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TR2/3/3A Hints on sealing the sump gasket.

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DavidApp

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I had an oil leak from under the engine. I thought at first it was the rear crank seal but on inspection it seems to be the sump gasket. I am also still working om my oil pressure issue so I removed the sump to check the pump and fix the leak.

I am now getting a leak at the front of the sump on the drivers side. I have checked that the mating face is as flat as I can get it. Using my table saw table as a reference.

Replaced the sump twice now and it has leaked in the same area.

I am using Permatex Ultra Black advanced gasket maker. Applying a thin bead on the sump then placing the gasket on the sump then applying a thin bead on the block side of the gasket. I have been putting 4 headless screws in the block to help align the sump as I put the screws in the block. Torquing the screws to 20 ft lb.

David
 
No suggestions for you but I'm very interested in any that anyone else has since I just reached the exact same conclusion about my own long term oil leak and purchased a new oil pan gasket.
 
The area round the pressure gauge banjo fitting looks dry. It seems to be coming from the very corner of the sump in the front drivers side.

I have an inspection pit so I can stand under the car with it running to try to trace the leak. Hope it is not the timing chain gasket.

David
 
DavidApp said:
The area round the pressure gauge banjo fitting looks dry. It seems to be coming from the very corner of the sump in the front drivers side.

I have an inspection pit so I can stand under the car with it running to try to trace the leak. Hope it is not the timing chain gasket.

David
Click to expand...

I'm probably being pessimistic but the timing cover has been known to leak where the tensioner finds a way to hit it, which it seems to do.
Tom
 
DavidApp said:
I had an oil leak from under the engine. I thought at first it was the rear crank seal but on inspection it seems to be the sump gasket. I am also still working om my oil pressure issue so I removed the sump to check the pump and fix the leak.

I am now getting a leak at the front of the sump on the drivers side. I have checked that the mating face is as flat as I can get it. Using my table saw table as a reference.

Replaced the sump twice now and it has leaked in the same area.

I am using Permatex Ultra Black advanced gasket maker. Applying a thin bead on the sump then placing the gasket on the sump then applying a thin bead on the block side of the gasket. I have been putting 4 headless screws in the block to help align the sump as I put the screws in the block. Torquing the screws to 20 ft lb.

David
Click to expand...

Replacing all the lock washers on the sump was a big help in eliminating my oil leaks. The lock washers fail to do their job after a few re-fits and they are probably the original washers.
I would have to keep re-tighting them, compare an old washer with a new one.
Making sure the oil breather cap was very clean also helped, allowed less pressure on the crank case.
Cheers
Colin
1961 TR3A
 
Black RTV is very slick. I learned years ago that if I coated a gasket with it and then immediately torqued the oil pan to spec it would split the gasket. When using RTV now I only torque half way during the initial installation. Then, the next morning I bring the bolts to full torque after the RTV has set.
 
Personally I woiuld ditch the RTV and use permatex #2,And torgue to you feel tight with some crush,dont over tighten.I only use "gasket maker" when no gasket.
Tom
 
Hello John and Tom

Thanks for the tips.

Looking at the gasket I have just removed I see areas around some bolt holes where the gasket has been crushed. The gasket RTV did not seem to be stuck to the pan.
The gasket I am using is one from Moss. It is black and seems a bit soft and the holes seem a bit large thus reducing the material around the bolt hole.. Thinking of getting a roll of gasket material and making my own gasket.

Got new lock washers and some #2 sealer.

David
 
I made my gasket out of Federal Mogul Vellamoid .060 thick which worked perfect.Not sure if its still available.Stay away from anything that cracks when you fold it.

Good luck
Tom
 
Just made a gasket from Karropak Tan Fiber sheet. I could only get 1/32" thick .

Used new spring washers, Permatex #2 and hae not fully torqued the bolts. Will add a bit to the torque in the morning. Going for about 10 to 15 Ft lb.

David
 
Just read through this, good luck. Sounds like you are doing all the right things, but chasing leaks in our old British cars can be a hard test of skill and patience.
 
That should do it. I have sealed 327 Chevs like that ---Geo had a post years ago and he took I believe some black silicone or something put that on the pan and then let it dry some on the outside then put a piece of glass or something down to get a flat plane, but I forgot how he got the glass off perhaps the little drying time made it so. In addition he would mention resist torquing too much.
 
If this doesn't fix it, then it has to be something farther up and trickling down. The ole' "trickle down" politics
 
Update.

The new pump gives me 20 lb at idle and 50+ when driving at about 2500 rpm. The old one was dropping down to 15- at idle and would drop to 35 to 40 at 2500 while driving.
I had checked the internal clearance and end play. All looked OK.

The oil leak seems to be coming from above the oil pan from under the front engine plate. Could be from the oil gallery plug or the gasket.
Looks like I will be taking the engine out this winter.

David
 
Very sorry to hear that. I forget...did you determine the 50psi is a calibrated pressure reading?
 
I did check it a while ago against a new gauge and it was very close. Under reading by a 2 or 3 pounds.

At first I thought the leak was the rear seal and I was going to have to get the engine out for that when I swap out the transmission. Looks like it will be working on the other end.

David
 
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