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Still ticked off that I dropped my TA shims in a pile without making note of what went where. How about this--install the trailing arms with my new GoodParts adjustable brackets without springs or shocks and no axles installed. Free swinging, if you will. Now, I can have some 1/4" aluminum plates cut, say 20" or so, and drill them in the center to bolt up accurately to the trailing arms' 6 bolts on each side. Voila! All I have to do is use a bubble level to raise or lower the TAs to get the proper "ride height", ie, straight vertical on each side. Then, cross chassis, measure each plate onto the other to adjust toe-in, etc. Should give me fairly accurate measurements. After everything else is installed, take it to an alignment shop to check it out. Is my thinking all wrong here or am I onto something (patent time?)? Or am I all wet?
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How about this bright idea? TA shim gizmo
- Thread starter TR6BILL
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I think you're getting to the heart of it, Bill. All ya want is to get the toe-in back there to something close to neutral. The "unloaded" plan is easier to fuss into compliance than assembling/disassembling the whole thing over and over. The geometry you're trying to dial in won't care about spring load, rather about where the individual wheels are aimed when in their "normal ride" height....
..we can discuss "bump-steer" when you get to adjusting the caster and camber.
..we can discuss "bump-steer" when you get to adjusting the caster and camber.
Bill
I have been tracking your plight and was wondering how much the cars vary. I currently have my car completely apart to put in the new rear and front towers from RATCO as well. I did tape the stacks of shims in each location for future reference. Would a count or measured set thickness get you close enough for the proverbial hand grenades? As I understand it you are merely trying to get it close enough to venture cautiosly the 30 or so miles to the alignment shop. If this would be of help please let me know and I can get you the info tomorrow.
Elysium
I have been tracking your plight and was wondering how much the cars vary. I currently have my car completely apart to put in the new rear and front towers from RATCO as well. I did tape the stacks of shims in each location for future reference. Would a count or measured set thickness get you close enough for the proverbial hand grenades? As I understand it you are merely trying to get it close enough to venture cautiosly the 30 or so miles to the alignment shop. If this would be of help please let me know and I can get you the info tomorrow.
Elysium
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I suspect the chassis vary enough from one to the next that it would be just as good to take a WAG as to have another car's setup info... but that's just my opinion. I still like Bill's approach to put it up without being sprung and attempting a zero-zero toe at nominal ride height as a "best bet" starting point.
elysium said:
Absolutely, Elysium. Appreciate it if you would. Oh, and I was supposed to get pics of my new Ratco cross member install. Cept one of my sons hijacked my camera. The install was not that bad. The secret to installing the "C" channel plates is to (shudder) grind the inside lip of the frame. You will come close to the meat part of the spot welds that holds the frame together but not do any damage. The idea, according to Tony at Ratco, is the long notch is what really holds the clamps from slipping, if that makes sense. I realized that a BFH came in handy and really jambed the channels in tight before welding. Used very large C-clamps to hold them tight, too. Oh, and something that came in real handy was the fact that I will still use the BPNW tube shock conversion towers. Luckily, I had the foresight to install these onto the new Ratco piece before the professional welder showed up to really weld them down, there is the chance that the Ratco piece can move from side to side, even a few millimeters and bolted to the differential. Remember, the diff is rubber mounted and slightly flexible, the point is-the shock towers both rubbed against the body with the Ratco piece. Had I not installed them before welding, would never gotten one or the other in after welding without pure luck. Make sense? Also, the clip that Tony includes with the setup to reinstall the OE lever shock is totally unnecessary if you aren't using this shock. It is fairly bizarre on how you would fit it anyway, very obvious that the lever shock needs to be installed before welding. Good luck. Wish I had a camera.
