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General Tech Help TR-6

G-POP

Freshman Member
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Good morning . Im new to the forum and have recently bought my dream TR-6 . Im 69 so it took a while. I have been going over this car I bought from the second owner. He may have stretched the truth a bit on condition. So I have a couple questions if you dont mind. Im waiting on new DGV webber carb kit to change out the DFVs im told were never issued to this engine. What jetting have you guys settled on for spirit road driving . Ive made the drive train and stopping repairs now Im onto the engine. It runs pretty good overall. 55 psi cold and about 38 hot. One of the carbs is wasted so im replacing both hench the jet question. Any suggestions on the Delco style electronic dist with tach drive . Or are we into a different brand. I have the original with duel vac dashpots ? Ihad santa bring me uprated coils and they are the 1" drop. Im also holding the .5" spacers to get to original height. Last would be how to check the trans fluid . What to use and how much. Thank you very much ! Come on SPRING ! FjR68
 

poolboy

Yoda
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One of your statements really caught my eye.
" Im waiting on new DGV webber carb kit to change out the DFVs im told were never issued to this engine. What jetting have you guys settled "
Did someone tell you that the TR6 ever came with Weber carbs...DGV or otherwise ?
 

G-POP

Freshman Member
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Yes I was told while its a great upgrade the 32/36 DGV and manifold are what most kits contained. I have a pair of 32/36s but DFV . The a/f mixture screw is in the elbow of the sweep on the intake, They actually (Looks Like) the took a round file and made a recess for the head of the screw to fit. Take off the air filters and use 9" needle nose pliers to turn them. Not saying the car didnt come with webbers , just that the model DFV was first choich because of the arrangement. I was told while the new carbs will work out of the box. You can tune much more power hence the jetting question. Im totally new to British cars . I am not new to cars or motorcycles. I just sold my rock climbing CJ way to altered to start explaining. I was the first in 48 yrs I didnt own a bike. Just want to be able to get in an boogie down some back roads this summer. Thanks FjR68
 

Tybalt

Jedi Trainee
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I am kind of amazed that somebody was able to fit DFVs and get them to work. The default Weber progressive two barrel for Triumph applications is the DG_V which is in mirror image to the DF_V. And there in lies the rub. Both DF_V and DG_V are progressive carbs with a primary and a mechanically operated secondary. This means that unlike say a DCOE, there are different jetting requirements between the primary and secondary sides of the carb. The DCOE acts as two single barrel carbs that share a common float bowl. If we were talking DCOE or Dellorto DHLA, I would have a reasonable comfort level providing specific information. Unfortunately, my experience with the DF_V and the DG_V is very limited and I'm afraid that anything specific that I told you could very well be wrong.

My guess is regardless of your source for these carbs, ultimately in the US they can be chased back to Redline. If they were purchased directly from an offshore, I'd still recommend contacting Redline for jetting recommendations and find out how they jet them compared the standard jetting on a Weber carb number 22680.033B, the model of 32/36 DGEV listed by Redline as being supplied with the K156 conversion kit for the TR250 and TR6.
 

glemon

Yoda
Bronze
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No help with the Weber's. Oil pressure sounds good, for distributor upgrade many have the distributor rebuilt by Advanced Distributors, drop the vacuum retard (which was purely an emissions thing, check your local laws, but most cars that old exempt) keep the vacuum advance and install a Pertronix electronic module to replace the points, the Pertronix is very reliable and about a 15 minute install in the existing distributor.

Tons of parts and support available including here.

Welcome aboard.
 

G-POP

Freshman Member
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Tybalt thank you . I did speak to Randy at redline (Owner) with his help I find these are "China knockoffs" they dont have any of the webber makings other than DFV. The biggest issue is the DFV rotates clockwise to open and the DGV is CC. Manual choke so no -e- . Im told they will work off the shelf just not peak power. I may not worry about this for now.
glemon Thank You So If I read this right I can buy just a single advance unit and the Pertronix system and do it myself. Any part numbers by chance or go through one of the two suppliers Ive found
 

poolboy

Yoda
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Are you expecting a performance enhancement by having Weber DGV instead of what was originally installed... ZS carbs ?
Matter of fact, I could ask the same thing about Pertronix vs points and condenser ?
I'll leave the Vacuum Advance topic alone...even though I had it installed on my distributor a few years ago.

Maybe I should have more to say...Pertronix and/or the Vacuum Advance...don't start out from day one with either of these if they are not already on the car...Try out what you have and if you buy the Pertronix and Vacuum Advance hype, make the switch and see for yourself if they live up to it.
 

