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Low-Budget Luggage Rack

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roscoe

roscoe

Jedi Knight
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So, I figure if I had a luggage rack maybe I'd be more inclined to journey a bit further from home. Looking at available racks they seem to be in the $300 to $450 range for a chromed unit. Did I mention I'm very tight with a dollar? I also don't favor the racks that use a long metal strap with padding to hook around the bottom of the boot lid.

I had a 15 foot piece of 4130 chrome molybdenum steel tubing that was looking for a purpose. A few other scraps, a couple of lollypop rod ends with the bearings punched out that fit nicely on the tubing but can slide and less than 20 dollars for a couple of really good suction cups from a company that makes them for sophistocated camera mounts and I think I've got a design that will allow me to put the wicker picnic basket my wife made a long time ago on the rack. The suction cups have a molded in 1/4-20 stud that fit the rod ends. The forward brackets just pick up the hinge point for the boot lid by punching out the pins and using a threaded screw. I think I've got enough chrome on the car so I'm just going to paint it after i weld it up. Plus, did I mention how frugal I am? Chrome shops are out of my league these days.
 

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Roscoe--

Though I am a light traveller and have never felt there to be a lack of space in the 100's boot I chose to make more functional its capacity by replacing the loose-laid piece of Armacord with a piece of 3/4" marine plywood which has three flaps attached with continuous (piano) hinge covering the recesses on the left, right and rear sides of the fuel tank.

While this doesn't increase the boot's absolute volume it allowed me to stow in these oddly-shaped but very useable areas things such as tools, fluids, etc. Thus, when I open the boot I am presented with a flat floor and since both the battery and spare live in their own dedicated spaces our two-seaters provide a lot of dry and lockable storage space, esp. when one chooses soft luggage. Security and weatherproofing, etc. are non-issues.

Unfortunately I cannot now find any photos documenting the project in my files and my car is now in PA having some work done but once I patterned out the pieces it was an easy job. When I get the car back I'll post some pics.

All that said, I admire your ingenuity,workmanship and economy.
 
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Congrats on the invention, from a Fellow Frugal Zealot.

Say, can you still open the boot lid with that rack mounted?

Tom M.
 
Michael, I salute you on your functional tidyness. Somehow that gene is missing in me. I also use those spaces but they are more of a junk drawer for extra distributor parts, electrical bits, dead bow hammer and well, you know the rest. Believe it or not, I keep a small, modified Harbor freight floor jack in the right side well which I find more practical than the factory jack when out in the world. I've had to use it several times.

Tom, your question made me run out to the shop to see if what I assumed would work really would. I admit I hadn't performed the proof of concept. Yes, it can fully open and be closed even with the hardtop on. Whew....I'll post it when it is completed.
 

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roscoe said:
Michael, I salute you on your functional tidyness. Somehow that gene is missing in me. I also use those spaces but they are more of a junk drawer for extra distributor parts, electrical bits, dead bow hammer and well, you know the rest. Believe it or not, I keep a small, modified Harbor freight floor jack in the right side well which I find more practical than the factory jack when out in the world. I've had to use it several times.

Tom, your question made me run out to the shop to see if what I assumed would work really would. I admit I hadn't performed the proof of concept. Yes, it can fully open and be closed even with the hardtop on. Whew....I'll post it when it is completed.
Click to expand...
Roscoe--

Thanks for your characterization of "Functional Tidiness". I lived on a boat on and off for thirty years and perhaps have a strong sense of "space utilization". I may also be a bit obsessive/compulsive but that's not always a bad thing.

I must also tell you a story: In 1963 I owned a 1960 BN7 and was travelling with a friend on an extensive trip that was to last several months. Neither of us was an experienced traveller or "light packer" and so I purchased a removable luggage rack with clamps which went under the edges of the boot lid, much as you describe, and we had one or two bags strapped onto the rack. Without getting into details we had an accident and I wound up driving off of the road and into some roadside brush at about 30 mph. The "stop" was not particularly sudden and no one was injured (we did not have seat belts) but the luggage rack's clamps gave way and it--complete with the strapped-on baggage--flew off and wound up some distance in front of the car. Luckily it cleared our heads. I'm certainly not saying that what you are doing is dangerous or foolish--I'm just saying to consider that the mount is not permanent.

About a jack: I did away with the second 6-volt battery and use that space to carry a scissor jack that will fit under the frame (with one tire deflated). In order to get to the space I would obviously have to remove the spare from its pocket but I probably will not need to access the jack unless I'm replacing the tire. I also have the usual Tupperware container stowed under the tire, etc. etc. Tidy-tidy!!!
 
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I believe I have just added designed in a couple of safety cables to use when the luggage rack is in use. Good story. The suction cups I have are remarkably strong.....that is to say they really suck. To make my wife smile I stuck one on my head when I unboxed them and when she went back to her book I went to pull it off and paniced because I couldn't remove it. I grabbed a credit card and slipped it under the edge. And yes, it did leave a mark.
 
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Reid--

As with all of my great ideas I hereby release all rights and royalties and contribute it to the Public Domain.
 
I admire your “frugality” however I have to say it …..it looks like ………..I daren‘t .
my main concern would be those suction cups , with weight on the rack and secured to the rack and a Healey bouncing over bumps if those cups let go or those 10/32 hinge screws shear off by the time you come to a stop the rack will have done damage to the car way more than the cost of a good properly secured boot lid rack .
How much is your car appraised at and compare that to the cost of a new good looking chrome rack ……it will be a drop in the bucket in comparison .
All just MHO .
 
