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TR2/3/3A Loose Lift the Dot Stud
- Thread starter jfarris
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D
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Been a long time since I had to mess with those. Dash and top of doors is wood screw threads, I think, the one you are questioning should be nut-on-back.
I would not try to spin the stud down hoping to catch the nut, as I do believe you'll fratz the paint.
Pull the inner panel loose enough to get into it with an ignition wrench. Braille capabilities might be in order. Pulling the entire panel will give you more access, more visibility. Hold the stud while doing it...again, long time ago for me...I think I pushed a piece of vacuum hose over the stud rather than a wrench.
Somebody else will have done it more recently.
I would not try to spin the stud down hoping to catch the nut, as I do believe you'll fratz the paint.
Pull the inner panel loose enough to get into it with an ignition wrench. Braille capabilities might be in order. Pulling the entire panel will give you more access, more visibility. Hold the stud while doing it...again, long time ago for me...I think I pushed a piece of vacuum hose over the stud rather than a wrench.
Somebody else will have done it more recently.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I agree, it's a nut. PITA to access even after you've removed the panel (and the soft top bows to get the panel out). You have to reach upwards through a cavity to reach it, and it cannot be seen unless you stand on your head inside the car. Most likely someone dropped the lockwasher repeatedly (BTDT) and finally installed the nut without it.
I would try spinning the stud, on the off chance the nut will hold against the inside of the panel instead of spinning with the stud. But my paint job is strictly a "10 footer", so I don't obsess over tiny scratches. ISTR it was hard to find a socket to fit the stud as well; it doesn't appear to be a standard size in SAE, Whitworth or metric.
I would try spinning the stud, on the off chance the nut will hold against the inside of the panel instead of spinning with the stud. But my paint job is strictly a "10 footer", so I don't obsess over tiny scratches. ISTR it was hard to find a socket to fit the stud as well; it doesn't appear to be a standard size in SAE, Whitworth or metric.
STeve 1958
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A friend of mine (I would never admit to doing this myself) could only get it hand tight. A single drop of super glue solved the problem.
Other idea is to put a vise grip on the stud and pull on it while you turn. Sometimes that will get the nut to engage. Could mess up the paint though.
Other idea is to put a vise grip on the stud and pull on it while you turn. Sometimes that will get the nut to engage. Could mess up the paint though.
I like that vacuum hose on the stud idea. I wonder if you could use the hose idea and then grip that with some plyers and pull back and up a little and the get the nut to catch, kinda synthesizing DOC and Randall’s idea. Those studs come in a verity of styles often a 9 mm wrench will catch that very little flat spot on the stud, and I put some blue tape on the flat side of the wrench for protection. I usually put a nylon washer under them also for fear of grinding the paint off as it tightens.
steve
steve
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jfarris
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Thanks for all the hints. I could get to the nut on the back of the stud, but could only hold it by hand. I tightened slightly from the outside. It appears there is no lock washer on the back. I have some spare studs. When it comes loose again, I'll put in a new one with a nylon washer on the outside and lock washer on the inside - maybe a little blue loctite to boot.