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leaf spring instaltion

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tahoe healey

tahoe healey

Yoda
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I will be removing the leaf springs this weekend and realize I need to remove the tension on the springs. Is it best to use a jack under the pumpkin or at the U-bolts? (the car is on jack stands and the axle is resting on the frame) With the jack at the U-bolts it will be harder to get the four nuts off but easier to adjust how much tension needs to be relieved. Anyone who has done this have any suggestions? Any other pointers?
Thanks,
TH
 
tahoe healey said:
Anyone who has done this have any suggestions? Any other pointers?
Thanks,
TH
Click to expand...

Hey TH,

Yeah, my pointer...get someone else to do it. You know, any work on the Healey. We should just drive them!

Kidding of course. I've seen your car and it looks like a really really nice driver. I'm surprised to see your posts, about all the items on your to do list.

First off, good for you working on your own car. Second, what ever you work on, you research and do it right. Third, your effort shows. What a beautiful car. If you lived closer, I'd be lending you hand.

Good luck with this project. Sorry I can not offer any advise.
Cheers,
Roger
 
HI,

In my experience, the u-bolts are long enough to relieve the spring tension before you run out of threads. Just loosten the nuts a couple of turns each at a time and it will let the spring drop to the point there is no tension. At least that's how it went when I changed mine.

Reassembly can be a bit trickier because the new springes will heave more arch to them and it was a challenge getting the nuts started on the u-bolts. You may have to use a jack under the new spring as close to the saddle as possible to lift the middle of the spring a bit to get the nuts started. Once the nuts are started on the u-bolts, just do the reverse of disassembly, slowly tightening them a coule of turns each until tight.

IMHO the real challenge is getting the front spring bold out.

Dave
 
Hi YH, I do not recommend doing this on jack stands other than what is called out here.

1] place a jack lust ahead of the U Bolt assembly resting on the spring. Jack the car up to clear the RIGHT HAND road wheel; Remove the road wheel.
2] jack the car further until a JACK STABD can be slid under the Tube Axel.
3] undo the U bolt nuts and slowly let off on the jack until the spring hangs free.
4] Move to the rear pf the spring and disconnect the shackle assembly and prise off the inner plate and prise out the shackle with pins. Remove the jack and pull the forward spring retaining bolt out.-It should be in your hands now.
:savewave:
Please note; installation is the reverse of disassembly. However do not start on the left hand side of the car initially CUZ its a bit of a bugger,--Keoke
 
Keoke,

I'm curious why the Left side would be considered more difficult than the Right side? Is it just because of the exhaust being close to the spring?

Thanks, Dave
 
OH! Hi Dave, yes the exhaust system is over there and gets in the way. Complicating the removal. Consequently, first time learners can cut there teeth on the RH side .--Keoke-
 
I believe the last time I did it, I used a large (8-10") C-clamp to hold the spring to the axle. Release the U-bolts, back off the clamp; repeat untill the tension is released.

The C-clamp is especially helpful on assembly, as you can draw the spring to the axle to get the nuts onto the U-bolts. Using the C-clamp also puts a lot less stress on the U-bolt's fine threads.
 
Thanks,this will help. I like the clamp idea. I ran into a "snafu" with the parts and will be delaied a short time.
Can someone explain the pan-hard rod on a BJ8 phase 1 to me? It attaches to the left spring and goes arcoss the body but why? What does it do? If it is suppose to twists wouldn't it slip in the bushes?
 
Hi TH, It keep the car's arse end from movin around.--Keoke
 
Re: leaf spring installation

FWIW:

I put my car on jackstands, removed the rear wheels, my exhaust is relatively new, so I removed the rear section. You might be able to lower it enough to get access to the front left spring bolt.

I used a bottle jack under the spring plate to deal with the tension issue one side at a time.

Interestingly, the new Daur springs I bought from Cape had enough extra room in the binding shackles to insert one of the medium-length leaves in addition. Anything to fight the dreaded spring-sag condition.

I used 2" wide teflon tape as a liner on the leaves - a friend somehow located black teflon window-glide channel and has used that. At the minimum, new springs need to be bounced on a few times to break loose the paint. Supposedly they're usually stuck together.
 
Re: leaf spring installation

Thanks Steve and all.
On the bushes for the pan-hard rod, how tight do you tighten the nuts? Too tight seems to shorted the life and too loose give too much play. Kind of like the front end stuff. I never know what is right.
 
Re: leaf spring installation

tahoe healey said:
Thanks Steve and all.
On the bushes for the pan-hard rod, how tight do you tighten the nuts? Too tight seems to shorted the life and too loose give too much play. Kind of like the front end stuff. I never know what is right.
Click to expand...
They should be secured by a Nylok nut, so you only need to have the bushes fully seated under a very slight compression.

Definately not so tight that they are being distorted under the pressure.
 
Re: leaf spring installation

I removed the leaf springs, shocks, etc from my BJ8 last Saturday in under 4 hours. Exhaust was already removed. I did not have to work too hard on the reomoval because I had added grease or anti-sieze to all bolts, etc., when I did it the first time over 34 years ago. I also think the PB Blaster helped. I sprayed all bolts, nuts, etc. once a week for a few weeks efore starting. Try dry ice on areas that won't come "break free".

I did the whole front end in about the same time. I originally did it the first time about 33 years ago with much sweat and 4 letter words. I alos used anti-sieze on reassembly and this time was a breeze.
Patrick
 
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