Look at my welds! [pics]

[71MKIV]

Big Sky Hi!
Look like to much O2 in the mix, so too hot. I'd reduce the O2 for a slightly cooler flame point. Also, did you use any flux? I always dip my welding rod in flux and the metals flow together better, and almost look prof.

Dono

<heh>
I have seen some welds in some 4 inch square solid cross section frame that were gas welded, back before arc welding was figured out. I wouldn't have wanted to be him.

The puddle is the molten metal, melted by the arc, and the wire of your mig gun is pushed into the arc and deposited into the puddle.Gas welding like Dono is using it's really easy to see. and yes it gets interesting when you are doing over head. some Days I come home with holes burned in my underwear. Or you'll be running a bead overhead and you get the "hot dryer" smell, and know you've set yourself on fire somewhere and then do the kung fu discipline thing to finish the run while your leg burns. :eeek:

 

[HealeyBN7]

Miser,

As others said, it is true, the more you practice the better you will get.

I am using a 110 Lincoln with an argon mix. I also recently started (a couple years ago) and just now finally feel comfortable that I can pick up the welder, look at the pieces and dial in settings that are reasonably close. I can go months without picking up the welder, so practice sessions are few and far between.

For a while there I was inventing things to weld together. We hosted a middle school project where the class welded metal leaves to a twisted metal olive branch structure for an auction - raised a good deal of money and knocked out a few more practice hours.

We built metal windows for the shop. The old industrial swing out kind. A railing, metal table, shop table, etc. You get the idea.

Here is my current project - 1959 Peerless GT. If you scroll to the bottom of the page you can see some close up shots of the welds.

https://www.vintagemotoring.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1542

The one thing for me that made a hugh difference was a decent auto darkening helmet. I had one from HF, that I had to toss as it started to slow down. A new helmet made all the difference.

Keep the pieces clean.

Dean

 

[Jon80spit]

HI Miser,
My two bits:
The responses you got are great advice. It is really hard to weld thin to very thick as the thick will draw heat much faster. When you get to your car, the materials you weld will probably be of similar thickness.
Make sure both pieces are shiny clean. First clean the parts with degreaser then use a die grinder or sander to polish. Don't contaminate the metal with oil, fingerprints, or other materials.
Throw away the cheap HF helmet and get a good one (I switched to a Miller). The HF helmet kept flashing me and did not adjust so well. Your eyes are worth it and you will save in grinding.
Try to get the fit up between parts touching. Hard to weld into a gap. If you blow holes, think about using a back-up plate (I call this a sister) if it does not show.
All being said, your second pic has a pretty good weld on the bottom half. I use a TIG (Miller 200DL) because I found using a MIG harder to get the results I wanted. Just my poor hand to eye or something.

 

[71MKIV]

BE CAREFUL WHAT YOU CLEAN IT WITH!!!!

if you just go grab something off the shelf, read the label.

there have been cases where someone has grabbed a can of brake cleaner to clean an area before welding, and some was trapped in a pit under rust. Some brake cleaners, when heated in the presence of argon,

results in phosgene. The mustard gas from WWI.

It WILL wreak havoc with your nervous system from which you may never recover.

just make sure whatever you use, it's good and dry before you try and weld on it.

Welding on galvanized results in chlorine. I've had a mild case of chlorine poisoning, it felt like a really nasty hangover.