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SilentUnicorn
Yoda
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i'm on vacation, I will have one for ya.
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hs2's slight hesitation under load
- Thread starter Woodie
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Hello Woodie,
did you say 3 to 3 1\4 turns, that is far too much, bearing in mind the 'Base' setting is two full turns down from flush to the bridge. All else being correct you should have to do very little adjustment from there, say 1\2 turn.
I'm interested that it wouldn't run with the vacuum advance disconnected, it should have little real effect on the running. Firstly make sure that the mechanical advance is free and operating, it will never run well if it is not.
There was a poster on here that used to say "90% of carburation problems are ignition" or words to that effect. Make sure that is correct first.
Alec
did you say 3 to 3 1\4 turns, that is far too much, bearing in mind the 'Base' setting is two full turns down from flush to the bridge. All else being correct you should have to do very little adjustment from there, say 1\2 turn.
I'm interested that it wouldn't run with the vacuum advance disconnected, it should have little real effect on the running. Firstly make sure that the mechanical advance is free and operating, it will never run well if it is not.
There was a poster on here that used to say "90% of carburation problems are ignition" or words to that effect. Make sure that is correct first.
Alec
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
Offline
I'm guessing that there is still a significant air leak. Richening the mixture is hiding the problem.
OP
Woodie
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Yes I know 3 1/4 turns is too much, but .... as for the vacuum advance it stalled out when I plugged the hose per the suggestion of previous post. I did not leave it unplugged, but when disconnecting it the car ran, and only stalled a few seconds after I plugged it. I think the adle actually picked up before I plugged it. But Hey I'm a rookie and only doing what is suggested. Should I have left it unplugged??
startech47
Jedi Knight
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Is the internal diameter of the movable jet in the carb. you replaced the same as the other carb. If not the mixture will be off even if the needles are the same. The area of the annular space will be different. You could check with numbered drill bits, if you have a set. The numbered drills are only a few thousandths different between the numbers.
Morris
Yoda
Offline
I agree with Alec. Do not waste time with balancing/adjusting the carbs until you make sure your ignition timing is set correctly. Last year, I invested hours and hours and hours fidling with my carb only to find that my issue was with the timing. If you do not have a timing light, a lot of big chain parts stores will "loan" you one. Or, if you have a Harbor Freight or Northern Tools near by, you can pick one up from them pretty cheap. A timing light is an essential tool in my opinion.
OP
Woodie
Jedi Warrior
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I have a timing light, and had timed the car with the old carb, "by ear" as I could not locate the notch on the pulley.It had run great until now. I know where the marker tab is, but even with cleaner rubbed on the pulley I could not find it. I have read but do not know/understand how to do static timing.
I guess I am back under to try and find that notch again.....
I guess I am back under to try and find that notch again.....
Hello Woodie,
you need an accurate mark on the front pulley to do stroboscopic or static timing. You can set the timing by trial and error but to check the mechanical advance you need some mark and when using the timing light, rev the engine and see how much the mark moves. If you have a light with a variable angle dial you can measure the advance variance from idle to say above 5,000 rpm, which should be in the order of 22 degrees or so. (Check your manual for the specific advance)
Static timing is easy to do as long as you have a mark on the front pulley, set the engine to what the static timing is, and with the ignition on, the points should just be opening. You can check this with a meter across the points or a test lamp. Loosen the distributor clamp and rotate the distributor, backwards and forwards slightly until the meter just reads 12v or the lamp lights, then tighten the clamp. You are looking to get the point where the points are just opening which is where the meter just picks up or the lamp just lights. That's it.
Alec
you need an accurate mark on the front pulley to do stroboscopic or static timing. You can set the timing by trial and error but to check the mechanical advance you need some mark and when using the timing light, rev the engine and see how much the mark moves. If you have a light with a variable angle dial you can measure the advance variance from idle to say above 5,000 rpm, which should be in the order of 22 degrees or so. (Check your manual for the specific advance)
Static timing is easy to do as long as you have a mark on the front pulley, set the engine to what the static timing is, and with the ignition on, the points should just be opening. You can check this with a meter across the points or a test lamp. Loosen the distributor clamp and rotate the distributor, backwards and forwards slightly until the meter just reads 12v or the lamp lights, then tighten the clamp. You are looking to get the point where the points are just opening which is where the meter just picks up or the lamp just lights. That's it.
Alec
Morris
Yoda
Offline
One way to find the notch on the pully (or make a new one) is to pull your #1 spark plug, poke your finger in the hole and slowly turn the motor until you can feel the piston at it's highest point. You may have to nudge it back and forth a bit until you find this point. If the distributor rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire, you should be at TDC. If the rotor is pointing to #4, you will have to turn the motor over one more time.
Once you have it at TDC check your pulley and see if there is a notch on the pulley that corresponds to the TDC mark on the tab. If not, you can scrape one on using a blade of some kind.
Once you have it at TDC check your pulley and see if there is a notch on the pulley that corresponds to the TDC mark on the tab. If not, you can scrape one on using a blade of some kind.
