Wedge Going to look at a 1980 TR7 on Thursday

[Got_All_4]

Going Thursday night to look at a Tr7 and asking for what to look out for? First of all it does not run so I can't test for suspension problems. The owner said he had a fuel pump recently installed. He thinks having it sit over the winter gummed up the carbs and that's why it won't start. He said it will run using spray start and is the only way it will continue to run is keep spraying. What could be the possible problem? Obviously it's not getting fuel.

Supposably it's been garage kept and all I have to go on now are the pics they sent and it looks solid. However until I put an eyeball on it then I'll know for sure. No pics of the engine compartment so I couldn't see the strut towers. He's asking $2200.

 

[George_H]

If its been outside, these cars can get water in the gas tank. I bought one and water had filled the float bowls and rusted out the clips holding the float. The gas tank is not easy to take out. Other than that its the usual rust rust rust. For 2200 you should be able to find a real nice tr7, So for a non runner the rest better be real real nice.

 

[tdskip]

If that is the only issue then as noted drain/fresh fuel and flow is pretty simple to address.

Keep us posted, and throw some pictures up here so we can help take a look.

 

[TR3driver]

Does the fuel pump run? If not, it might be as simple as a tripped inertia switch.

Another possibility, the jets or float valves in the carbs are blocked by deposits.

 

[Got_All_4]

The owner did say they had water in the tank so that would lead me to believe the float bowls are corroded.

I'll post a few pics. The first on is the interior. The car is dark green and the door vinyl is gray?

 

[Got_All_4]

Right side

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Interior's definitely been changed. Should be either tan plaid or tan cloth (probably plaid).

As for structural issues, take a look at the floor behind each seat. The rear links are connected there, and if those areas are compromised, it's trouble. Also, check under the master cylinders; leakage can spell trouble as well. And one other potential problem area lies along the area between the outboard front corners of the boot and the rear scuttle.

Mickey

 

[TR3driver]

The owner did say they had water in the tank so that would lead me to believe the float bowls are corroded.

Egad. For that price, I wouldn't even bother looking at it. The club got one for free that had a tank full of water, and IMO it cost too much.

 

[George_H]

The door vinyl is correct, just very faded. has seat covers on, so I would assume bad seats. I have 2 tr7s that I bought in similar condition, I paid less than 750 for each. IMO save gas, keep looking.

 

[PATR8]

I bought a rust free one with a new top for $750. The head had warped but for reasonable price it is an easy fix

 

[PATR8]

I bought a rust free one with a new top for $750. The head had warped but for reasonable price it is an easy fix

 

[Got_All_4]

I thought in the original pics and description that it was nicer. At least for learning experience I think I'll still go. For some reason around here owners ask a lot for there TR7's. I know there not worth much. That's why I don't have one yet. Average price is 3k and see them up to 7k. Of course they never sell. Even for early coupes. $1200 and lower absolute junk.

 

[tdskip]

The owner did say they had water in the tank so that would lead me to believe the float bowls are corroded.

Egad. For that price, I wouldn't even bother looking at it. The club got one for free that had a tank full of water, and IMO it cost too much.

Randall doesn't care much for Wedges I guess

Water in the tank is more of a pain, than anything. Drain it really well and you are usually OK. Search on "TR8 fuel issues" and you'll see recent discussion on this.

 

[TR3driver]

Well, in fairness, the club car had fuel injection (CA model). And pretty much the entire fuel system, from the filler cap to the injectors, had to be removed and repaired or replaced. Seems like I recall hearing they had to work on the engine as well, even though it was "running when parked". The aluminum head is easily ruined just sitting parked (dissimilar metal corrosion with the iron block) and just a rebuilt head costs as much as the car is worth.

So it's not that I dislike wedges, in fact I hope to acquire a TR8 once I get rid of one of the Stags. But for under $4k you could buy this TR7:

and drive it home.

 

[DanB]

How many miles? TR7s were pretty sorted out by '80, but time does take its toll. I see you are in NE Ohio, that means rustbelt so find out if it was rustproofed and/or stored inside much of its life. I bought mine in Wisconsin, but the owner had it treated when new, kept it in the garage and stored it winters. It was almost new looking, with under 42,000 on it and I gave $2200 for it about 4 years ago, so that should give you a ballpark idea of the value.

As far as why it won't run, check the rubber carb mounts. They are probably separated.

Dan B
S.Chas, WV

 

[GBRandy]

FIRST....check for rust in the trailing arms where they attach to the body behind the seats. That is a difficult repair. Any rust anywhere will be tough to fix and remain within the market value of the car.

That interior picture is pretty scary. My observations:
1. The door panels are incorrect for a 1980 car. They should be plaid.
2. The seats are way wrong and should be matching plaid with the doors. If those are seat covers...pull them back. I suspect a a scary sight.
3. Based on the door pulls, center arm rest & carpet it looks like this was a tan interior car.
4. The boot around the hand brake should be tan as should shift gaitor...they are black....?
5. The carpet looks pretty scary.
6. The 1980's had gray interior plastic bits. The picture looks like they are all black which was pre 1979 I thought.
7. Stick shift is still original height....most of us cut those down an inch or so.
8. My guess is that car came with a tan top...not black.
9. The outside mirrors are not even close to the originals
10. The wheels look wrong for a 1980. It should have the magnesium wheels, not the pressed steel wheels.

....have you considered looking at a TR8? I know they are more money, but they are a completely different car to drive & repair.

Here is a picture of the interior from my 1980 TR8 as a reference to compare against the TR7 interior... Mine is completely stock save for the radio:

1980 TR7 Interior:

 

[GBRandy]

So it's not that I dislike wedges, in fact I hope to acquire a TR8 once I get rid of one of the Stags. But for under $4k you could buy this one :

and drive it home.

That's a 1980 TR7 Spider....and that is what the wheels SHOULD look like on the 1980 car being considered.

Am I understanding you correctly and someone is pitching that as a TR8? if they are they did an engine swap.

 

[TR3driver]

Am I understanding you correctly and someone is pitching that as a TR8? if they are they did an engine swap.

Sorry, no, I did not mean to imply that. It is advertised as a TR7.

True TR8s, or even TR7s with V8 conversions, seem to command a substantial premium over TR7s in the same condition. Around here at least, they rarely show up for under $5k, and when they do, they have significant issues.

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Hey, Randall -

Somewhat off-topic, but each time you post a picture it skews all the text to where it's expanded beyond the right-side margin.

Is there a way you can adjust the pictures you post that will fix that?

Mickey

 

[TR3driver]

each time you post a picture it skews all the text to where it's expanded beyond the right-side margin.

That's strange, it looks fine to me with both Netscape & IE 7. Are you working with a really small screen? What browser and OS ?
The photo above is just an IMG link, not "mine" at all. I also don't understand why there would be anything special about my posts.

Is this any better?