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How can I tell if the polarity has been changed on

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bighealeysource

bighealeysource

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Hey all,
I know this is a dumb question but I just bought an "almost"
completed BN6 restoration project. By that all the drivetrain
has been completely redone, new wiring harness, etc but the
fellow I got it from is "not sure" if the polarity was
changed from positive ground to negative. It has a new
gear reduction starter and converted over to one 12 volt versus
two six volt batteries. I just purchased a new battery
but as I am not sure about the polarity was looking for
advice on how to check. Probably something real simple but
I don't want to risk burning up my new wiring harness or
worse. Thanks for any help.
Regards,
Mike
 
Hook it up for negative ground. Even if it hasn't been converted, the generator will eventually polarize itself (though the procedure is dead-simple and only takes a minute).

What's your BN6 VIN#? Mine is BN6L 942. I'm always interested in finding/comparing other examples, either earlier or later.

We need pictures! :smile:
 
Well Mike here are some things you might check:

1} look at the terminal on the battery ground cable and see which terminal of the battery it fits.

2} Look at the coil if it is the original one it will have the terminal "CB" connected to the distributor If a later aftermarket coil id installed the polarity of the terminal {+ or -} routed to the distributor should establish the polarity to use.

3} look at the Fuel pump it will tell you its polarity and may shed some light on the cars polarity too.

I can not guarantee these conditions in a molested car but cumulatively they may help you dscide.--Ewiw--Keoke
 
I'd look behind the tack first to see in the loop has been spliced in two places. This is a must on the alteration and is very easy to see.
TH
 
tahoe healey said:
I'd look behind the tack first to see in the loop has been spliced in two places. This is a must on the alteration and is very easy to see.
TH
Click to expand...
Good Call :yesnod:

But TH, what if he be smart! or lazy and only cut one side of the line then wind the loop in the reverse direction and put it back. Oh! he also used White shrink tubing so folks coulcn't tell.--Keoke-- :laugh:
 
Bust my chops, will you. If that was don' he doesn't have to check further. He can always check everything else if the tack looks un-altered.
 
Just curious, what loop are you talking about on a mechanical drive tach? On my '63 BJ7, I just reversed the battery, coil leads&polorized the regulator. That was 20+ years ago.Everything worked great.
 
Genos2 said:
Just curious, what loop are you talking about on a mechanical drive tach?

--- :nonono: Electronic Tach. Has a polarised pick up loop on the back.
--
On my '63 BJ7, I just reversed the battery, coil leads&polorized the regulator. That was 20+ years ago.Everything worked great.

--- You should have also reversed the fuel pump and polarized the Dynamo
Click to expand...
 
Sorry,its been awhile,think I put a solid-state electronic pump in it.Think I polarized the regulator,cheers
 
tahoe healey said:
Bust my chops, will you.

- :nonod:--Naw just windin you up a bit. But some of these folks be sneeeeeeeaky;--- :laugh:

If that was don' he doesn't have to check further. He can always check everything else if the tack looks un-altered.
Click to expand...
 
So while youse two be yackin' was it decided that BigHealeySource also doesn't have the white wire loop behind his tach? :banana:
 
:savewave:-----Shhhhhh

::yesnod:

:nonono: Wire loop for BigHealey Source. :nonod:---- :lol:

---------------------------Keoke
 
GregW said:
So while youse two be yackin' was it decided that BigHealeySource also doesn't have the white wire loop behind his tach? :banana:
Click to expand...
Hard as heck to cut and loop that tach cable; I'd rather just guess if the engine is running and ready to be shifted to another gear.

I had seen it was a BN6 (I tune in to those things) but I did overlook the coil (blush). The SU pump that was on mine when I swapped polarity didn't seem to care if iw was + or -. Current pump is a Facet interupter type, negative ground.
 
Hey Y'all,
Thanks for all the feedback ! Tach isn't hooked up yet, installed in a redone
dash assembly. All I have hooked up right now is the wiring harness is installed,
ignition switch, starter button and a oil pressure gauge so I don't have oil everywhere ! I haven't had a chance to look over everything yet but will get back with the results and post some pictures .
Thanks,
Mike
 
Hey Randy,
My BN6 is BN6L964 so not far from yours. It's black with red coves and going to have a red with black piping interior. I'll post a shutterfly address with some pictures on it. Going to look at the polarity issue tomorrow to see what I have !
Regards,
Mike Lewis
 
bighealeysource said:
Hey Y'all,
Thanks for all the feedback ! Tach isn't hooked up yet, installed in a redone
dash assembly. All I have hooked up right now is the wiring harness is installed,
ignition switch, starter button and a oil pressure gauge so I don't have oil everywhere ! I haven't had a chance to look over everything yet but will get back with the results and post some pictures .
Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...
guess that ends da argument..
grin.gif
....U guys is funny!!!!! :lol:
 
Guess that ends da discussion, YEP:

He ain't got no radio!-- :banana:

--------- :wh---------- :wh------- :wh-----Keoke-- :laugh:
 
bighealeysource said:
Hey Randy,
My BN6 is BN6L964 so not far from yours. It's black with red coves and going to have a red with black piping interior. I'll post a shutterfly address with some pictures on it. Going to look at the polarity issue tomorrow to see what I have !
Regards,
Mike Lewis
Click to expand...
Thanks, that is the closest to my VIN that I have yet found. I'd have to dig out my certificate, but <span style="font-style: italic">I think</span> mine was "finished" on the 15th of May, 1958, so I bet yours was built within a day or so of that.

For some strange reason, mine was titled as a 1957 when I bought it in San Francisco, 4/1/1978. It was ten (10) years later that I found out it was assembled in 1958, but I still call it a 57 :wall:

If I had it to do over again, black with red would be my choice. The original color of mine was blue with white, but at the time I started to restore it, of the eight (8) Healeys in Lafayette, Louisiana, seven (7) of them were Healey Ice Blue! Since there's a fair amount of deviation from stock, I decided to change the color too...

I'll look forward to seeing pictures of your car; in the meantime, here's some of mine:

IMG_5445.sized.jpg


High resolution: https://www.rfdm.com/albums/album107/IMG_5445.jpg

IMG_5455.sized.jpg


Big one: https://www.rfdm.com/albums/album107/IMG_5455.jpg

More pictures in my gallery (it's okay to ignore the BMW stuff):
https://www.rfdm.com/gallery/albums.php?set_albumListPage=4
https://www.rfdm.com/gallery/albums.php?set_albumListPage=7
https://www.rfdm.com/gallery/albums.php?set_albumListPage=12
 
Hi Mike,

Real simple way to check...
Turn on the ignition and see if your fuel pump sucks gas out of the tank or not. If it sucks gas out, then whatever polarity the battery is connected to is correct. If it sucks gas from the carbs - reverse it.
This is of course assuming that everything was running before you got the car.
Hope that helps.
Rob
 
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