TR2/3/3A Hints on sealing the sump gasket.

[CJD]

On a fresh engine you should easily be able to dial the regulator to 70-80 psi at 2500 rpm. Wonder if the oil system has a leak, maybe exasperating the external oil leak?!?

 

[sp53]

Hey David If the leak is in the front and not the side, my experience is that the cork gaskets on the bridging piece are leaking back through or between the front plate. I have fixed those by cutting the cork so it fits just right and then aviation gasket sealer all over the cork, or omitting the cork altogether and filling in the gap with orange silicone with pan off from the back side and inside the engine. I know it is risky having big chunks of silicone maybe coming lose, but the way the silicone keys itself into the bridging H piece it seems to work and that is after many years.

 

[DavidApp]

I did set the regulator to 70 using an air setup. Had to regrind the seat to get it to seal and added a bit to the spring so the adjusting screw was not bottoming out. After that I could get it to blow off at 70 and seal at 65+ with air.
When it is cold and during warm up I do maintain 70+ it is only when everything is hot it drops. Not as much now with a new pump.

I think I can see a small gap between the front plate and the engine block at the bottom on the drivers side. Can get a 0.005" feeler in a little way. It is possible I have the wrong length screws holding the plate and they have bottomed out in the holes and are not clamping the plate tight.

Have to check in the morning.

David

 

[sp53]

Yes some of those bolts bottom out and some go through into the motor. The ones on the front plate that go into the aluminum bridge block bottom out. Let me know if you need to know something exact. I do have an old block out of the car. The information might be in the parts catalog; if not--- I can find it out--- no problem. I remember pulling out those 2 on the bottom front center once because I used to long of bolt and sticking a probe to get the depth once, I think.
steve

 

[DavidApp]

Hello Steve.

Thank you.

It looks like the 2 bolts on the drivers side. The one below the timing chain cover and the first timing chain cover bolt. Do not think it is the one in the bridge. I will pull them out in the morning and check the length on the bolt.

This leak has been getting progressively worse. At first I thought it was the rear main seal but now I can see where it is originating from.

I have spent way too much time under the TR in the last few days. At least I am standing up.

David

 

[Graham H]

I have an oil leak from the front and I'm almost sure it's coming from the cork gasket in the aluminum bridge block I spent a long time trying to make them fit when I was doing the engine rebuild and was never happy with them. I had a play around with it recently but only made it worse, it's hard to get anything to stick when oil is dripping out.

Graham

 

[sp53]

Heck yes David stand back a couple of days at least and let this thing percolate. I thought the same thing--- that this guy is swapping out pan gaskets like he is 18 years old. Plus I remembered you are older than me and when you standing up, I would mean standing up straight and not be in severe pain in the whole back area—youth is wasted on the young.

 

[DavidApp]

When I built the house 30 years ago I put an inspection pit in the garage. It was no problem at the time because I had to build that area up so I had the mason block up the pit then back filled around it. Over the years it has only been used a few times. These last few weeks I have lived down there. It is deep enough that I can walk around under the TR easily.

I have looked at the bridge and almost pulled it out last time I had the pan off but decided it was not the issue. I may have been wrong.

David

 

[TomMull]

Have you tried putting some goo on the bolts themselves?
Tom