HELP! My car won't start.

[2wrench]

Okay. Got the thing to pop after turning the gear cog 180.
Didn't continue to start on advice. I believe she was ready to fire
up. Again, it was aborted.

Next question: If it were to go, is it okay to run it with the valve
cover off or is that a problem?

Also, when she starts, I suppose the first eyes-on would be the
oil pressure. If I don't get pressure, then abort running, of course?

I'm running on a little bit of nervous energy/excitement right now,
so please keep this in mind.

 

[2wrench]

Got the drain plug off and filled the tranny. Letting her drain off
excess fluid.

Back to the parts store for neve seize stuff for the tranny plug replacement.

Getting to be very exciting.

 

[poolboy]

After all this, you deserve to be excited. You can run it for a while w/o the valve cover. It will get a little messy with some oil splattering.
It won't affect your oil pressure readings. Of course, some of the oil will not make it's way back to the sump. So keep that in mind, It won't be that much at low rpms.

Got to ask, what oil did you put in the tranny and is it 4 speed or have OD ?

Oh yeah, when you are trying the starter, don't be afraid to turn the dizzy as the engine spins. Not a lot, a half inch or so in either direction, slowly. When you hit the right spot the engine should start to run. Keep your dizzy loose enough to do that.

 

[2wrench]

Cool, Poolboy. I put Hypoid, SAE 75W90 gear oil API/GL-5 Plus
purchased from Napa. Hope it's good.

I've returned from the store....again....with the anti-seize and will be
replacing the plug. Hope there is not problem with the tranny gear
selection.

The tranny is one I've just upgraded to an overdrive. Not all electronics
hooked up yet; speedometer cable disconnected. Sorry, but I just want
to hear her fire and run.

 

[TR3driver]

Running for a bit with the rocker cover off is something I recommend every time you set the valves, to ensure that the entire shaft is getting lubed properly. However it does tend to throw tiny droplets of oil around, so I wouldn't do it for long.

Re oil pressure, My suggestion is to remove the plugs and spin the engine with the starter until the pressure comes up. Much less load on rubbing surfaces than with it running. Then it will come back up much faster when you do fire the engine (and reduce concerns that there might be a problem).

 

[poolboy]

You're right Randall about starting up an engine that's been sitting or a rebuild that way, but in this case it might not be necessary, because unless I'm mistaken, 2 wrench has already been spinning it trying to get it started.

 

[2wrench]

Okay, Started, but a bit rough. Doesn't idle on its own. Worst
concern????

Got oil dripping out of the back of the head. Quite a leak. Looks like
a screw or something should be in there. Youch! Can anybody help?

Nice little puddle of oil on my garage floor. While I await, I'll
make reference to the books.

 

[2wrench]

Had the head rebuilt by the machine shop. Looks like maybe a plug or
something is missing out of the back of the head. The head is kinda
not so wet with oil as I'd like to see, but never havin done this, I
don't know.

Oil pressure at the gauge at about 50 lbs and oil dripping, again, out
the back of the head, like at the back left corner on the driver's side.

 

[2wrench]

If I leave my web page open to this thread and just hit the refresh button,
will I get your responses right in front of me?

 

[poolboy]

It will smooth out as it warms up. I'd be ready to rotate the dizzy to see if you can get the timing to smooth things out. Once you get that far you can set it with a light or better yet, by road test when you get it road worthy.
Then after you get the timing or at least a smooth running engine, it'll be time to set the carb mixture and finally synchronize them.
But you've come a long way already this afternoon. Congrats.

 

[poolboy]

There is supposed to be a threaded plug and sealing washer back there to seal an oil passage.I bet the Moss catalog will show it.

 

[2wrench]

The distributor is with the screw removed and turned to the right so far
it could not be screwed into place there.

Gotta stop till I get the oil thing dealt with.