Baz
Yoda
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Woodie,
Take your time, enjoy your family, the car will still be in the garage. I've spent the majority of the summer in the garage and my daughter has grown two inches, been potty trained, learned how to swim, count to ten and the alphabet, and I feel pretty rough. Give yourself a break and get back to it tomorrow, it'll work out.
Take your time, enjoy your family, the car will still be in the garage. I've spent the majority of the summer in the garage and my daughter has grown two inches, been potty trained, learned how to swim, count to ten and the alphabet, and I feel pretty rough. Give yourself a break and get back to it tomorrow, it'll work out.
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
Offline
I know this doesn't mean anything now, but everytime I build a A-series engine for the street or race, I get rid of the under the car timing tab ( what English moron thought that one up) and move the timing marks to top. Oh and fellas TDC, should be acurately measured and dead nuts on, not a educated guess. You can move it the top to with engine in the car, though a bit more work, but first you need a piston stop for the #1 spark plug hole to determine TDC, and then you can make a pointer and use one of the timing cover bolt/s to mount it to. I'm sorry I refusded to lay under a car to time for anybody, I still scrathed my head on how many Guiness that engineer had drank the night before he designed that.
Re: hs2's /TIMING......hijack
Jack.........
The TDC mark on the flywheel might not be accurate. IF close counts (and it should), you should find absolute TDC by rotating the motor by hand with the plugs out and use a dial indicator thru the plug hole if you can get a straight shot...or...make or buy a positive stop....from an old spark plug...
Rotate to aproxamate TDC and make a pointer that is sturdy enuff so it wont move easily. A very short piece of .125" weld rod with a loop for a bolt on the front of the case works...solid but bendable w/ needlenose.
.....there is dwell when the piston is at TDC due to the crankpin angle so you want to mark the pulley /dampener at about .060" before AND after TDC as the piston rises and falls in the bore and goes thru TDC (exactly the same before and after) and then use a dial verneir or dividers and split the diference between marks on the dampener...... and position the the TDC mark/pointer on that spot. You can use a scribe and small T square to mark TDC on the pulley. Use white paint over it 4 visibility.
You can mark timing settings on the pulley/dampener by measiring the circumfrence and dividing by 360 to find the width of one degree. You might mark the initial and the total timing marks for example.
Jack.........
The TDC mark on the flywheel might not be accurate. IF close counts (and it should), you should find absolute TDC by rotating the motor by hand with the plugs out and use a dial indicator thru the plug hole if you can get a straight shot...or...make or buy a positive stop....from an old spark plug...
Rotate to aproxamate TDC and make a pointer that is sturdy enuff so it wont move easily. A very short piece of .125" weld rod with a loop for a bolt on the front of the case works...solid but bendable w/ needlenose.
.....there is dwell when the piston is at TDC due to the crankpin angle so you want to mark the pulley /dampener at about .060" before AND after TDC as the piston rises and falls in the bore and goes thru TDC (exactly the same before and after) and then use a dial verneir or dividers and split the diference between marks on the dampener...... and position the the TDC mark/pointer on that spot. You can use a scribe and small T square to mark TDC on the pulley. Use white paint over it 4 visibility.
You can mark timing settings on the pulley/dampener by measiring the circumfrence and dividing by 360 to find the width of one degree. You might mark the initial and the total timing marks for example.
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
Offline
Re: hs2's /TIMING......hijack
The most acurate way for most people is a piston stop, CV products sell a piston stop that will work with our spark plug size, it threaded to screw in the spark plug hole and then a thread bolt within it to adjust down for different motor piston types. You would turn the engine by hand in one direction, reference to the pointer, then turn in the opposite direction again reference to the pointer, split the difference and you have TDC. Even with the head off, building a engine, many builders fiquire this to be more acurate method than a dial indicator. I made my own spark plug piston stops years before they started making the trick ones, by taking a old spark splug, grinding the tip and electrode off and driving a piece of steel bar stock into them.
The most acurate way for most people is a piston stop, CV products sell a piston stop that will work with our spark plug size, it threaded to screw in the spark plug hole and then a thread bolt within it to adjust down for different motor piston types. You would turn the engine by hand in one direction, reference to the pointer, then turn in the opposite direction again reference to the pointer, split the difference and you have TDC. Even with the head off, building a engine, many builders fiquire this to be more acurate method than a dial indicator. I made my own spark plug piston stops years before they started making the trick ones, by taking a old spark splug, grinding the tip and electrode off and driving a piece of steel bar stock into them.
jlaird
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Re: hs2's /TIMING......hijack
My engine has not been turned since built. Timeing chain marks spot on and mark on flywheel is straight up as well. Numbers one and 4 pistons all the way up and look to be at the same height to me.
Supose that is TDC? Mark on front pully and arm are not lined up?
Am I forgeting something here? Has been a long long time since I have done this.
My engine has not been turned since built. Timeing chain marks spot on and mark on flywheel is straight up as well. Numbers one and 4 pistons all the way up and look to be at the same height to me.
Supose that is TDC? Mark on front pully and arm are not lined up?
Am I forgeting something here? Has been a long long time since I have done this.
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
Offline
Re: hs2's /TIMING......hijack
Front two valves closed (a double check)
Front two valves closed (a double check)