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HELP!!! We have suddenly have NOTHING to drive!
- Thread starter GaryBeu
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Fuel filter, pump or vacuum leak.
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GaryBeu said:
you can bypass the fuel filter - longer hose or small pipe junction.
might also be a carb blockage - the thing that makes me leery of it being the filter is that, if it were blocked, the whole engine would quit - not just two. One carb quits (or restricted) and that could produce the symptoms.
Installed new fuel filter and new rotor. Went for a test drive and it's better but still backfires under heavy acceleration. Came home and installed new plugs. Started her up and she won't go into any gear...just grinds!! Cluth MC is full. Transmission level was just below 'low' so it's now full. Still won't go into gear. If I put it in gear, depress the clutch, and start it will begin moving even with the clutch depressed. How can these things just happen like this? I have no idea what is wrong or what to do now. Poor, poor, pitiful me, huh???
ps. Forgot to mention that two days ago I realized that the shifting was a slight problem at times. Checked the clutch MC and it was almost empty so I filled it. Did not bleed the system. Could that be the problem??
ps. Forgot to mention that two days ago I realized that the shifting was a slight problem at times. Checked the clutch MC and it was almost empty so I filled it. Did not bleed the system. Could that be the problem??
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You just have no end of fun with that car!
sounds like you are close with the running. Is there oil in the dashpots? that sounds very much like what is left to do.
In terms of the clutch - sounds like you will need to bleed it. Also sounds like you have a leak - is there any evidence of leakage? BTW - brake (clutch) fluid will eat your paint so don't leave it sit!
sounds like you are close with the running. Is there oil in the dashpots? that sounds very much like what is left to do.
In terms of the clutch - sounds like you will need to bleed it. Also sounds like you have a leak - is there any evidence of leakage? BTW - brake (clutch) fluid will eat your paint so don't leave it sit!
JP...Duh, bleeding the clutch, of course, did the trick. 
I just took it for a run of about 2.5 miles with brand new plugs and I'll post the photo of them that I just took!! I have oil in dashpots but haven't torn the carbs apart. I did take the covers off the float bowls and the fuel,etc. looks clean in there. How far would I have to tear down the carbs to find out anything?
A friend of mine just suggested that I have a vacuum leak around carb gaskets...could this be it?
I just took it for a run of about 2.5 miles with brand new plugs and I'll post the photo of them that I just took!! I have oil in dashpots but haven't torn the carbs apart. I did take the covers off the float bowls and the fuel,etc. looks clean in there. How far would I have to tear down the carbs to find out anything?
A friend of mine just suggested that I have a vacuum leak around carb gaskets...could this be it?
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Gary, those plugs are too rich, I suspect they are clogging causing the misfire. See this article:
Reading spark plugs
Here is our previous conversation (when you came on board) - I think it is the same thing. Lean out your carbs - start with two flats and see what happens. adjust carb mixture
Here is an article about SU's (to completely overwhelm) https://britishclassicmotors.com/3301.html
I don't think it is a gasket since it doesn't seem to be idling rough - which it would be.
In terms of blockage, I would simply start by taking the top of the float bowls and checking for crud, but, those plugs are nasty - do the mixture first.
Reading spark plugs
Here is our previous conversation (when you came on board) - I think it is the same thing. Lean out your carbs - start with two flats and see what happens. adjust carb mixture
Here is an article about SU's (to completely overwhelm) https://britishclassicmotors.com/3301.html
I don't think it is a gasket since it doesn't seem to be idling rough - which it would be.
In terms of blockage, I would simply start by taking the top of the float bowls and checking for crud, but, those plugs are nasty - do the mixture first.
Doc...got the new rotor from O'Reilly's.
I put the old rotor back in, took off the dashpots and ran the valve seat up even with the bridge, adjusted toward rich 1 1/2 full turns, made sure dashpots had oil...car would barely fire and wouldn't run. Adjusted both toward rich a little at a time until it started and idled with 2 full turns + 2 flats. Drove and still got backfires from rear carb. Pulled the plugs and #1 & #4 look good, #2 & #3 are black. How can this be??? Checked compression yeasterday and it shows #1 175psi, #2 185psi, #3 180psi, #4 180psi. Seems high but all close to the same. Still stumped...
I put the old rotor back in, took off the dashpots and ran the valve seat up even with the bridge, adjusted toward rich 1 1/2 full turns, made sure dashpots had oil...car would barely fire and wouldn't run. Adjusted both toward rich a little at a time until it started and idled with 2 full turns + 2 flats. Drove and still got backfires from rear carb. Pulled the plugs and #1 & #4 look good, #2 & #3 are black. How can this be??? Checked compression yeasterday and it shows #1 175psi, #2 185psi, #3 180psi, #4 180psi. Seems high but all close to the same. Still stumped...
