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TR2/3/3A Installing wiring harness in steering column

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Steve,
We have a specialty hardware store here in Clermont that has almost anything you need. I have bought all my S.S. hardware from them; less then half the cost at our friendly parts places.I am going to take my Gland Nut to them, to see if they have a match. Mine has a crack in it. Will also look for the "O" ring and sleeve too.
I did not re-build the steering box as the car has very low mileage on it, 31K. When I took the cover off I found two S.S. shims and two very thin brass ones but !!! no gasket?
I have ordered a new gasket because when I put the cover back on, and tighten the four bolts, it was hard to turn the wheel. I lossened the bolts and the tightness went away. I am hoping the gasket will make the difference and it will be O.K. ?

I found all the parts I was looking for at Ace and Advance Auto.

Dick
 
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I think it unlikely that adding a gasket will help; those ball bearings will carry a good deal of load (from lack of shims) without binding. Most likely, what you are seeing is the peg being set too tight, and binding in the cam when the bearings are forced into place (by installing the cover).

Personally, I would pull the box out, as I'm convinced it cannot be correctly adjusted while in the car (and correct adjustment makes a big difference IMO). But at the very least, I would carefully mark the position of the top adjustment, and try loosening it to see what effect that has. If it frees up with the end plate installed, then the shims aren't so bad and the top adjustment has to be redone.

Good luck with finding a nut that fits those threads! They appear to be the same pitch and thread form as a modern compression nut, just made a little small. I think that, if anyone was manufacturing nuts to fit, the "big 3" would be selling them. Instead, at least the last time I checked, they were selling just common compression nuts (which don't fit right). I didn't bother trying to run the issue to ground; instead I found another steering box that I could rob the nut (and sleeve) from.

Oh yeah, the sleeve is a 'special' too. I forget if it was Moss or TRF, but what I got was a regular compression sleeve that doesn't fit right either. The original sleeve is actually supposed to have a "crack" in it, which allows it to expand so it can be removed and reused. A regular compression sleeve will deform into the tube, making it difficult to remove and impossible to reuse.
 
Dick I am with Randall about pulling the box out and doing it on the bench. With the low miles I would probably reused the brass bushing inside the box after I gave it wobble test. The difficult part is getting the pitman arm off; you should probably take it in unless you have great pullers and a torch.


I got my last brass sleeve and nut from Moss last year, but I often prefer TRF parts. The one from Moss was correct. You are not going to find a nut that fits and you will strip out the cover nut,--- order one--- you will be happier.


The end pieces are highly machined and do not use a gasket-- sometimes I have seen very thin paper there. The shim pack is critical for end float and gasket shellac was used originally on the shims, so the fluid would not leak out.

Other than what Randall correctly mentioned, the rear bearing probably shifted down and most likely it with not go back into place true. As you can tell the bearing is a very simple design and the balls can pop out if not handled with care. Plus have a look at the race for pits.

If you are stubborn and insist about leaving the column in the car and want to try some brain surgery, then lift the car up high in the front, so the column is almost horizontal and pull the cover off the box and look at the back bearing to see if it slipped and push it back with your fingers. Be very careful not to turn the steering wheel with the cover off because the force of turning the wheel pushes up and will force the peg up and over the top of one of the groves in worm gear and probably chip it. The worm gear steel is so hard it chips easily. You could easily lose this patient to trauma from a bleed out because of all oil everywhere and not getting a good seal at the end cap. In addition, do not over tighten the end plate or it will warp just a very little past the lock washers closing. You have opened Pandora’s Box; maybe you will find hope.
 
Yo Guys,

Even though I found a sleeve and nut that seems to fit, you are right, they wobble!!! I did jack the front up, no engine so light. I put three "O" rings on the tube and pushed it back in from the top. They disappeared somewhere?
 
Problem solved, parts came today from Moss.

Now my problem is HOW do I post a new topic? I am restoring a 54 TR-2 Long Door and can't figure out where the Rear Clamping Plates go ? I am questioning the Stay that supports the fender to chassis. My 57 TR-3 has a Stay that is a 1/4" rod that attaches to a bracket on the fender and attached to the chassis through a hole in the chassis lip. The one shown in Moss catalog is a flat plate with a hole in either end?

I can fabricate some brackets to make the Stay work but, I have no idea where the Rear Clamping Plates attach???

Sounds like I need a Randall solution?

Dick
 
Is this what you are referring to. TR3A

David
Rear Wing support.jpg
 
If by "clamping plates" you mean P/N 602167 "Clamp, rear wing fixing", then they go at the very back of the rear fenders, inside the fender but secured by the last bolt that comes from inside the drip rail above the trunk. Not a very good photo, but maybe you can see where I outlined the clamp here. The piece on top of the photo, with the red paint showing, is the fender, while the lower piece is the inner fender (part of the tub).


Never heard of a round stay rod back there; almost sounds like someone repaired your TR3 using a radiator stay. Mine have all looked like the photo David posted above (tho not nearly so pretty).
 
I can always drill a hole in the lip, right side, but will have to fabricate a bracket for the left side.

Thanks David This one looks easy but, the clamping plate, as shown by Randall, still baffles me? What is it clamping together? I assume the picture is upside down?

Dick
 
It is not really “clamping” anything. It has a single tab which distributes some of it’s force to the rear, past the last hole. Without it, the outer wing would have a tendency to spread above/forward of the tail lights. Just install that nut under the last bolt and ensure the tab goes to the rear...
 
What John and Randall said; here is picture of them off the car. Plus I would suggest when you fill your steering box that you fill it from the upper hole on the column itself that way the top bearing is bathed in oil.
 
Thank you John for the explanation for how that is supposed to work. I can now see that it would tend to hold the last section of the wing closed.

David
Rear Wing clamp 2.jpg
 
Dial Test Indicator. Measures in 0.001" looks like a clock face.

The photo is taken looking up into the gap between the inner and outer wing. The bulge on the right of the photo is the tail light.

David
 
There are different classes of dial indicators; you probably want one that (like David said) measures to .001" resolution and (usually) has 1" of travel. Here's a shot of checking steering end float with one
yUGNU5X.jpg


The magnetic base shown is a handy accessory to have,too. This looks like a reasonable example, for occasional use on your own car.
https://www.amazon.com/All-Industrial-Tool-Supply-TR72020/dp/B002YPHT76



To me, the phrase "dial test indicator" is more likely to refer to one of the more accurate kind, which typically measure down to .0001" resolution and have a much more limited measurement range (typically .030"). Often used for precision machining and tool making, but not what I would recommend for automotive work.

PS, note that even the .001" variety are delicate instruments and need to be treated as such. Any kind of impact, or being dropped on the floor can (and probably will) damage the mechanism inside. It's best to lift and hold the plunger (knob on top) while moving them into place; then let it down gently.
 
Redoakboo said:
How much oil does the box hold?
Click to expand...
I don't know the exact amount, but it's not much. I'd guess less than an American pint.

FWIW, I believe Valvoline Synpower gear oil (75W90) is an excellent choice for the steering box. Although it is rated GL5 and the box has "yellow metal" in it; the Valvoline product does not use the additive that can attack yellow metal. And it's slicker than ordinary GL4 oil, which should help reduce steering effort. Last time I bought a quart, it was on sale for about $8 at Autozone; but for some odd reason they had it in the back. I had to ask for it.
 
I have always used the term DTI or Dial test indicator as a generic term for all varieties from 0.001" per division to 0.0001"

As Randall said they are fragile so should be handled with care.

David
 
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