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It's all your fault

PeterK

Yoda
Offline
All this talk about the rear seal conversion made me do it.

I've had my crank installed in the block for over a year now, waiting for the rest of the engine to be assembled. Just haven't had the spare time.

At the time I had the crank turned, I also had them turn off the scroll for my seal conversion from that I purchased from BPNW a few years back. It was one of those that stated 2.500" incorrectly on the instructions.

So since I couldn't remember the details, I went ahead and pulled off the front saddle, front plate, and then the crank came out. It was a royal pita to get the rear main cap free, finally used a heat gun to soften the loctite and silicone holding on the aluminum seal plates. I need to order new cork and felt block and probably a front plate gasket.

drum roll ... crank measures 2.508" which is probably ok once I cut the seal spring down from 8.5" to 8.0". I'd forgotten but the seal is hinged (not two pieces).

I lapped the aluminum sealing plates on a piece of emory paper on granite to get the edges tight. And I'll probably build a small layer of #3 around the sealing circumference to tighten it up as prescribed too.

Don't really know what else to do. The crank is beautiful and I can't scrap it and start over.

All these discussions really get me second guessing my work. It was probably going to be a leaker, but not a gusher as-is. But will be drier with the spring cut shorter.

I'm following these https://www.socaltriumphs.org/docs/mainseal.htm instructions on sealing. Anything else I need to do?
 
All sounds good. I think you'll be ok. Why do you keep second guessing?
 
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