I care, we're out of town anyway).

By rights, I should be able to repair ten (10) pedestals with the contents of one (1) kit.
 
Legal Bill said:
Please let me know if you have a used threaded pedestal for sale today.


For my own sanity, should the banjo fitting be oil tight when properly installed, or should I expect it to leak a bit?
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With two (2) fresh copper washers, it should not leak at all.
 
Keoke said:
The fellow who was working on my car confirmed what you said. He tells me he sees many cars running around 5 psi hot.

:iagree:
I do not like the low oil pressure when hot either. However, Geoff Healey has repeatedly stated that they run the engines at that level and when torn down thwy show no abnormal wear. To avert this condition he said they changed oil after esch run.---Fwiw--Keoke
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Keoke, we are supposed to be conserving oil now. :angel:
 
Hey guys, thanks a lot for all the ideas, comments and suggestions. I just hope this does the trick. I may call David Nock to inquire about the relief valve spring.
 
Legal Bill said:
Ok, thanks Randy. Do you have the kit now, or are you still waiting for it? I'll be calling Moss tomorrow.
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I'm still in New Orleans, but they were expecting it to arrive before I returned home on 4/16. I doubt I'd have it in my hand before 4/18, the following Monday.

BTW, I think this marks my 2400th post...
 
Another item to consider, in a previous thread not too long ago (in MG section, I think) Hap W. the pro engine builder mentioned clearances. If your engine was built originally for race or fast road driving it may have an extra few thousandth clearance built into it. Those thousandths add up one or two on the mains another one or two on the rod bearings and there goes your low RPM oil pressure. No easy fix but on the other hand not a serious problem either. Bob

As an aside my father bought a new Alfa Gulia in 1966 and when warm it idled at ZERO right off the showroom floor. Never a problem.
 
Bill,

If you locate the correct length oil pressure bypass spring for the BJ8 please post with the information.

Thanks,
Ed K.
 
Hi Bill,

Sorry for responding so late.

I concur with Dave’s comment. I would not add any washers to take up the slack as I would bet your rocker shaft orifice is not lined up with the banjo. Be very careful that you follow Dave’s suggestion as it is very easy to strip the pedestal. If this proves true, you will be lowering your pressure most when the oil is at is thinnest (hot) but will see less effect from this leak when the viscosity of the oil is greatest (cold).

Also, your relief valve is set to release excess pressure when it rises to past 60 lbs. Since this is your top pressure when running cold, I expect that you are generating sufficient pressure and your pump, filter, oil, and relief valve are performing correctly. Again, I would suggest the cause of your low oil pressure is a leak and the rocker banjo is your prime suspect.

A last thought; tension is maintained on the timing chain by an oil pressurized tensioner. If your chain has stretched, the piston of the tensioner can be pushed from its cylinder and result in an oil free flow from the orifice. Although I have experienced this condition (even with a new tensioner and chain), I see this situation as a lower probability to your banjo issue.

Good hunting,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Bob Claffie said:
Another item to consider, in a previous thread not too long ago (in MG section, I think) Hap W. the pro engine builder mentioned clearances. If your engine was built originally for race or fast road driving it may have an extra few thousandth clearance built into it. Those thousandths add up one or two on the mains another one or two on the rod bearings and there goes your low RPM oil pressure. No easy fix but on the other hand not a serious problem either. Bob

As an aside my father bought a new Alfa Gulia in 1966 and when warm it idled at ZERO right off the showroom floor. Never a problem.
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Not the case here. This is just a stock engine bored 30 over.
 
Things I need

Factory service Manual-------- :laugh:
 
Legal Bill said:
Got one. Thanks. Is there a page that tells you why the oil pressure is too low on a new engine?
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Nope it tells you how to put that pedestal together and not screw up--- :laugh:
 
One issue is the higher pressure when cold. Now said:
Sounds good to me.
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