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jack/jackstand placement bj7

Roberte

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if I want to raise the entire front/rear end of my car where do I place the jack? After car is raised where do I place the jack stands?
 
if I want to raise the entire front/rear end of my car where do I place the jack? After car is raised where do I place the jack stands?

Rear end Jack:
Under the pumpkin
Jack Stands:
Under the diff housing at each end.

Front end Jack:
A support must be used with the Jack that covers,protects and spans the front cross member.

Front end Jack Stands:
Under each spring pan

NOTE!!
First set emergency Brake then Jack the front & add Jack stands
Second jack the rear and add Jack stands.

She will be up on all fours now--:encouragement:
 
Thank you for your prompt response. Can you suggest what type od support you found most effective? Does the support extend to the outside edge of the main frame rails (or where)? Roberte
 
I've used a wooden 2 x 4 under the front cross member. Extend it to the seams in the middle of the main rails.

BTW, if I'm lifting the whole car, I have to do the rear first. If I do the front first, I can't get the jack under the rear. Only those guys with BJ8s with the high rear ends can do the front first.
 
I'll just re-enforce what has already been said. Jack up the back first with a walker undercar jack under the pumpkin. Put a heavy rag on the jack pad to not scratch the pumpkin. Put jack stands under the frame rails about in line with the rear axle. Use a piece of plywood about 3" square between the jackstand and the frame rail. This will help from marking the frame and also help to keep things from slipping around. Put a 2x4 wood under your front crossmember all the way from under one frame rail to the other frame rail. Jack up front with the same jack on the wood. Put Jack stands under the frame rails just behind the wood piece that is across the crossmember. Use small pieces of plywood here as well. Here's some pic that might help to see it.
 

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Jacking up my Healey is a piece of cake compared to some of the race cars, esp. the Ginetta which has long overhangs fore and aft and extremely low ground clearance. This Harbor Freight jack

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton...vy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-68050.html

makes it all a piece of cake and I can easily raise the front of the Healey, put it on tall jack stands, and still be able to get under the back of the car. BTW I use the crossmembers as jacking points.
 
Hi Robert,

Take a look at the supports I created when working on the frame quite a while ago. These wooden supports allowed for the frame to be raised and held without causing any deformation during the raised by jack or maintained with jack stands. I also used a straight board under each end of the rear cross member in concert with these 2 front supports.

Frame Support.jpg

Hope it helps,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
I fit a hockey puck to my floor jack (they are a hard rubber) to protect the frame and pumpkin. On the front end I attached another hockey puck to a 1/4 inch thick steel slab 12 1/2 inches long (5 inches wide with a 1 inch lip) to fit the front cross frame.
For the rear drive onto two 6 inch wide "ramps". I have screwed two 2 x 6 blocks of wood together (one 24 inches and 28 inches long making a kind of step to drive up) set flush to one end. This gives me 4 extra inches to clear the rear exhaust with my rolling floor jack. I set the floor jacks as above. Don't forget to place a block in each of the front shock "A" frame to prevent the front from hanging. This has always worked for me but every one has their own method.
By the way, used hockey pucks can be had at second hand sports shops for 50 cents US.
 
Years of coaching and 50 years of playing. Ive given away 3 - 5gallon pails recently still find pails full of pucks hidden away in corners.
 
If you support under the frame (instead of under the front spring pans), don't forget to block up the front shock arms to avoid compressing the rubber bumpers.
 
WoW, never thought of using Hockey Pucks for jack buffers. Using old puck after cutting a groove for the center frame weld would provide an even better center-positioning reasonably secure support for general purpose quick lifts. However, if you intend to keep the frame in the air with major components (engine, transmission, etc.) still installed, I would suggest you use a more substantial support system (as described above) that locks the frame's main weight carrying sections into proper position and support for an extended lift.

Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
Lots of constructive info here. I'll add another--I think it's helpful. If the front is jacked up under the frame, even with a two by four or whatever to spread the load, the weight of the wheel and suspension assembly crushes down on the rubber rebound buffers, Moss part no. 031-279. I have replaced the damaged buffers on my car, and should note that Steve G, a regular poster here, has an excellent shortcut for making that replacement on his Web site. I think concern for the buffers is one reason to rest the car weight under the spring pans. Unfortunately, it can be difficult to get a floor jack under them. I have my car in the air right now, and I have padded jack stands under the frame and jacks under the spring pans. You can also put a wood block under the pad-like portion of the upper wishbone to prevent buffer compression.
 
The concern to protect the rubber bumper on the front suspension is a worthy concept. But beyond the concern about the rubber, the front suspension can hang fully dropped, completely assembled for an indefinate amount of time. I've done it many times and in the most recent episode my BJ7 sat on those jack stands during body reconstruction, with engine and transmission in place, with the front suspension in place for over 4 years. There is no damage, the car tracks and steers perfectly.
 

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They put the rubber buffers there for a reason, and that means when you jack it up they are doing what they are supposed to do - prevent metal to metal contact. I too have had my car on stands for long periods and never found them damaged, or anything misaligned. Beyond that, they are really easy to replace if needed.
 
Michael O, looks like a useful item. I use a 2x4 but have considered using a length of heavy steel L- channel, or even better, U-channel lined with thick rubber. Something to add to my ever-growing post retirement to-do list.
 
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