• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

head bolts

thegoodbeamer

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Re 1963 Spitfire

Any advice on removing the headbolt/studs from the block
I used Areo Kroil penetrating oil to no avail.I now have dribbled some acetone around them plus more penetrating oil
Will keep doing this for a few days before trying again

The 2 nut system to remove will not work as they are in there pretty solid.I would worry about breaking them as that would have the pressure at the top of the stud.I tried a small pipe wrench but again worried about twisting them so now will wait and see for a few days before trying again
 
I've usually had good luck with a stud extractor such as this one (picture from Harbor Freight):

image_3005.jpg
 
That was quick Andrew.Thanks
Will have to look at getting one as it should sit right close to the deck
 
These work OK (tool pictured by Andy), if you have them square on the block. I managed to crack mine nearly in half and think it may be because I was working the ratchet around the long stud and didn't get it firmly in place. They are reasonably priced though, at least the 'made in China' versions. And, there may be more than one to choose from of similar design.
 
I also just resorted to the head bolt extractor pictured above. Worked a treat (together with a 24" breaker bar). Buggered up the threads, but putting in new ARP studs anyway. The studs do not need to pass all the way through the extractor -- getting the groved cam wheel on the top 3/4 inch or so will do the trick.

Rob.
 
AEW said:
And, there may be more than one to choose from of similar design.
The one that KD tools offers is somewhat more substantial, IMO, since it has the shaft supported on both ends. I used mine for many years, but finally managed to strip the teeth, using all my strength plus a 30" breaker bar.
 

Attachments

  • 24604.jpg
    24604.jpg
    8.5 KB · Views: 253
Don't remember. Just that I have used one.
I think so though I don't think they were that stuck
 
Well I went and got a stud extractor.Was on sale for $8.93

Worked well.Had to use a pipe on the ratchet.Only problem I snapped a stud using the 3/8th drive ratchet by hand tightning up the extractor.It was like welded in place.Nowhere near the force I used on all the others.I heated and sprayed penetrating oil a couple of times for each stud
Drilled the stud and used a screw type extractor.Broke that.Chipped away with a pick till it was broken up.Damaged the threads so now I have to get a heli coil.Talk about things that can go wrong
 
Sounds like most of my projects!

Use the head to line up your helicoil...just a degree or two off will cause untold (more) grief. Good luck...

John
 
Hi John
I definiltey thought that would be the only way to go.I will drill the block on the drill press when I get to stripping the block completely
Chuck
 
GBRandy said:
Anyone ever use one of these?

1.jpg
Yup, I've got a set of those as well. They work real nice if the stud isn't stuck too badly. But at least in my experience, they won't take as much torque as the one I showed above.
 
Back
Top