Hydraulics or Engine first?

[drooartz]

Okay, I'm nearing the time when I can actually fire up the Tunebug's new Hap-built 1275. I should have the cooling system in this week, then a few bits this weekend and I could be ready for a test fire. I redid all of the brake/clutch bits as well, but there is no fluid in the new lines yet. Can I fire the motor (tranny in neutral) before bleeding the lines out, or do I need to get the hydraulics working first?

I'd really like to hear this motor run, but don't want to break anything with a little impatience. I'm years into this project already, and a few more weeks won't matter one way or another.

 

[jhorton3]

You can do it without bleeding the lines, but if you get the itch for a joyride around the block, you better bring a big rock.

 

[JPSmit]

You can do it without bleeding the lines, but if you get the itch for a joyride around the block, you better bring a big rock.

You know you'll want to try it. It maybe takes an hour to bleed the brakes

 

[jvandyke]

and 6 to bleed the clutch

 

[drooartz]

and 6 to bleed the clutch

That's the part I'm most worried about.

I know it's just a mental game, but hearing that engine run would be a great motivator towards getting the rest buttoned up.

 

[tdskip]

Drew - have you bought/made a pressure bleeder yet?

No reason I can see not to fire the engine up (making sure to run it in properly), if it is going to give you a shot in the arm why not?

 

[tony barnhill]

Bleed first - that way you can drive her.

 

[Guest]

Bleed first - that way you can drive her.

+1, I can't tell you how many times I've drivin off too soon from excitement in a car that wasn't NO WHERE near ready to drive. Then you have to fight "drive urge" to fix it and I always rush through important stuff, "just to see how it'll drive".

I almost burnt my grandmother's house down with a gas powered golf cart that had a fuel leak when I was 13. ( funny story)

Yeah, it motivates me, to drive it ,right there and then.

I know me well enough to not even tempt myself anymore. ( cause I know I ALWAYS give in.)

Look at it this way, what good is a running car that you can't stop ?!?!?!?!

After all, stop is WAAAAY more important than go.

It's more enjoyable that way too.

 

[drooartz]

Drew - have you bought/made a pressure bleeder yet?

No pressure bleeder, though I do have speed bleeders all around.

I'll probably give bleeding it a try first... y'all are just too practical. We'll see which system I get completed first.

 

[Guest]

Drew - have you bought/made a pressure bleeder yet?

No pressure bleeder, though I do have speed bleeders all around.

I'll probably give bleeding it a try first... y'all are just too practical. We'll see which system I get completed first.

bought and tried two different vaccum bleeders and never had much luck with them. It would appear that they were creating so much vaccum that air was being drawn around the m/c seals from the back of the bore as I uld never get them to bleed prpperly. Went back to the old way and worked out fine. Neve tried pressure bleed.

 

[bugimike]

One more vote with Tony! Once you hear it running, you know you are going to want to go for at least a short test spin!!!! :wink: :thumbsup:

 

[Guest]

One more vote with Tony! Once you hear it running, you know you are going to want to go for at least a short test spin!!!! :wink: :thumbsup:

EXACTLY !!!!

 

[startech47]

Danforth with a chain before the rope. Just chuck it out when you want to stop. Some boater may be mad when he finds out his anchor is missing. Bleed the brakes first.

 

[DrEntropy]

Complete the car, Drew. Don't matter how much vroom ya got and the engine will need breaking in PROPERLY. That means the rest of the systems need to be functioning before you start putting time on a NEW engine.

You'll need to check the entire hydraulic system (both, actually) for leaks, test the fuel system for same. Insure all is ready before you light the mill.

Running a new engine for a few minutes and shutting down is not a good idea. You need to be able to run it thru a few "heat cycles" and put some load on it. Can't do that unless all else is right first. Did Hap describe a good first-run procedure? I'm sure he'd explain it if given a call.

...I know, I'm a buzz killer. :smirk:

 

[drooartz]

That's why I asked first, Doc.

I'm intending to give Hap a call before I start it up for the first time. I've got notes from him, but want to be absolutely sure I know what I need to do before diving in.

I guess I'll just have to break down and finish the rest of the car.

 

[Hap Waldrop]

Sounds like you're getting close Drew, call me whenever you are ready, and I'll help anyway I can.

 

[drooartz]

I am getting close, Hap -- and I will definitely call you once I'm ready for the first start up.

 

[markberry]

Drew - have you bought/made a pressure bleeder yet?

No pressure bleeder, though I do have speed bleeders all around.

I'll probably give bleeding it a try first... y'all are just too practical. We'll see which system I get completed first.

bought and tried two different vaccum bleeders and never had much luck with them. It would appear that they were creating so much vaccum that air was being drawn around the m/c seals from the back of the bore as I uld never get them to bleed prpperly. Went back to the old way and worked out fine. Neve tried pressure bleed.

It's interesting that you haven't had much luck with vacuum bleeders. I have a craftsman model(straight of the shelf of a Sears store)that works perfectly for me. bleeding the clutch takes me 5 minutes max and perfect every time.

 

[DrEntropy]

As for bleeding hydraulics, I prefer the Eezi-Bleed rig. Just did a Jag V-12 with it yesterday. Replaced flex hoses, put the gizmo on and had it all done inside a half an hour...

that did NOT include hose replacement and gettin' access to the rear bleed screws, understand. :shocked:

Tho I'd still prefer accessing the rear calipers on an E-type over a Spridget clutch slave. :wink: