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I'm working on my Midget clutch. The thing will not go in to gear.(Grinds on all gears when the clutch is depressed) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif I checked the clutch travel and have maybe 3/4 inch. Is that enough? I can manipulate the clutch pedal from under the hood and watch the slave cylinder travel. Is the slave cylinder supposed to move over an inch? Also, should I disconnect the slave cylinder from the transmission while bleeding the slave? How do you get to that darn thing? I may be too old for this.
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How much clutch travel?
- Thread starter Gunner
- Start date
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SilentUnicorn
Yoda
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hi Gunner,
The best way to get to the slave is from under the car (safely supported on stands,Please) bleeding them can be a real pain in the butt. i use a mitivac and it works well. another way is to remove it from the bracket and bleed it in the engine bay, still attached to the flex pipe. i would feel that a measured 3/4 of an inch would be enough. Is the cluth good? also Check the bottom of the cluth pedal for fluid leaking from the master.
mark
The best way to get to the slave is from under the car (safely supported on stands,Please) bleeding them can be a real pain in the butt. i use a mitivac and it works well. another way is to remove it from the bracket and bleed it in the engine bay, still attached to the flex pipe. i would feel that a measured 3/4 of an inch would be enough. Is the cluth good? also Check the bottom of the cluth pedal for fluid leaking from the master.
mark
jimmiekeyes
Freshman Member
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We have the same problem and have rebuilt both the master and slave cylinders. Have no more than 1/2 inch or travel. Clutch seems good because ti grabs solidly and will not disengage. What to do?
jimmiekeyes
Freshman Member
Offline
We decided what to do.
I just ordered a new clutch slave unit from Victoria British (actually a texas outfit) and when it arrives next week we'll slip it in and hope that it and the new hose that I ordered to go with it will together do the trick.
It just isn't very likely in our case (1980 MGB w/ less than 100 K miles) that the clutch itself is bad. If the slave unit doesn't get us enough arm travel to disengage the clutch then we'll install a new clutch master cylinder unit as well and keep our fingers crossed.
Time to get some lunch.
Jim Hurley
jdhkeys@terranova.net.
I just ordered a new clutch slave unit from Victoria British (actually a texas outfit) and when it arrives next week we'll slip it in and hope that it and the new hose that I ordered to go with it will together do the trick.
It just isn't very likely in our case (1980 MGB w/ less than 100 K miles) that the clutch itself is bad. If the slave unit doesn't get us enough arm travel to disengage the clutch then we'll install a new clutch master cylinder unit as well and keep our fingers crossed.
Time to get some lunch.
Jim Hurley
jdhkeys@terranova.net.
SilentUnicorn
Yoda
Offline
Most clutch problems are due to not being bled well enough. or not enough travel in the pedal due to worn pins in the pedal. also the plastic flex pipe is notorious for being kinda spongy. when bleeding you need to bleed the master cylinder first. usually done on the bench. this assures that air doesnt get trapped in master cylinder. and when bleeding be sure to keep the resevior full, if it runs out you might as well start all over. good luck
mark
mark
Thanks
I found the little cover on the inside on the floorboard. That will help some to get at the mounting bolts to the slave cylinder and also the bleed valve. I think I'll replace the hose first, then the master cylinder. This looks like a new slave cylinder.
I'll let you know.
I found the little cover on the inside on the floorboard. That will help some to get at the mounting bolts to the slave cylinder and also the bleed valve. I think I'll replace the hose first, then the master cylinder. This looks like a new slave cylinder.
I'll let you know.