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Tips
Tips

Had no brakes...Why?

LOL Now I feel even dumber, because I was expecting something with more parts to it. I figured that that couldn't possibly be it. Thanks!
 
I want to tread softly but firmly here... the M/C rebuild should include a process of some import: hone it with a "brake cylinder stone" and visually inspect the bore for any pitting or rust. THAT will determine whether or not you need a replacement master cylinder. Just throwing a kit at it will likely work for a little while. But you do NOT want to be out among 'em when it doesn't anymore.
Me gran'far counsel'd: "Don't matter how fast it goes if it don't stop right."

A really good investment is a factory workshop manual. Better is to have it AND some after-market books. Haynes are acceptable, most repair processes are covered well.

And of course this place has any number of well experienced folk willing to aid with step-by-step when you start the deed. We've even done it in near enuff "real time" in several instances. :wink:
 
Haynes will get you thru any of the projects that it seems like you're capable of...at this time.
You'll learn more and gain confidence and skills as you go along. and when you're ready to rebuild the engine and tranny, you might want the Bentley.
 
As Doc noted the internal condition of the MC matters.

Are there any Triumph clubs or folks local? Offer to buy a beer or hot chocolate to someone local who can coach you through all of this. It is one of these things that will be easy once you've done it but it helps to have a coach.
 
Personally I found the Haynes manual to have enough info to enable me to do a complete restoration including engine overhaul. I have not seen the Bentley so I have no opinion although I have heard much good about it. Like poolboy said start with the Haynes.
Here's a good site for brake info. It is not for the Spitfire and includes more then you are involved with but has several good sections to help you with your project.
If your master is too pitted there are several places that can repair it.
https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Theory/Theory.htm
 
Yesterday I got the Spitfire home, via flatbed truck. Is it possible that the ride home may have shaken some air bubbles out of the system? Because I drove her up and down the driveway and then out onto some quiet dead end streets, and the brakes worked pretty well. I had it up to 40 mph and stepped on them hard and she slowed and stopped about as well as I remember from last year. Pulled a little to the left though. Pedal did not go to the floor and was pretty firm. Weird!

Buying the Haynes manual tonight...

Also, Anybody have a good aftermarket alternator they like? I KNOW I need to replace that from last year.

Again, many thanks!
 
Are you using silicone dot 5? I had a similar issue,had no brakes and loss of fluid but no leak. I bled them very slowly topped it off and no more problem. my guess is air bubbles in the fluid.
 
79Spit said:
Is it possible that the ride home may have shaken some air bubbles out of the system?

Sure it's possible. Of course that didn't "fix" the problem. Happy reading on the manual - you'll be a brake expert in no time!
 
DrEntropy said:
Me gran'far counsel'd: "Don't matter how fast it goes if it don't stop right."

Words to live by...literally.

It sounds like it works again. Please do not get suckered into that. Redo the system.

It's one thing to have your engine blow up at 65 MPH and you pull over to the side of the road cursing.

It is quite another to be doing 35 MPH in town and some kid runs out in front of you and the brake pedal goes to the floor.

If you want to pinch a penny, do it elsewhere on the car.

Wish you were closer as I would gladly help you....
 
:iagree: Blew a hose in my truck once and nearly took out a liquor store. Would have been a great loss. --elrey
 
Having had my share of brake problems and outright failures in 42 years of driving, I can't say enough for a: maintaining the brakes as best they can be maintained; and b: making especially sure that your emergency (parking / whatever euphemistic or politically correct and legally acceptable term you want to use) brake is the same!
 
Well put, and quite to the point. Clearly, the wise thing to do is re-do the system. Doesn't cost too much and just think what I'll learn! LOL I may have to ask for some help in assembling a shopping list of stuff to buy for the project though.

This group's patience and enthusiasm about this issue has been nothing short of stellar. Once again, many thanks!

Todd
 
You're among fellow enthusiasts and friends here, Todd.

Your car survived thru forty years of existence, now you have the responsibility to keep it going forty MORE!! :jester:

Seriously (mostly), the idea is to keep these things rolling to enjoy them. The doing of the various tasks necessary to that end should be part of the enjoyment. Face it as a challenge, a learning experience. Ya get lessons in practical physics: mechanical systems, hydraulics, electron chasing, the lot. Along with a reliable (kinda-- :wink: ) rolling example of your ability to grasp the subjects!

...and ya get to meet a lot of interesting folks along th' way. :laugh:
 
Bleeding of hydraulics is almost a normal maintenance item. My Jag toolkit has a bleeder hose and a can.......don't recall if it WAS brake fluid or to catch old fluid when bleeding.
 
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