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T-Series Ignition switch cylinder removal - '74 GT

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BoneIdle

BoneIdle

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Greetings all!

I am attempting to replace the ignition switch on the GT since it no longer functions correctly.

I've run into a problem: removing the cylinder. I know ( after searching here ) that it should be possible to remove just the cylinder, but I'm stumped.

I removed a set screw on the bottom of the assembly, which permitted detachment of the connector, but I can't find a similar screw holding the cylinder in place.

Can someone clue me in? Is there a way to do this? Is there a set screw? If so, exactly where is it?

Thanks!

Garry
 
For th' life of me I can't remember... but if ya were still here I wager I could just drive over and DO it.

sorry. :shocked:
 
Yeah, Doc.

Thanks for the sentiment. Probably a lot warmer there than here right now, too.

I'm starting to get to the point of sitting in the driver's seat and shouting "Open Sesame!" repeatedly until something happens.
 
Hey Garry. On my 74 roadster there are two shear bolts on the top of the cylinder lock assembly, which I had to Dremel two slots in so they could be backed out with a standard screwdriver. After that the two pieces of the lock pulled off the steering column, which allowed me to pull the cylinder free. I don't think there is any way to remove the cylinder without removing those two bolts, and probably with good reason.
 
Thanks 100DashSix!

I've pretty much reached that conclusion as well . Dremel it is, then.
Now to find my cutting disks...
 
Any joy?
 
I had to slot those bolts on the 79 to pull the switch to unlock the steering, as it came with no keys. But, the car was setting in the middle of a field and I had to cut the bolts with a hacksaw blade. Took about an hour of sawing and I finally got the lock out.
PC210001.jpg

Ever saw with a bare hacksaw blade, for an hour? Dont!
I had to unlock the steering to winch it up on the trailer.
Why do we do these things? Cause were hooked!
caught.gif
 
Still working at it. Stubborn bolts. I may have to use an EZ-out
 
Lots of PB Blaster and a left-twist bit could help, too.
 
The lower half of the steering lock is now out of the vehicle. I had forgotten I am the god of precision implements. Demi-god of small tools? Legendary hero of abrasive devices? Okay, average guy with a good needle file.

Cut a slot on each screw. That took about 10 minutes per side. So far, so good.

But now, how do I get the ignition cylinder out of the lock? It should be doable: VB, at least, lists the ignition switch as a separate part number.

I'm sure this has got to be obvious.
 
I think he's got one... :wink:

You should be able to see some kind of release on the lock housing, the key needs to be in the thing and in a specific position for it to release the cylinder, IIRC.
 
The housing is as smooth as an infant's brain. Hmmmm.
 
Look to see if it'll come out from the rear....somewhere in the back of my memory, I remember doing that to 1 ignition switch,
 
Here's a pic. Jog any memories?
 

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UPDATE:

If you look at the right top quadrant on the photo in my last post, near the top of the housing, you can (maybe)see two little dimples. Those apparently conceal roll pins.

I'm letting a locksmith do this extraction. I've spoken to one, and he's estimating $20.00 max. I could probably do it myself, but considering the cost of a replacement steering lock, I'm gonna play it safe on this one.

I'll post more info when this is done. It might be a good thing for others to know.
 
Another Update:

The locksmith drilled the roll pin out. Actually he drilled beside the pin and extracted it, so it's still usable.

Now to order the new switch...
 
The new switch should be here Thursday. I can't wait. I also ordered a bushing for the shift lever and I finally broke down and ordered a carb synchronizing tool. I used to have one, but when I sold my '79 roadster years ago, I let it go with the car...I should have known I'd need it again.
 
Never willingly give up TOOLS!!! :shocked:
 
Okay. Now I'm bummed.

I received the parts from VB today. The "ignition switch" turned out to be the wiring and plug from the rear of the cylinder. That doesn't do a whole lot of good.

Talked to their customer service people, but they really couldn't help either.

Any ideas? Remember, I'm trying to replace the part that the key goes into.
 
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