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Jeff's hub puller

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Success here, too! I used an old thinner craftsman wrench and protected the threads with a plastic putty knife. Attached two lugs nuts and turned them symmetrically and off came the hub. The nut was still a major bear and had to use my large pipe wrench again.

Also made a discovery. I pulled off the backplate of the drum brakes along with the brake cylinder. Now I can install the new cylinder on the bench instead of struggling in the wheel well. I'm sure the majority of people here already knew this, but that was a nice revelation for me!
 
ncbugeye said:
Since it isn't a simple one-piece item (from the drawing)
Click to expand...

It was made by welding two pieces of 1/8" thick angle to the center block of 1/2" stock. I made it out of stock in my scrap bin. I don't think it took over a half an hour, using nothing more exotic than a drill press.
I spun the center button on a lathe at work.
Jeff
 
Wayyyyyyyyyyyyyy Back When, I was a kid working in a wrecking yard, I learned the "Chain" trick from an ole timer. It will yank an axel out of the most stuborn housing in a heartbeat.
 
AweMan said:
Wayyyyyyyyyyyyyy Back When, I was a kid working in a wrecking yard, I learned the "Chain" trick from an ole timer. It will yank an axel out of the most stuborn housing in a heartbeat.
Click to expand...

I on the other hand do not understand the "chain trick" could someone please explain the concept? Thanks
 
In my case I used two of the free single-use wrenches you get given free with things like basketball goals or beds or whatever, they are stamped out of 1/8" steel. Two of them stacked together and taped were exactly the right size and thickness.

But in response to Bugeye58's explanation, I really need to buy me a welder and possibly a lathe ...

Still need to know how I get the bearing out of the hub...
 
Tap the bearing out with a drift or similar blunt edge tool. The bearing was easy, the seal was kind of a pita. Don't forget to replace the o-ring, too. My driver's side hub was missing one! No wonder it was leaking. Plus the seal was put in backwards.
 
Sportsdoc said:
Tap the bearing out with a drift or similar blunt edge tool. The bearing was easy, the seal was kind of a pita. Don't forget to replace the o-ring, too. My driver's side hub was missing one! No wonder it was leaking. Plus the seal was put in backwards.
Click to expand...

I used one of my 3/4 sockets. worked perfectly. Didn't find the o-ring & seal till I was cleaning the hub for painting (I thought it was elsewhere - /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/square.gif) Looking at the bearing it doesn't seem like there is a front or back - is this correct?
 
The Chain Trick.

JerryB said:
You can usually use a length of chain with the end link of the chain on a stud secured with a nut and whip the chain to remove the hub. Alternate left to right side of the hub.
Click to expand...
 
AweMan said:
The Chain Trick.

JerryB said:
You can usually use a length of chain with the end link of the chain on a stud secured with a nut and whip the chain to remove the hub. Alternate left to right side of the hub.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

"whip the chain" means what specifically? I'm having a tough time picturing it
 
I have a chain made specificaly for this puropse, it has a short piece of 1/2 in chain with two metal plates with holes you attach to the lugs {opposing}. The main chain has a plate welded to the end link, you attach to the center of the piece attached to the lugs via a 1/2 in. bolt. whipping the chain is, you pull the chain tight then give it about 10 to 12 in. slack, raise it up then sharply downward fast and hard like a whip. When the "Slack" gets to the axel end of the chain through the whipping motion it produces one He** of a yank on the axel thusly {Hopefuly} yanking it free of the housing. Caution: I have had axels come {literaly} flying at me, using this process. AND ....... make double sure ALL axel attaching hardware is removed, some axels are attached inside of the housing via a large circlip on the end of the axel.
 
For the record; as someone mentioned earlier, it's a very loose press fit. Unless something is frozen, you shouldn't really need anything... I removed mine yesterday, as follows.

- Flipped the brake drum over, slipped it over the studs, screwed two opposing lug nuts on two or three turns, leaving an inch of free play for the drum to move.

- Gave drum a couple of good yanks.

Both axles came out easy as pie. Now, to clean off all that grease...
 
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