• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR6 Information for front crank seal - TR6

davidk

Jedi Trainee
Offline
I was planning to change out the front oil seal on my TR-6 this weekend, but it was backordered from my favorite vendor (they really usually are my favorite vendor).

Does anyone know of a "cross over" or reference number that I could take to my local auto parts store?

Thanks for your help!
 
I was able to look it up with Napa:
 

Attachments

  • 24741.png
    24741.png
    137.7 KB · Views: 402
I just did mine two weeks ago and the photo below is the seal I used. I also installed a new sleeve since my original had a groove in it.
Important: It is a royal PITA to get the timing cover back on because of the timing chain tensioner. I made a wire hook and pulled it out of the way in order to re-install the timing cover.... then you have to fish out the wire hook :wall:

Edit: The seal was about $7 locally from an industrial supply company
Edit: I just looked at the part number in Darrell's post above... it's the same part number.
 

Attachments

  • 24744.jpg
    24744.jpg
    24.7 KB · Views: 402
yes that cover is a PITA to get back on I ended up banging it on with my hand and hit the timing pointer and punched a nice hole in my palm

Hondo
 
I put a new key in when I rebuilt the engine so there was no need to remove it just to replace the seal.

One more heads up... you will have to keep the crank from turning to loosen the crank bolt.
Here's what I did....
 

Attachments

  • 24747.jpg
    24747.jpg
    80.3 KB · Views: 377
Gliderman8 said:
I put a new key in when I rebuilt the engine so there was no need to remove it just to replace the seal.

One more heads up... you will have to keep the crank from turning to loosen the crank bolt.
Here's what I did....

That's pretty ingenious rig to hold the crank.

But, I thought the woodruff key had to be off the crank in order not to foul up the seal when putting the timing cover back on. I guess its large enough to clear the key. Must be thinking about something else I have to put back on that I need the key out for.
 
Simpson-
If my memory is right, I think the only time you would have to remove the key is to replace the oil thrower that sits behind it.
I just went into the garage and removed the timing cover to take this photo for you... hope it helps :jester:
 

Attachments

  • 24776.jpg
    24776.jpg
    33.3 KB · Views: 317
Doesn't even the oil slinger have a notch in it, so it can slip over the key? I'm pretty sure the TR3 version does.
 
Elliot, Thank you for doing that!!! I remember now, I was just thinking I might need to shim the new crank sprocket when I go to reassemble the engine that is undergoing a rebuild if it does not align (in terms of being on the same plane) with the new cam sprocket. the key would have to come out for the shims. I have my oil thrower off, and it has a key slot so that must not be the reason. I took it all apart in Dec. and have run into a slow (busy) machine shop, so I have forgotten some stuff.
 
TR3driver said:
Doesn't even the oil slinger have a notch in it, so it can slip over the key? I'm pretty sure the TR3 version does.

You are probably right Randall... honestly I was going from memory which can be dangerous!
In replacing the front oil seal I didn't have to remove it; I'll check my diagram but as I said you are probably correct in that it is keyed.

edit: I just re-read simpson's post and he writes <span style="font-style: italic">"I have my oil thrower off, and it has a key slot...."</span>
 
Back
Top