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Tips

Had no brakes...Why?

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I concur with the above. It's not that hard, and part of the "dues". Unless you don't want to do it and would rather pay the mechanic. Most likely leaks (talking from a TR6 PoV) - rear wheel cylinders, master cylinder, PDWA. It's fairly easy, just takes some time. If you don't have that or the inclination, then job it out.
 
I have a bench bleeder that I got from a local parts emporium some years ago at my shop.
Tomorrow, I will dig it out and get a name and part number. It worked like a charm when I used it last.
Will post tomorrow. I think it was made by Bendix
 
When you filled the front chamber did you fill it high enough to flow over the dam into the rear chamber? If not you won't get any pedal.
 
Flat-bed it home, go thru the entire brake system one component at a time. Start with the M/C, work to the rear. After that you have intimate knowledge and won't be caught out over a brake system issue ever again. :wink:

OH! And you can practice driving without using the hydraulics AFTER you fix 'em. ...for the NEXT time! :jester:
 
Rats. That would have been good to know earlier! LOL I spent a lot of time, like 20 minutes, pumping the brake pedal continuously today, but the vast majority of it was when the level was just equal to the bottom of the bottom most holes that lead to the upper chamber. I finally thought that that upper chamber may need to be the feeder and filled it high enough to flow into it, but I didn't spend too much time pumping after that was done. I looked over the components to the system (hoses, M/C, etc), and under the car at all four tires. I saw no leakage at all, anywhere. I did see this article online, and I do think I can probably do the job myself (with help from some automotive-type friends, so now I just need to get it home.

https://www.theymightberacing.com/Projects/InSitu/TS78/BrakesRefresh.aspx

I traveled the route, and it is 95% flat or uphill, so I MAY try it later today. Going to go back to the garage now and pump some more, now that the upper chamber holes are covered.
 
The level in the reservoir is not going down at all I can pump a lot but a level stays the same. Does that mean trouble with MC? Does it matter if the car is running or not?
 
You don't have an Owner's Workshop Manual specific to your car ?
Invaluable information lies within it's pages
 
79Spit said:
The level in the reservoir is not going down at all I can pump a lot but a level stays the same. Does that mean trouble with MC? Does it matter if the car is running or not?
Click to expand...

Shouldn't make any difference with a Spit if the engine is running. I would think that if you have no pressure and the fluid isn't going down in the brake reservoir their must be something plugged up in the master cylinder. If the system is empty, when your pumping the brakes should, the master cylinder should pump the fluid into the system and you would see a corresponding drop in the fluid level in the reservoir.

I had a GT6 for many years and had no end of problems with leaky brake master cylinders. I rebuilt the Master cyl. many times and it would be OK during the summer but as soon as it got cold the seals would shrink and all the fluid would dump out into a puddle in the driver's side foot well. I got to the point that I just routinely kept a quart of brake fluid in the car to top off the fluid every morning then I'd pump it up until I got some pressure and it would be good for the day.

I wouldn't recommend it (I was young and stupid) but I drove my GT6 for a couple of years without brakes. I got very good at using the engine and the emergency brake to stop the car.
 
If the master reservoir was empty, you could very well have an air lock.
I have some universal bench bleeders, but what we mostly use is our fingertip or thumb.
Get a can of water to wash off the fluid. Water neutralizes brake fluid.

Remove the line to the end not working (ONLY), have an assistant slowly, lightly press down on the brake pedal while holding your finger lightly (no spray) over the hole. If you got air, you'll see and feel it.
Halfway down, tell the assistant to "hold", press firmly over hole, have them slowly release peadl.
Do that until it's clear and steady, release pedal, release finger/thumb.
Re-attach line, firmly, crack it oh, 1/4 turn or so, and have him or her re-depress the pedal, tightening and releasing, until the line quits "spitting", rinse all the brake fluid off master and firewall.

Now, do the end that works (to make sure), and report back.

That's how most shops do it, even if they tell you they use a bench bleeder.

Bench bleeding done the same, except a large Phillips screwdriver or push on the clevis with flange mounted in vise.

Dave
 
I decided on the safer method and, since AAA transport was "free" (that's what I pay dues for, right?), I had it flatbedded home to my driveway. I had him lower it onto the street, and I drove it into the driveway. When the clutch was depressed and I was coasting, I definitely had some brakes again. I put it away for the day, but will try to see how much braking power I have, in a parking lot somewhere, tomorrow. Then I will see if I need to start addressing a re-build.

By the way, I REALLY appreciate all the timely responses and insights! You guys ROCK!
 
I gotta ask - you wrote alot of pedal pumping. Are you opening a bleed somewhere?
 
Holy....no, it's okay. You are pumping into a deadhead, and nothing will move.
Gotta open one end, and if it was me, I'd do master first (as I spelled out earlier), once you have good presure and no air, you may be set if the level was low, and leaked a little bit in storage.
That is, until you do it all.
If spongy, start at one corner and work around.
If you have a bad wheel cylinder, you're going to get a lot of air at the cylinder.
DO NOT use an open-end wrench....flare nut on lines, box end on bleeders, and be careful.
 
George said:
"Sure sounds like the thing to do is fill and bleed and look for any leaks as you go as it could be almost any component but should be easy to find once there is fluid, not air, in the system."
Andrew said:
"Sometimes, new or "dry" dual-circuit Girling cylinders can be a pain to bleed, which is why some advocate "bench bleeding" them. You've got nothing to lose (except suffering from a leg cramp) by pumping away madly awhile longer to see if you can build ANY pressure at all (keep an eye on the reservoir to make sure the fluid level doesn't drop too much). Frankly, I'd try that before wasting a lot of fluid bleeding a system that might have either a leak or an internally failing master cylinder, etc.!"

So, bleeding was covered.....
 
TOC0 said:
So, bleeding was covered.....
Click to expand...

Maybe in a post, but doesn't sound like it in reality. There is obviously a leak- either in the master cyl, or the wheel cylinders. My best guess is a master cylinder leak at the back seal. That's the sort of leak that happens when sitting.
 
Boy, you are right on that. Followed closely by wheel cylinders.

That, and a vehicle that is in Connecticut......I sent enough time IN Connecticut to know, if you want rust, that's the place, and even in 1970, the "vehicle inspections" included (and I watch him do it), a pull of the knee to the chest and NAIL the brake pedal.
They knew rust and steel brakes lines can and will cause brake line failure.

If it's leaking, and dry at the back of the master, and the hoses are dry, and the wheel cylinders/boot seals are dry, needs to be on a rack, get underneath while it doesn't have spring rain all over the underside of it, and look at the dry lines externally for wet spots.

And, yes, in a post....problem is we all read that, and figured it had been accomplished.

Now he'll get it bled, and all will be well with the LBC world....unless he snaps a bleeder off.
 
I guess I was thinking that the bleeding or the re-build of the system would take place when I got the car home. Everybody may have assumed the car was in a place where I could work on it. It wasn't. Job 1 was to get it home safely. My apologies if I misunderstood the offered advice.
 
Adding fluid & pumping MIGHT get you home - worked for me once (TR6) - but if there's much air in the system, it won't. Yep - overhaul time.
 
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