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How to: Brighter gauge face with LED’s.
- Thread starter AUSMHLY
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BUNDYRUM
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Guest
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Hello dar100,
I bought my LED's and the flasher canister from SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.com
The flasher canister is orange in color so I painted mine black.
When you compare the new electronic and original canisters 2 of the 3 pins that the wires hook up to have the same letter designation so it's not difficult to work out which pin matches the remaining one.
The bulbs are the standard 1157 for the original double filament type and the 1156 for the original single filament type.
They have the same bayonet attachment as the original bulbs with the offset pins which means they go straight in.
bundyrum.
I bought my LED's and the flasher canister from SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.com
The flasher canister is orange in color so I painted mine black.
When you compare the new electronic and original canisters 2 of the 3 pins that the wires hook up to have the same letter designation so it's not difficult to work out which pin matches the remaining one.
The bulbs are the standard 1157 for the original double filament type and the 1156 for the original single filament type.
They have the same bayonet attachment as the original bulbs with the offset pins which means they go straight in.
bundyrum.
OP
AUSMHLY
Yoda
Offline
Hello Ed,
My bad, sorry.
Yes, it is the 5 O'clock position, front reading, on both gauges.
Especially on the Speedometer. Placing a light at 7 O'clock and the light will beam through the bottom counter. Does not happen when the bulb is at 5 O'clock.
Looking at the back of each gauge, place the bulb to the left of the stock black plastic bulb holding tube. Measure twice, cut once. Make sure you leave enough room for the socket base.
Happy motoring!
Roger
My bad, sorry.
Yes, it is the 5 O'clock position, front reading, on both gauges.
Especially on the Speedometer. Placing a light at 7 O'clock and the light will beam through the bottom counter. Does not happen when the bulb is at 5 O'clock.
Looking at the back of each gauge, place the bulb to the left of the stock black plastic bulb holding tube. Measure twice, cut once. Make sure you leave enough room for the socket base.
Happy motoring!
Roger
Ed_K
Jedi Knight
Offline
F.Y.I.
If you install a Tridon EL13 turn signal flasher , the dash turn signal indicator LEDs work without the " bleed over " to the opposite LED. There is no need to use the resistors.
You will have to make a mounting system for this flasher as it doesn't have the mounting tab with hole as the stock flasher has...
It has been great being able to see all of the gauges and indicators, even in the daylight this year ! Thanks again Roger.
Ed
If you install a Tridon EL13 turn signal flasher , the dash turn signal indicator LEDs work without the " bleed over " to the opposite LED. There is no need to use the resistors.
You will have to make a mounting system for this flasher as it doesn't have the mounting tab with hole as the stock flasher has...
It has been great being able to see all of the gauges and indicators, even in the daylight this year ! Thanks again Roger.
Ed
OP
AUSMHLY
Yoda
Offline
Wow a blast from the past is this post.
Hi Ed, thanks for sharing.
Ed, could you provide a link where to purchase the Trident EL13 signal flasher?
Ed, did you add an additional led to the bottom of the speed and tach?
Some upgrade projects I really enjoyed doing. This was one of them. The led's helped us see our gauges much better at night. My surprize came with how well the led lit up the directionals in daylight. It's a real help, in case you can't hear the flasher unit (who can hear it?) and the turn lever does not return to off. Now, in daylight, you can see it's still flashing.
Happy Healey motoring,
Roger
Hi Ed, thanks for sharing.
Ed, could you provide a link where to purchase the Trident EL13 signal flasher?
Ed, did you add an additional led to the bottom of the speed and tach?
Some upgrade projects I really enjoyed doing. This was one of them. The led's helped us see our gauges much better at night. My surprize came with how well the led lit up the directionals in daylight. It's a real help, in case you can't hear the flasher unit (who can hear it?) and the turn lever does not return to off. Now, in daylight, you can see it's still flashing.
Happy Healey motoring,
Roger
OP
AUSMHLY
Yoda
Offline
Hi GregW,
Been down that road already. Yup, took it out, took it apart, fixed it. Works like a charm now!
Just pointing out, that for those that have a trafficator that does not work consistantly, the led will let you know, in the daylight, hey....your blinkers still on.
Greg, I've got other secrete upgrades on working on.
Cheers,
Roger
Been down that road already. Yup, took it out, took it apart, fixed it. Works like a charm now!
Just pointing out, that for those that have a trafficator that does not work consistantly, the led will let you know, in the daylight, hey....your blinkers still on.
Greg, I've got other secrete upgrades on working on.
Cheers,
Roger
Ed_K
Jedi Knight
Offline
I bought the flasher at an Advance auto parts store on the rack with all of the generic electrical parts. Any auto parts store probably has them.
Here is a link to the description;
https://www.midwayautosupply.com/pm-30662...-volt-el13.aspx
...
I did not add a 2nd LED to my tach or speedometer yet.
Here is a link to the description;
https://www.midwayautosupply.com/pm-30662...-volt-el13.aspx
...
I did not add a 2nd LED to my tach or speedometer yet.
OP
AUSMHLY
Yoda
Offline
Thanks Ed for turning us on to the Tridon EL13 turn signal flasher.
My led directional had the bleed over you speak of. Every now and then I said I will look into it and fix it.
So today (because of your post) I went to NAPA and they cross reference the Tridon EL13. Yup, they carry it in their brand. Their part number?...EL-13. How about that. So, if anyone wants an electronic flasher that will stop the led bleed over, NAPA carries one too. And here's the really good news, which is written on the package...Extended life, lasts 10 times longer than thermal flashers.
Reproduction thermal flasher from the usual supects $23.00
NAPA electro-mechanical flasher $11.89
Looks like this flasher may outlast the Healey!
Cheers,
Roger
My led directional had the bleed over you speak of. Every now and then I said I will look into it and fix it.
