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Well thinking on this mod I have at least three reasons for doing it.
1. Hinge and hinge mounds are not straight. It looks to me that without major difficulities I will never be able to get the hinges in the correct position to fit the hood properly.
2. My old back really gets to hurting when tucked under that bonnett. Upon reflection it hurt when I was 30 as well. hehe
3. With the hood open it showes off the engine compartment to perfection.
I have managed to find the book that the Speedwell kit was made from. They want $250 for what is really a bolt on operation. I have a local guy who fabs in alum. think I will discuss with him as I have drawings for the components.
Yep will need a latch but I have seen some inovative ideas for that as well that do not show at all. Will look on the web and see what I can find again. Some of the folks are real good at this stuff.
This forward hinge works with or without the front bumper. Look at the speedwellengineering.com kit. it is the same. Includes a front catch to control the front tilt.
I made one like the speedwellengineering kit, and it works fine and does allow use of the bumper, but I still haven't decide what to do about a latch yet.
On another note: I'm wondering if it would be possible to make a front fold system for the bugeye bonnet. I might get out my tape measure this afternoon.
I was working with the idea of doing a front flip a long time back. I considered using the latches from a Spitfire, but mount them inside the car. You could make a set of footwell panels with cutouts in them for the latches. It would require quite a bit of work.I don't like the look of any latches on the outside.
I'm looking at using some of the flush mount "racer boy" hood pins and mount the latches on the interior.
Front fold... They go by different names. They are popular in the streetrod crowd (4 pivoting struts allow the bonnet to lift and rotate forward "setting" forward and at a slight angle. Generally, they provide enough clearance to check oil and such (or display at a show)but the rear struts can be taken loose to allow more access for serious engine work.
I've always wanted to do the catches like a TR6 has. They have one in the center, but a BE could use the original hinges, welded solidly, as the "platform" for the catch which cold bolt onto the re-enforced part of the BE bonnet where the hinges used to attach. Make sense?
Yup, someone here posted a picture to such a setup. My two issues with that
1. somewhat unsightly and not very elegant
2. fear of fighting to get it open when the latches get stuck.
Locating the rear bit correctly will require some locating pins. I meant it is unsightly when the hood is raised. On my sprite I'm hiding anything I can that I deem unsightly.
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