Healey Nut said:
And how do you see this red line from the driver seat ?
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You don't. Just pointing out that if you were to use a suction cup, you'd know if it's making a good seal or leaking when you first apply it or checking on it when you stop on your trip.

If the OP wants to use a suction cup, this one lets you know if it's losing suction.
Might consider using a safety strap attached to the back of the rack then attached to the bumper pulling it down against the boot. Being the suction cups are bolted to the rack, if they loose suction, the strap should help keep them from moving or bouncing around.
 
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Yes, Michael's story makes a safety cable a must for my installation, as I mentioned above. My suction cups came from > - RigWheels Camera Tools < . They sell some pretty cool stuff if you are into filming your activities with detachable camera mounts and I ain't talking GoPro stuff. I'm not looking to carry a lot of weight on this thing. It all started because we're done with cooking big Thanksgiving dinners and elected to buy a precooked bird and trimmings from our favored market this year. Not sure what I was thinking but I drove the Healey to town to pick it up and with the hard top on the box it was in was almost too big for the passenger side and most certainly wouldn't fit in the boot. If my wife had been with me we would have had to go home and get another car.
Here is the cup I am using:

rigwheels.com

A-Cup - Suction Cup - RigWheels

A-Cups are industrial grade camera suction mounts with standard 1/4-20" studs that screw directly into our RigPlate or RigAxles.
rigwheels.com rigwheels.com
 
The one I had on my 64 BJ8 was permanent . It was on when I got it . When I restored the car , I got the rack repaired as it was bent and had been welded , it was then rechromed . My body guy installed reinforcing plates inside the boot lid to stop it deforming the lid . Never had to worry about suction cups failing , screws shearing off , safety straps etc etc and most of all it looked good .
If you’re going to do it ……do it right the first time .
 

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roscoe said:
Yes, Michael's story makes a safety cable a must for my installation, as I mentioned above. My suction cups came from > - RigWheels Camera Tools < . They sell some pretty cool stuff if you are into filming your activities with detachable camera mounts and I ain't talking GoPro stuff. I'm not looking to carry a lot of weight on this thing. It all started because we're done with cooking big Thanksgiving dinners and elected to buy a precooked bird and trimmings from our favored market this year. Not sure what I was thinking but I drove the Healey to town to pick it up and with the hard top on the box it was in was almost too big for the passenger side and most certainly wouldn't fit in the boot. If my wife had been with me we would have had to go home and get another car.
Here is the cup I am using:

rigwheels.com

A-Cup - Suction Cup - RigWheels

A-Cups are industrial grade camera suction mounts with standard 1/4-20" studs that screw directly into our RigPlate or RigAxles.
rigwheels.com rigwheels.com
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Roscoe, I commend you for coming up with another way to attach a rack to the boot and as inexpensive as you did. However I think you're taking a risk with Suction cups. I was just pointing out that you should consider a better quailty suction cup and a back up strap to the bumper. Safety fast.

From the site, you're using an $8 suction cup. The one I use for work and recommended is Wood's (they sell it as a C-cup) $50. I would not trust an $8 dollar unit. They explain the difference on their site, copied below.

A-Cups are industrial grade camera suction mounts with industry standard 1/4-20″ studs that screw directly into our RigPlate or RigAxles. You will notice 3 different versions of suction cups that we offer. The A-Cups are the most general purpose and most cost effective. The B-Cups have more holding power in a straight pull and they have less flex so the overall mount is a bit more solid. The trade off is that the B-Cups are more easily removed so if the mount is going to be subject to a lot of outside forces (wind, water, etc…) than the A or C version is recommended. C-Cups are for the most serious of jobs with a vacuum pump mechanism to keep the suction cup securely affixed to a surface with a visual safety indicator.
 

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So I've finished the first iteration of my luggage rack. My opinion is mixed. I like the look but might make the next version out of slightly larger od tubing. The picnic basket is for a photo op only. My wife made it years ago and I'm pretty sure lunch would be spread over the freeway if it went for a 70mph ride. It sits firmly on the boot lid, allows the boot to be fully opened and closed with the top on but looks a little spindly. Safety strap is in defference to Monsieur Oritt's near decapitation and may not be the final version. I think 20 to 25 lbs would be my limit for this design. I guess I just always liked luggage racks. It might be in the same category as the folding windshield, kind of cool but in terms of functionality.....meh.
 

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Form and function at 50lbs max.? I like it. Perhaps strengthen up with thicker aluminum slats on the bottom? My tule aluminum roof rack on my SUV is rated at 165 lbs. max.
 
Hi Roscoe--

I like what you have done thus far and wonder why you don't make your LR semi-permanant with bolts going up through the boot lid into threaded inserts, etc? As shown on the red and white car it's a nice look and is certainly safer than straps and cups, etc. Four small chrome buttons to fill the holes when the rack is off is not a bad look.

All that said. I can fit a lot of soft luggage in the boot of my car, with tools, spares, fluids and odds and ends stowed in their own compartments beneath the flaps as pictured. As I recall I used 1/2 sheet of 3/4" MDO and one 8' length of HD continuous hinge. I'd be happy to send you a full-size pattern of the floor and flaps when my car comes back in a couple of months.

See: https://www.britishcarforum.com/community/attachments/bn1boot-jpg.58307/
 
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