So today (because of your post) I went to NAPA and they cross reference the Tridon EL13. Yup, they carry it in their brand. Their part number?...EL-13. How about that. So, if anyone wants an electronic flasher that will stop the led bleed over, NAPA carries one too. And here's the really good news, which is written on the package...Extended life, lasts 10 times longer than thermal flashers.
Reproduction thermal flasher from the usual supects $23.00
NAPA electro-mechanical flasher $11.89
Looks like this flasher may outlast the Healey!
Cheers,
Roger
TomFromStLouis
Jedi Trainee
Offline
I am glad this thread is revived because it reminds me that I never scored any LEDs. The source listed above for the positive ground situation ((12) BA9s bayonet HID white high power led bulbs) was out each of the three times I contacted them, so I am open for suggestions.
If anyone can offer a response, please type it very slowly, because electrical matters confuse me very easily.
I cannot even remember if this was the one they did not stock: https://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/6057628/vpcsid/0/SFV/32481
Does that look right Roger?
If anyone can offer a response, please type it very slowly, because electrical matters confuse me very easily.
I cannot even remember if this was the one they did not stock: https://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/6057628/vpcsid/0/SFV/32481
Does that look right Roger?
OP
AUSMHLY
Yoda
Offline
Hello Tom,
I tested a lot of different styled LED's.
The led in the link you provided is not the led that worked as well as the BA9S 1 Watt High Power LED Light.
You'll see from the 1st photo below, how wide the light is dispersed. Most led's like to focus the beam forward.
The one in your link, 2nd photo V-LED's...although it dispersed the light pretty good, didn't work as well overall. Certainly not as bright as the 1 watt style.
Try this link.
https://www.ledlight.com/ba9s-1-watt-high-power-led-light.aspx
Cheers,
Roger
I tested a lot of different styled LED's.
The led in the link you provided is not the led that worked as well as the BA9S 1 Watt High Power LED Light.
You'll see from the 1st photo below, how wide the light is dispersed. Most led's like to focus the beam forward.
The one in your link, 2nd photo V-LED's...although it dispersed the light pretty good, didn't work as well overall. Certainly not as bright as the 1 watt style.
Try this link.
https://www.ledlight.com/ba9s-1-watt-high-power-led-light.aspx
Cheers,
Roger
OP
AUSMHLY
Yoda
Offline
An alternative:
It does take a bit of work to islolate each LED for a positive car.
However, if you want a easy fix to increase the light you have now, I can offer an alternative way.
Replace the 2.2 watt screw bulb in the fuel, and the water/oil gauge with a 5 watt. That will light them up really nice. I tried an 8 watt and it got too hot.
Remove the speed and tach gauges. Gauges facing down, drill one hole in the now back of each gauge. The hole will be to the left of the long black plastic tube (facing 6 o'clock) that holds the light bulb for the high beam on the speed and the red charging light on the tach.
That hole size will be to accept another 2.2 watt screw bulb holder.
Now both the speed and tach will be lit up evenly, top to bottom. It will make a big difference.
Two 2.2 watt fillament bulbs will illuminate the gauges much better. It will also keep the warm light color vs the blue/white color an LED provides. (just for reference, in case your looking to keep the stock brightness color/hue).
I would spend the time to isolate and install one led for the high beam, charging light, and both directionals. Led's are the only way to go there. You want that light as bright and focused forward as much as possible. LED's are much better at that.
Let me know if I can be of any more help.
Roger
It does take a bit of work to islolate each LED for a positive car.
However, if you want a easy fix to increase the light you have now, I can offer an alternative way.
Replace the 2.2 watt screw bulb in the fuel, and the water/oil gauge with a 5 watt. That will light them up really nice. I tried an 8 watt and it got too hot.
Remove the speed and tach gauges. Gauges facing down, drill one hole in the now back of each gauge. The hole will be to the left of the long black plastic tube (facing 6 o'clock) that holds the light bulb for the high beam on the speed and the red charging light on the tach.
That hole size will be to accept another 2.2 watt screw bulb holder.
Now both the speed and tach will be lit up evenly, top to bottom. It will make a big difference.
Two 2.2 watt fillament bulbs will illuminate the gauges much better. It will also keep the warm light color vs the blue/white color an LED provides. (just for reference, in case your looking to keep the stock brightness color/hue).
I would spend the time to isolate and install one led for the high beam, charging light, and both directionals. Led's are the only way to go there. You want that light as bright and focused forward as much as possible. LED's are much better at that.
Let me know if I can be of any more help.
Roger
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i just tried to replace the 12v 2.2w ignition light bulb with the e10 superstar you recommended. There's a problem-- the light doesn't light up and stay illuminated when the key is turned to the on position, it only gives a tiny flash when i turn the key from on to off. i never started the car through all of this mind you...
what do you suggest i try next?
what do you suggest i try next?
Offline
Sorry, I should have mentioned that it's a negative ground sprite.
OP
AUSMHLY
Yoda
Offline
healeynut said:
Sean, try what I did below.
My car is negative ground. I am using the E10 Superstar led as the ignition light bulb. No problem. I turn the key to the on position, with out starting the car, the Superstar led lights up the red ignition and stays lit. When I start the car, the led will fade out, when the car gets up to idle speed.
Here is a photo of the led and a link to where you can purchase it.
1449 E10
https://autolumination.com/otherleds.htm
If the above does not work for you, then you have a problem somewhere. I'll try and help you fix it, as I'm sure others here will also.
Cheers,
Roger
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AUSMHLY said:
I must have a problem somewhere, or a bad E10 Superstar perhaps. I bought 8 of them from the site you mentioned so I have a few extras. I'll take a few bulbs out to the car today to try them and report back later...
Thanks,
Sean