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TR2/3/3A Inner sils replacement

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Rubicon

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So I'm replacing the inner sils, I got the door braced, old inner sil removed, and the new one installed and clamped down, some bolts installed. Now test fitting the door, and I am running into some issues/questions. I have the "A" post where I think it should be, I may have to pull the scuttle forward so the inner sil matches up to the floor/firewall, it's only out a tiny amount.
Now the issues are in the rear, the "B" post I can't seem to get to sit onto the sil. I'm approx 1/2 " away from the sil, top and sides of the "B" post. Do I need to unbolt the rest of the body to make it sit correctly on the sil? I still need to do the passenger side so, I don't want to get to much loosen off.
Test fitting the door and it seems to fit reasonabley well, a bit of tweeking and it should be ok. The gals are large on the front but very even, and the rear is tight but almost the same as well.
So what do I do about the "B" post? as well how tight is too tight for door gaps?
Thanks
 
I may have found part of the issue, it's looking like the back half of the car has drooped I'll try jacking it up and seeing if that helps any.
Tomorrow's job. Any other help is appreciated.
 
The information does not sound like you are going to solve the problem with just raising the rear of the body. The reason is because if the rear of the body was drooped then the gap at the rear of the door would not be even. The gap would be tight at the bottom and wide at the top.
Charley
 
Seems like the whole point of bracing the doors is to keep the relationship of the A and B posts, so I bet you need to make an adjustment to the new sill so it meets the B post where it is. But I am not an expert, just interested in the issue.

Dan
 
How does the crease in the door align with the quarter panel? Do you have the packing pieces under the inner sill?

I am fighting with the door alignment on my TR. The PO probable did the inner sill replacement off the frame.

David
 
Pictures would be good if possible :cool:

Cheers
Tush
 
My recollections are that the B post does NOT sit on top of the sill. There was about a 1/4 to 3/8 inch gap between an inward projection of the B post and the top of the sill. The B post sits alongside the sill with the forward and rearward projections welded onto the side of the sill. Can you tell us where you got your sill ? On my most recent work 1+ years ago I used the new sills from TRF. I found them superior to what I had used a number of years earlier. In other words not all sills are created equal.
Charley
 
....but he mentions "unbolting the rest of the body" so I'm assuming that it's on the frame....

Cheers
Tush
 
Sorry for the late reply got wound up with some other items.
To answer some questions
- it's still on the frame so alignment should not be too bad, or if it is it will fit this frame.
- I got some old ones of eBay, so not sure who made them, but they are stamped and not hand formed. They fit the frame really nice just not so much the body.

Now onto some pictures
image.jpg"A" to the sill

image.jpg "B" to the sill height from sill to "B" post is approx 3/4" and from sill to the outer edge is 1.25", but to me it looks like it need to move in farther so the "B" sits on the top of the sill.
image.jpgThe door line looks ok, but I do need new hinges as they are worn out.
image.jpg Door gap is tight at the bottom but seems to look ok for the top, which believes me that I need to lift the back of the car to correct this.

The bottom part of the "B" post flanges are tight on the sill currently but I am more worried about the gap/hole at the corner of the "B" post to the sill. Is this correct? I don't have outer sills yet so I can't trial fit the, to see if that goes away/covers up.
Im not sure how much the other side is holding the car straight and parallel, due to the rot in both sills/floors, etc. That's why I'm fitting so much with the doors currently.

Thanks in advance.
 
Ok so with pulling the bottom of the "B" post aft with some clamps, I got the door gaps looking good. The door opens reasonable ok, need some adjustments. I'm thinking that the post are now in the correct locations, just the hole/gap at the bottom of the post is the last thing I worried about.
 
Rubicon said:
Ok so with pulling the bottom of the "B" post aft with some clamps, I got the door gaps looking good. The door opens reasonable ok, need some adjustments. I'm thinking that the post are now in the correct locations, just the hole/gap at the bottom of the post is the last thing I worried about.
Click to expand...

If you don't have the door latches all in place I would suggest that you do before going just by the gap.
Tom
 
No I do have the door latch in place as well as the striker. I've got play in both hinges but door opens in the droop or lifted position, but it is bolted on to the "A" pos. If I don't drag the bottom of the "B" back I don't have the nessary clearence to make a good door gap, and I'll be grinding the door as well as the "B" to make a correct door gap.
 
Rubicon said:
Ok so with pulling the bottom of the "B" post aft with some clamps, I got the door gaps looking good. The door opens reasonable ok, need some adjustments. I'm thinking that the post are now in the correct locations, just the hole/gap at the bottom of the post is the last thing I worried about.
Click to expand...

It sounds like you are getting closer. I am unable to understand what the "gap" is that you are referring to. The B post should lie alongside the sill and the flanges on each side would be welded to the sill. The bottom of the B post is open. Picture 2 of the sill and B post looks about correct.
Charley
 
Working on my TR I have found that very small adjustments to the door can have unexpected results. A small shim under one hinge can change the door gap more than expected. If the hinges are worn that may be having more effect than you realize.
When I started on mine the PO had the door gap about 3/8" too small for the door. It has taken a lot of work to get the door to fit.

David
 
I did not realize that the bottom of the "B" post was open like that, when I was removing the old sill it looked like it was sitting on the sill completely. Thanks for the answers

As for the hinges, I'll have to see what the passenger side looks like and maybe I'll get a good set if I'm lucky. I've got the door opening pretty good now, the gaps are looking correct when the door is closed. That was what I was worried about if I didn't make these adjustments before I get the "A" and "B" post correct that the door would not fit correctly.
Thanks for the quick responses.
 
. That was what I was worried about if I didn't make these adjustments before I get the "A" and "B" post correct that the door would not fit correctly.
Thanks for the quick responses.[/QUOTE]

Right on!!!! Once you weld the two posts onto the sill most of your options are behind you. One other thing that happened to an earlier sill that I used was that it was poorly designed and the floor brace was not at the correct height. The newer TRF sills have corrected that error.
Charley
 
Well I welded it on this afternoon, door opens and close just as it did before so it 1 small step in the right direction. The replacement floor I dropped it in, it just needs a bit of adjustment before I can mig it in. It's a nice feeling to use up these parts that I have for the tr2. Maybe by the end of winter I'll be at the lifting the body off stage.
 
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