G-POP

Freshman Member
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poolboy Thank you. I just bought this car and the second owner stretched the truth a bit on her condition ! I missed driving her altogether before winter set in. But its safe and now im onto the engine. One of the carbs has a pretty good vac leak at the throttle shaft so I looked for replacements having no luck in Ct. finding a rebuild shop. In all the research , I find DFVs were never selected for this app. the strombergs were just okay Im told. Go webbers is what I was led to believe was a great upgrade. Finding out they arent true webbers and China knock off didnt surprise me to much. So yes Im expecting some amount of performance increase and yet I have no base line to back it up. As for the Electronic dist , I just assumed it would be better than points. At 69 yrs old. Ive had my fill of them ! The stock dist has the add/retrd dashpot and I will either change that out or change the dizzy altogether. Ive read the Pertronix change is reliable and simple . Sounds like what Im looking for. Id like to fast road drive this car maybe even a track day with my son. But mostly I like reliable
 

poolboy

Yoda
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Well, if you don't mind taking advice from a 75 year old, I think you'll be better off with points and ZS carbs.
You'll find that's what most TR6 owners have and have dealt with ...and more able to supply first hand information and help if you need it.
 

Tybalt

Jedi Trainee
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Tybalt thank you . I did speak to Randy at redline (Owner) with his help I find these are "China knockoffs" they dont have any of the webber makings other than DFV. The biggest issue is the DFV rotates clockwise to open and the DGV is CC. Manual choke so no -e- . Im told they will work off the shelf just not peak power. I may not worry about this for now.
glemon Thank You So If I read this right I can buy just a single advance unit and the Pertronix system and do it myself. Any part numbers by chance or go through one of the two suppliers Ive found

The other significant difference between the DF_V and DG_V is the position of the primary and secondary sides of the carb are also flipped due to them being mirror images of each other. There were also some Holley carbs (52xx series) that were DF_V (IIRC) knockoffs made under license from Weber. Those were used on Pintos and Vegas.

Just to clarify, it sounds like you have ordered up some DG_Vs to replace the DFVs that you currently have. If the money is spent already, fit them and make sure the linkage you have works with them in the event you did not buy a full conversion kit. Linkage bits should be available through Redline if needed. On the other hand, if you haven't pulled the trigger on your credit card yet, I'm with poolboy on this. Were it me, I'd be trying source some appropriate ZS CD-175 carbs (first choice for someone new to these cars) and linkage or failing that, one of the SU HS6 conversions (second choice).

Unless you plan on lots of engine modifications, I would stay away from the Weber DCOEs or similar. It's too much for a stock or even relatively stock engine. Plus they are never "right and ready to use" out of the box. By the time you gather up the various bits to tune them to a TR6, you're easily looking at $1K or more in venturis, jets, emulsion tubes, velocity stacks, filters and such.
 

Madflyer

Jedi Warrior
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I am not a strict stock guy but a lot of the TR 6 is bullet proof. I would go with Poolboy & Tybalt. I have the CD-175's they are the most self adjusting carbs, what I mean if you go above and below 4000 feet they work better than any Webber. I live at 4500 feet and take roads above 9000 feet and down to sea level I also have Pertronix that I question and held off for years. I found with the hotter coil quicker starting when cold. I also thing better torque at low-end speed. I would like any input on that.
Start with this book from Amazon From British Leyland ( TRIUMPH Competition Preparation Manual ) It is pricey along with the Robert Bentley hand book and workshop manual. The TR 's have a strong following here so you cam to the right spot. And last find a club.
Suppliers You may look into TRF, Moss ( not so much ) British Parts Northwest, Rimmers Brothers, Summit Racing, Rock Auto, 16 Racing wheels.
Madflyer
 

Bob Claffie

Jedi Knight
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I suggest getting the car to ran as well as you can make it using 99% original stock parts. Once this is accomplished start changing things toward more improved performance ONE THING AT A TIME.

My opinion of Weber carbs is negative based on hearsay as I have no experience with them, likewise my opinion of Stromberg carbs is no better based on their usage on a Spitfire I once owned. Personally given the choices I would opt for a SU conversion. They are tried and proven, bulletproof with parts and knowledge readily available

On Pertronix , they are great until the stop working ! I've used them but I am now back to points and condenser and will not be going back. A very unnecessary change for little to no advantage.
 

poolboy

Yoda
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If you do notice a difference in torque with the Pertronix, Madflyer, I'd have to think it may have been due to a ignition timing adjustment,
I've gone back and forth a couple times between points and Pertronix Ignitor (not the Pertronix Ignitor ll) and each time I've had to rotate the distributor a bit.
The pertronix ignitor sits in a slightly different place in the points plate than the breaker points did and breaks or 'ignites' at a slightly different point of reference with respect to the rotor if that's not compensated for with that slight reorientation of the distributor
I'm pretty sure you are familiar with Jeff Schlemmer of Advanced Distributors....I don't know if it still holds true but a few years ago he discouraged installation of the Pertronix specifically in the TR6 Lucas 22D6 distributors.
Some people swear by the Pertronix others swear at it.
I don't have anything bad to say about it, just a word of caution about leaving the ignition key on when the engine isn't running, even if it's done for troubleshooting purposes. That can kill a Pertronix Ignitor before you know it.
 

