Heat shields and other hot topics

[CessnaTPA]

Ok I'm getting overwhelmed on the best way to tackle the heat problem. Hardy board is now in question if it does any good. Called the manufacturer of dynamat and they suggested dynaliner for the heat and wouldn't hurt using dynamat under it.

I guess there are 101 ways on eliminating heat in this car and just need to pick a plan and go with it. I just drive myself crazy when there are so many choices.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Ok I'm getting overwhelmed on the best way to tackle the heat problem. Hardy board is now in question if it does any good. Called the manufacturer of dynamat and they suggested dynaliner for the heat and wouldn't hurt using dynamat under it.

I guess there are 101 ways on eliminating heat in this car and just need to pick a plan and go with it. I just drive myself crazy when there are so many choices.

I suggest that you call British Car Specialist and see what they say(talk to David). I purchased my insulation boards from them and I believe they came from AH Spares.

 

[Keoke]

I just drive myself crazy when there are so many choices.

Do What Dynamat said and you will be OK

 

[healeyblue]

OK I gave my links to what I did and it is very effective, so I don't have much more to say. But on the subject of the Hardie board, I feel of it more as a visual than an actual heat barrier. Yes it does creat a radiant barrier as long as it has the air space between the metal beneath, but there is still heat transfer with it in place. If you think about it compared to the original asbestos board (which is generally considered far better than the Hardie board), it still did not do its job of stopping heat transfer into the cabin. These cars suffered heat transfer when they were new. I did not use Hardie board because it was better than the original stuff, only because it looked similar. I rely on the modern heat materials I am using to stop the heat transfer (and I was completely successful). Under the floor of the car I think the number one heat transfer stopper was the muffler blanket. After running the car around town and up to operating temp, I can touch the muffler's heat blanket and it is warm but will not burn my hand. That would not be possible other wise. That being said I think the main area of concern for heat transfer should be in the footwell area. I have driven an unmodified BJ8 and after about 20 minutes my feet became unbearably hot. My layer of heat shielding and the jute padding play the big roll there. Be diligent and leave no corner or gap unprotected. Overlapping joints are the best too to prevent transfer. I used a foam seal under where the trans cover mounts down to make it air tight. The same for the bellhousing cover at the firewall.
Good Luck
Jim

 

[HealeyRick]

With a V8 under the hood, I went out of the way to insulate. I, too, got good results from the DEI self-stick material above the mufflers. A lot of the stuff I used wouldn't work for a concours car, but really helps if you don't need to go original. If I was restoring from the ground up, I'd definitely go with Lizard Skin and probably add additional layers of insulation on top of that. One thing that can't be stressed enough is to seal up all the pathways for air to get in from the engine compartment to the interior. Shine a light in the engine compartment and look under the dash, You'll be surprised where the light (and hot air) can come through. Here's my build page: https://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,8264

 

[CessnaTPA]

OK I gave my links to what I did and it is very effective, so I don't have much more to say. But on the subject of the Hardie board, I feel of it more as a visual than an actual heat barrier. Yes it does creat a radiant barrier as long as it has the air space between the metal beneath, but there is still heat transfer with it in place. If you think about it compared to the original asbestos board (which is generally considered far better than the Hardie board), it still did not do its job of stopping heat transfer into the cabin. These cars suffered heat transfer when they were new. I did not use Hardie board because it was better than the original stuff, only because it looked similar. I rely on the modern heat materials I am using to stop the heat transfer (and I was completely successful). Under the floor of the car I think the number one heat transfer stopper was the muffler blanket. After running the car around town and up to operating temp, I can touch the muffler's heat blanket and it is warm but will not burn my hand. That would not be possible other wise. That being said I think the main area of concern for heat transfer should be in the footwell area. I have driven an unmodified BJ8 and after about 20 minutes my feet became unbearably hot. My layer of heat shielding and the jute padding play the big roll there. Be diligent and leave no corner or gap unprotected. Overlapping joints are the best too to prevent transfer. I used a foam seal under where the trans cover mounts down to make it air tight. The same for the bellhousing cover at the firewall.
Good Luck
Jim

Thanks Jim and everyone else for all your suggestions.
Good or bad my game plan is to skip the hardy board , seal every crack/ hole and use 1/2" dynaliner and possibly a heat shield wrap from Lowe's. If those don't achieve good results I'll add the exhaust wrap and blanket..I'm also toying with the idea of using 1.5" AC duct board I already have, installing under the floor boards, they are foiled on one side and flame resistant.
I have a infrared temperature gun and will do before and after tests and post the results..

