• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Wedge Going to look at a 1980 TR7 on Thursday

Only difference is the picture's now on the right side of the screen, but out of range - still have to scroll over to see everything.

Using IE 7 here.
 
But my response is now on page three of the thread, first entry, and it's all on the screen. It's only when you post a picture.

Anyone else have this issue?
 
Curiouser and curiouser. I get the entire thread on one page (though I have to scroll down to see it).

What is your screen size in pixels? I am running 1920x1200 on both computers, which might be the difference.
 
Looks like 1280x1024 - set at maximum.

What's odd is that it does this every time you post a picture. No issues with just about everyone else. And as long as you don't post a picture, the text all appears on the screen without having to scroll over to the side.
 
DanB said:
Most 80 model TR7s that I have seen have the steel wheels.....

Really? I had a new one back in the day and it came with magnesium wheels....as did every other one I had ever seen at the dealer. The folks in our club that have the 1980 cars are all magnesium rims.

I certainly could be wrong....but I am pretty sure the 1980 cars (TR7 & 8) came with the magnesium wheels. The steel wheels were pre 1980. With all the aftermarket changes on these cars I am not 100% certain.....
 
Mine are steel, and I doubt if Ken changed them as he was the first owner. What do the magnesium wheels look like? TR8 wheels?
 
Not to go over the door panels over and over but...
They are correct, tartan was an option.This car has plain vinyl doors. My car looked EXACTLY like this one does.(vinyl paint made it look perfect)In fact I am sure under the seat covers are crappy corderoy seats. For some reason the headrests and door armrests do not fade like the door panels. My car even has the exact crappy carpet. Someone has changed the center armrest,I'm sure the original was broken.(most are). One other thing to check is the stick shift play. most need bushings and other repair. Mag wheels are also an option.
 
The wedge is way underrated as a vehicle. That said, there are examples out there that are certainly worth a premium, but... that one as shown certainly is not one of them >_< I paid under 4k for my absolutely fantastic condition very original, very low mile TR7 with the only real issue being that the original owner loved the car too much, and the paint's been over-buffed over the years.

(the other issue being that the AC system needs some love, which is what I'm trying to sort out right now on it)
 
Mickey Richaud said:
Hey, Randall -

Somewhat off-topic, but each time you post a picture it skews all the text to where it's expanded beyond the right-side margin.

Is there a way you can adjust the pictures you post that will fix that?

Mickey

Mickey,

Not having any issue here with IE 9 on Windows 7. Screen resolution is 1280x800 on my wife's laptop.

I have seen that issue before but not recently and not with this thread.

Scott
 
90% of the TR7s around here have the steel wheels. Just the Spider and the TR8 had the magnesium wheels I thought. I'm not a 7 expert.

My friend who was the Triumph dealership service manager has a TR8. In fact an 82. He thinks it was one of the last 25 made. He found out I was looking last year for a wedge and tried to get me to buy his 8. He wanted 10k and too rich for my blood. But what a nice driving car. Smooth, responsive and fast!
 
I had the same problem on page 2. Had to scroll to the right to see everything. the rest of the pages are ok

I just talked to the guy with the 7 and he said 8 years ago when the bought the car it had water in the tank and they took it to a shop and had the repairs done. Ran great thill this year. He thought there was an ignition cutoff switch that was keeping it from starting. However I reminded him the it starts if spray start is sprayed in it.

I plan on doing a compression test and checking for some of those issues listed earlier. This will be a least a learning car for me. I don't know why he is asking so much but I'll find out tomorrow.

My friend I mentioned earlier with the 8 knows someone that was trying to sell him a TR8 clone for $1200 last fall. It has a Buick 215 engine in it from the 60's. I not sure what trany it has. There was some other issue of a short that burnt part of the dash and needs replaced. He is out of town and I have to wait another week for his return to go see it.
 
Looking at the picture what the car is a built in 1979 but is for the 1980 Model year. The interior, dash and wheels are correct for a TCT TR7 which it most likely would be. The check interiors appeared late 1979 sometime around September/October with black dashboards and then full check with gray dashboards in November 1979 onwards. The steel wheels on the car have trim rings which came on the 30th anniversary edition TR7s that could have had a TR8 steering wheel, trim rings, special centercaps, AM/FM radio, luggage rack, striping kit, fog lamps and a dash plaque. Anyone could have put put trim rings on the car. Now there is a change in the rear axles in 1979 from the 3.90 to the 3.45 ratios. The tell tale sign is unless a previous owner changed it is the car will have a double bulge hood/bonnet with the black dash. The deal with the rims that a TR7 could have had TR8 alloys applied by the dealer or dilevered by the factory, no tracability on that, steel wheels with trim rings and center caps (30th Anniversary), Full size plastic covers or dealer installed alloy/magnesium rims (Shelby or Wolf Race).

Things to look out for:
Mechanicals-if the head was ever replaced or repaired. Timing chain issues, Zenith Carbs automatic chokes. Coolant leaks or staining. Transmission fluid or clutch if crunching into 2nd or 3rd at high rpms.

Body Rust-Shock tower, floor to lower control arms, bottom of front lower fenders (ahead of the wheels), rear lower fenders (Black part), Battery Tray, spare tire well, rocker panels. I would also look for crash damage.

Suspension-worn/split bushings for rear lower control arms, soft/sagging springs, blown shocks.

Spit hoses for the gas vents and if any the wiring looks like it has been messed with make sure check all the swtiches while the car is running and shut off: hazards, turn signals, dash and marker lights, highbeams low beams, both headlights go up and down, horns, alternator charging. The car should run between 1/4 and 1/2 max on the gauge warmed up. The rear brakes unless used often will either freeze up or leak so look for fluid leaks on the back side of the rear drums.

I hope it works out & good luck!
 
Wow...this much discussion on a wedge??? :thumbsup:
 
Back
Top