 

[tdskip]

Cool, Poolboy. I put Hypoid, SAE 75W90 gear oil API/GL-5 Plus
purchased from Napa. Hope it's good.

Actually - I'm not sure GL5 is good. Recommendations that I have seen are all GL4, evidently GL5 can negatively impact the brass parts in the transmission.

I'd get a second opinion at least.

 

[2wrench]

Okay. I'll drain and change it if it's wrong.

 

[poolboy]

OK. after you figure out the oil leak, take a look at the Dizzy. The clamping plate (moss# 543-135) is screwed/bolted to the block with the dizzy in it. The actual dizzy can rotate in the clamping plate and is clamped in place after you get the timing set by tightening a hex head bolt on the clamping plate. The bolt is in the horizonal plane, there is a "captive" square head nut on the other end of that bolt that does not turn as you loosen and tighten the clamping bolt. The only thing that will limit the rotation of the dizzy when you do it properly is the tachometer cable in the clockwise direction and the vacuum retard unit in the counterclockwise direction. Your sweet spot should be pretty close to the limit of the clockwise direction. The tach cable keep you from overdoing it.
From reading your post, I'm thinking you are trying to adjust the timing by turning the dizzy while it is clamped tight in the clamping plate and then trying to line up the holes to mount the clamping plate to the engine. That won't work. Bolt the plate tight to the engine and keep the clamping bolt loose so the dizzy will rotate but not the clamping plate.

 

[2wrench]

Missing an oil feed plug on the back of the head. Will take a few days
to get it shipped. Dang. Gotta pull back on the reins.

 

[poolboy]

Standing by. In the meantime you might want to look into the Tranny oil contraversy. If you come to the conclusion that you need GL-4, NAPA supplies Stalube GL-4 in quarts.

 

[TR3driver]

Before you go replacing that GL-5, check the can/bottle and see if it's rated MT-1 as well. If so, it should be fine, IMO. Some GL-5 oils can accelerate wear of brass components (synchro rings, thrust washers), but not all of them do. The MT-1 rating was created to differentiate oils that are safe for Manual Transmissions.

Your point is well taken, poolboy, but it sounded like he had not seen oil pressure since it was built. Kind of a moot point now anyway

If I'm not mistaken, those are standard bolt threads on that plug. You could likely get by with a suitable bolt, nut and copper washer; until the proper plug comes in. Spin the nut up the bolt as far as it will go, add the washer and turn the bolt into the head by hand until it stops (hits the bottom of the threads). Then tighten the nut against the washer.

 

[2wrench]

Before you go replacing that GL-5, check the can/bottle and see if it's rated MT-1 as well. If so, it should be fine, IMO. Some GL-5 oils can accelerate wear of brass components (synchro rings, thrust washers), but not all of them do. The MT-1 rating was created to differentiate oils that are safe for Manual Transmissions.

Your point is well taken, poolboy, but it sounded like he had not seen oil pressure since it was built. Kind of a moot point now anyway

If I'm not mistaken, those are standard bolt threads on that plug. You could likely get by with a suitable bolt, nut and copper washer; until the proper plug comes in. Spin the nut up the bolt as far as it will go, add the washer and turn the bolt into the head by hand until it stops (hits the bottom of the threads). Then tighten the nut against the washer.

Randall: It does say: "API Svc. Designation: GL-4, GL-5, MT-1 & Proposed PG2," on the
back label. Hope that makes it cool. Oh, and it mentions: "For complete fill or topping off of manual transmissions."

 

[2wrench]

Randall: I'm going to try to move into a little more patient mode.....
(reserving the right to flake on this).....because I've got these issues:
Like my darned speedo angle drive is just not right....wrong part or
something wrong there. Figure I might get some leaks if that's not
installed right. So, I'll just cool it till the parts come in. Take a
look at the dizzy. Should understand it better by the time the parts get
here, huh?

Now I have my recently painted hood....and my newly acquired hard top
in the livingroom.

Love my wife!