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Thanks Jim and everyone else for all your suggestions.
Good or bad my game plan is to skip the hardy board , seal every crack/ hole and use 1/2" dynaliner and possibly a heat shield wrap from Lowe's. If those don't achieve good results I'll add the exhaust wrap and blanket..I'm also toying with the idea of using 1.5" AC duct board I already have, installing under the floor boards, they are foiled on one side and flame resistant.
I have a infrared temperature gun and will do before and after tests and post the results..

If you put thick insulating material on the inside of the car you could have a problem with the carpet fitting.

 

[CessnaTPA]

If you put thick insulating material on the inside of the car you could have a problem with the carpet fitting.

I'm getting a new carpet from Moss and called them today and the guy I talked to wasn't any help saying call a upholstery shop. Called Dynamat and he claims 1/2" shouldn't be a problem.. I've never installed carpet in a car, am I setting myself up for a nightmare install?
They sell dynaliner in 1/8, 1/4 & 1/2 inch.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I'm getting a new carpet from Moss and called them today and the guy I talked to wasn't any help saying call a upholstery shop. Called Dynamat and he claims 1/2" shouldn't be a problem.. I've never installed carpet in a car, am I setting myself up for a nightmare install?
They sell dynaliner in 1/8, 1/4 & 1/2 inch.

I purchased my interior from Heritage and the carpet jute was about 1/2" thick.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I purchased my interior from Heritage and the carpet jute was about 1/2" thick.

I used the same stuff in this link below and the stuff for the floorboards was thin so it was not a problem.
https://www.astraldimensions.com/healey/insulation.html

 

[GregW]

A lot of the stuff I used wouldn't work for a concours car

LOL. Like the engine Rick?

 

[andrea]

I have posted on one other side of BCF this useful suggestion for increase insulation on AH-:

Don't forget one simple modification that increase a lot the driver comfort (feet temperature) AH plant never insulate the pedals zone of cars- one simple panel to add, that are very useful
https://picasaweb.google.com/1127708...81281308008706
I have used one piece of material that in Italy was named "Ceramic insulation" - Not dangerous and efficient. used on stove application
the place where the panel is placed is one of the more exposed at high temperature, see the thermal photo
https://picasaweb.google.com/1127708...38515512638146
also insulation ribbon was added to the exhausts pipes (in the same zone the pipes are at few cm from your feet)
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770819864514987162/REBUILDINGAUSTINHEALEY10061958BeginningMayJune2011endMayJune2013#5717210010154678386
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...ridgeCARPETSAndINSULATION#6040286672597616594
A commanded MOD for hot sun lands
This sketch can help in the cut of the floor insulation panel
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770819864514987162/BN4LongbridgeCARPETSAndINSULATION#6040286672597616594
it is also in my album dedicated to insulation and carpeting 100/6
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770819864514987162/BN4LongbridgeCARPETSAndINSULATION#

 

[HealeyRick]

LOL. Like the engine Rick?

Well, there is that.

 

[MikeAH100M]

Andrea,
Great pictures and ideas. The thermograph was vey helpful. I found several sources of rigid "Ceramic Insulation" in the US. One question. Why the single hole in the insulation that you used to insulate the pedal zone? (That's also the area I've targeted to insulate on my BN2).
Thanks

 

[MikeAH100M]

I found a product supplier in the US that has a ceramic insulation board with very low heat transfer that is used in applications over 1000 degrees. They indicated that they have customers that have successfully used it in automotive applications as a thermal barrier. It is called Duraboard500ES. Spec is .25” x 13” x 38” @ $20.72/pc. Supplied by Thermal Products in Georgia. https://www.thermalproductsco.com/index.html. I ordered and will try it out. It can be cut with a saw and drilled.
Thermal Products Company, Inc.
4520 S. Berkeley Lake Rd.
Norcross, GA 30071-1639
770-662-0456770-242-6210 (Fax)

 

[andrea]

Andrea,
Great pictures and ideas. The thermograph was vey helpful. I found several sources of rigid "Ceramic Insulation" in the US. One question. Why the single hole in the insulation that you used to insulate the pedal zone? (That's also the area I've targeted to insulate on my BN2).
Thanks

Hi Mike
I must ask to my wife's oven supplier, Why a single hole to the thermal protection ? (I suppose was for the electrical connection)
Cheers

 

[bertrand]

I have a BJ8 and read all these comments about HEAT with great interest. Tried several insulating mats and others, but basically it doesn't help much. The question is, why does it happen with the Austin Healey and rarely with other sports cars? I have a TR6 and an MGB GT V8 and suffer no such problem with these cars.

I think first of all, the radiator of the AH is too small and there is virtually no space to install a larger (wider) one. The design of the body and firewall don't allow a proper evacuation of the heat under the hood.