Madflyer

Jedi Warrior
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poolboy that could be it as I was in the middle of a number of changes at the same time. I do carry a set of points and such just because. The ing. key switch is also another issue. When I worked in the elevator trade some of the newer equipment used magnets and solid state controls always had problems that why I was slow to switch.
G-POP you got a great car if I say so myself and buying a car with limited knowledge can test ones wisdom. I bought a Jeep CJ 5
In all get some books find a club and ask many questions.

Madflyer
 

steveg

Yoda
Gold
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I've been running a Jag 22D6 on my Healey for a couple of years - bought it at a yard sale and had Jeff Schlemmer overhaul it and curve it for the Healey*. I wanted a top-entry cap to run a Pertronix II which requires modern resistance wires. Top-entry caps not available for the stock older-Healey DM6.

I read online some British racers traced Pertronix problems to unreliable grounding through the various joints in the distributor, so I ran a separate ground wire from the base plate of the Pertronix unit to the car chassis.

Pertronix II has built-in protection against frying thru leaving the ignition key on.

FWIW, am running points in my TR6.

* I removed Jeff's points in favor of the Pertronix.

screenshot.2590.jpg
 

G-POP

Freshman Member
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Poolboy , age is just a number ,till you try to get outta bed in the mornin :) Advice is accepted from anybody . These carbs were on it when I bought it. So Im going down that road first. Yes Ive looked at cams , having the head milled even a V-8 swap Thred. At this time I want to just drive the second finest car I ever wanted to own. Thanks for your response again.
TYBALT , Yes the DGFs were on it , yes he lied about it being cold blooded when cold. Its the throttle shaft air leak that made the car not want to stay runnin. Yes , all the info In my noggin is from RANDY at redline. I sent pictures and he had me do several dirrerent adjustments to prove its the carb. He also proved to me they are not actual Webbers. Yes I busted the card wide open and bought the complete kit as the linkage as you said the carbs are mirror to each other. I just want to get it done and right. I did complete front end over , Brakes front and rear, New master , new coils. Yes he stretched the truth but its over I now know she is safe , now I want her to go. Any help is appreciated.
BOB , I dont have a choice . To make it run well , I have to replace parts. I only know they came with Strombergs and While its a double edge sword. Yes they are like any stock carb , reliable . I also know that every ten degrees might have you under the hood for an adjustment. Thats the fun part , right ?
MADFLYER I just sold my CJ-5 rockclimber. There isnt a thing you could ask , I wouldnt have an answer. 19 yrs of building , modifying , fabricating. This car is in great shape now , Im glad I have one , its red like everyone else's. Would so have loved a Yellow or that poke you in the eye blue one. Dont need electronic dizzy , just so done with points. Took a Chevy 250 truck dizzy and milled the shaft to fit the AMC drive gear. I went through 2 units. I rotated the dizzy so the element wasnt between the dizzy and engine block. Never melted another unit. Things can be done to fix engineer mistakes .
Thank you all , and as I learn how to do pics , I will. Now "Come on Spring"
 

Madflyer

Jedi Warrior
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G-POP As I did enjoy the CJ and had other Jeep lines. The CJ was to be kept at my mountain property. Being in California at the time The smog was missing and there was a 4X4 shop that helped with a lot of used parts. I had a full cage role bar over size tires and wheels for mud and snow. My first Insurance Co. canceled all my cars saying they would not ins. CJ's or anything else I had so getting new Ins. was a pain until I found AAA that I still have today. The CJ is long gone and I have been into LBC for more than 30 years. I guess it is about BOYS AND TOYS.
Age is the days one looks into the past youth is the days one looks in to the future. Madflyer
 

poolboy

Yoda
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The only reason I mentioned age, my age , was because of this comment made by G-POP:
"I just assumed it would be better than points. At 69 yrs old. Ive had my fill of them ! "
Frankly I didn't get the relationship between points and his age....so I just thought I'd say that points are still just fine with me....so whatever.
 

G-POP

Freshman Member
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PoolBoy Its okay if you want to run points and condenser . Im going to add Pertronics or change the whole distributor keeping the Tach drive. Im staying with the Webbers as most of what I have works with them. I found a set of Strombergs and intake no linkage . So I could easily spend half the money on used stuff Vs. Brand new. I really just asked if anyone setteled in on a jet size with Webbers they like so I could do it before I install them. Thanks for all you replies
 
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