• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

It deja Vu ,all over again...

Share this page

DNK

DNK

Great Pumpkin
Country flag
Offline
I could have sworn I took a picture just like this a year ago.
DSCF6434.jpg
 
O..K.....

So why are you doing it again? The dreaded leak in the rear corners of the intake gasket? Don't ask me how I know about that one.
 
Don't think mine leaked there, though it was just about 1000 miles of use last season,maybe.
I spent all that time and money to correct what I thought was a bad lifter and found out ,I hope, it's the bottom end.

1 thing though. Can't seem to pull the dizzy out.Does the motor have to be at TDC for some reason ?
 
I don't think so. I don't know what difference that would make. The distributor housing is round with an o-ring just like a TR6, so nothing special there.
 
Geez, I don't know if I want to just reef it out.
Today the rest of the top end and the exhaust.
 
Sometimes you have to pry on them a wee bit. It will twist as it comes out. Make sure you check the gear on the dist and the cam gear for wear. That could be why it's being stubborn. There is no method of retaining the cam on the early engines, so the cam will walk and wear the gears. The later 4.0 engines had a retaining button and then later a retaining collar. Good luck tracking down the noise. I passed on a cheap 4.0 today that had "the noise".
 
Not even gonna try to track it down Todd.
Different short block
Will try to gently pry it up.
Should I loosen the rockers to relieve tension on the lifters before I pull the heads?
 
Yep. Then gently remove the pushrods being careful not to drop them down inside the engine. If the whole engine is coming out, remove the radiator assembly, everything on the front of the engine, then the exhaust, heads, remove the cam and lifters, unbolt the starter, clutch slave, and bell housing bolts. Support the tranny and unbolt the engine mounts and pull the short block out the top. What's going back in? 4.0? Keeping the FI?
 
4.0 and your darn right. That thing is tuned and runs great

Well it did with the 3.5 .Will have to do some minor tweaking when the 4.0 goes in.
I take it I can't pull the front cover off with the rad in there?
To hard to get to those bolts.
Ah, does the pulley have to come off for the lift out?
 
You need to remove the pulley to get the front cover off. Most likely you will need to hit the nut with an impact gun. Rad needs to come out to get the gun in there. Trickiest part is the power steering pump bracket.
 
No PS.or AC. Can the motor come out with all the front cover on if the hood is off
 
You might be able to make it, but it will be difficult. On my race car, I can change the engine as a complete unit, but I cut away several inches of metal between the hood hinges. The pulleys would catch there and if you didn't angle the engine upwards a ton. If you break it down to just the short block, you can lift the block in and out without a crane. A crane with a tilter is the best way for sure.
 
You can drop it out the bottom, but then your dealing with the steering rack, struts, transmission, half of the exhaust system, and brake lines. Plus you have to get the car almost 3 feet in the air to drag the subframe out. That's the preferred method when you are parting out a car or if you plan on doing improvements to the subframe "while your in there".
 
Tom, thought about it and asked ,but was given the thoughts Todd described. The headers are off and I will be changing back to PS while this is going on.
I have a manual rack for sale with only 1000 miles on it.

As of now, intake ,exhaust,are off and will be removing the heads today.
Todd do I need to keep the lifters in order of the cylinders they came from, or just the push rods. In fact I wonder if I should change the rods as they were from the stock 3.5 and now that there is a 4.0 block to go with the 4.0 heads,maybe?
 
Keep 'em in order if you intend to reinstall 'em... but if you're going to a different cam/block, replace both for peace of mind.
 
Push rods or lifters or both?
Year old cam ,new block
 
Always keep lifters matched to the lobes of the cam they came off of and it doesn't hurt to do the same for the push rods either.
 
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-style: italic">Note to Self</span></span></span>:


Drain the block of coolant before you pull the <span style="color: #FF0000"><span style="font-size: 26pt">FRICKIN</span></span> heads
 
Back
Top