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Ideas on getting this bolt unstuck

tdskip

Yoda
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On the '74 TR6. Figured might as well pull it and get it rebuilt while I wait for the spacers. I've tried a breaker bar on it and it felt like it was going to snap, which would stink.

FYI - got the new TRF motor mounts install no problem, and with a bit of coaching from Bill I have good clearance for the fan belt now.

1974AlternatorStuckBolt5-29-092.jpg
 

TR4nut

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Tom--

Something bad happened to your photo link, it isn't there anymore.

Not sure what kind of bolt problem you have, but I still swear by the trick another BCFer or team.net-er talk me a while ago: localized heat, touch stud with a candle to draw wax into the threads. I've been able to pull several snapped studs with that method without fail.

Randy
 

TR4nut

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Tom-

If I have the picture right, isn't that a very long bolt, say 5-6" holding the alternator? If heat can't be used, I'd hit the back part with PB Blaster, let it soak away - and can you possibly get an impact wrench on it to try to jar it a bit?

Randy
 

mailbox

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You might could cut the head off, remove the alternator, THEN try the wax thingy trick (never heard of that. WILL have to try.)
grin.gif
 

tomshobby

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The wax trick is something the old timers used in the days when very few home shops had air tools. It was used a lot on bolts or plugs threaded into castings. Now days a lot of candles are not made of wax or paraffin which is what works best. Doesn't need a lot of heat and works surprisingly well.
 
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tdskip

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Actually the bolt extends all the way through to the other side, so it is a good 12 inches or so long. It passes through the mounting and spacers and comes out the other. Very different mounting than the 1971 TR6.

1974AlternatorStuckBolt5-29-09-1-1.jpg
 
D

DougF

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After soaking it, try tapping the spacers from various angles with a hammer. If electrolysis has formed between the alternator body and the capscrew, this might be enough to break it up.
 
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tdskip

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Hi guys - well I tried rapping the spacers with a hammer, more soaking, heat, more soaking and no dice.

Funny how this was one thing that I was not worried about...
 

DaveatMoon

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It looks like you <span style="font-style: italic">might</span> be able to get a hammer and impact driver in there. :hammer: Even if you have to pull the radiator and/or grille to do it, it would be better than breaking the bolt. An impact driver might help shock the bolt loose after a good overnight soaking in PB Blaster. Mine has saved my butt more than once! :smile:
 
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tdskip

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I think I'm heading that way - which is annoying because I just put the radiator back <span style="text-decoration: underline">in</span>.
 

mikespain

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You might end up having to carefully cut the bolt between the spacer and the alternator mount at the front and back(hacksaw blade),remove the alternator and then if the bolt is seized on the threaded part in the alternator it will be easier to work on and extract on the bench or if it is seized as it passes through the block it can be soaked and coached out with 'ammer and drift heat etc,just make sure you cut on spacer side ,theyre cheaper to replace than the alternator brackets,possibly easier and quicker than removing rad etc and then finding the bolt still shears.
 
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KSIS

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Tom,
I had a similar issue on my sons VW GTI. The allen head stripped. We cut the head of between the spacer and the bracket, bent the altenator up out of the way and slid it of for room to work. We cut the bolt in half, then cut a notch in the threaded end. We use channel locks on one side and a screw drriver on the other. We both took turn twisting and the bolt slowly came out.
PIA factor, about a 7, but it worked.

I would go the first route and spray woth PB Blast. Our solution was a last resort.
 

BobbyD

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If I'm understanding this correctly, you got the nut off of the bolt but the bolt is frozen inside the alternator or the spacer. I've got a GM alternator but I've reused all pieces that you have, just in a different order. The picture below gives a good view of the areas where it can be bound up. How about going the other route and remove the bracket from the engine (two bolts) and take the alternator and bracket off as a unit. Then you could work of it while off the car. BFH, PB Blaster, Heat, Impact wrench!


Alternator%20New%20Bracket%20and%20Spacer.jpg
 

TR3driver

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Faced with a similar problem on my TR3, I wound up drilling the bolt after cutting off the exposed end. Bolt was 3/8", so I used a 1/4" drill bit and went in as far as I could before the hole wandered to the side of the bolt (as evidenced by getting rust out with the swarf). Then I shot some PBB down the hole, and turned the head; the mangled bolt came right out.
 
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tdskip

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Thanks guys - I think pulling the mounting bracket to remove the unit as a whole so I can then beat the stuffing out of it is a good idea. I'm expecting that I'll be sectioning the inner bolt and breaking out the drill as well.

Also seems like this is a hint that it is time to go with an upgraded alternator...

I had such a simply plan - rebuild the suspension and then just drive her as is (ie rolling ugly) and enjoy the season. The phrase polishing a turd comes to mind here - LOL. (I bought her like this, so no complaining)
 
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tdskip

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Wait - I can't remove the mounting bracket because the bolt runs through a plate which is attached to the engine front cover. That thin plate that runs down near the middle (middle arrow on the right side just touches it) will prevent me from removing the mounting block. Bummer.

I have managed to get the parts with the red arrows turning now, so the bit locking it in place must be in the long middle section in between the two most right red arrows.

1974AlternatorStuckBolt5-29-09-2.jpg
 

TR4nut

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Oops! I take back Bob's reported victory!

Have you tried this: put the rear nut on loosely to just protect the threads - then hit that forward with a hammer. Don't think there is much you can damage with that operation, and it might at least break the rust bond.

Randy
 
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