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Generator

My gen light comes on at under 800 RPM idle so thinking of the converted generator to alternator as I too will drive it to death.
What did it cost to have done in Portland?

Car tachs usually read low so perhaps increasing the idle speed on your tach to 1000 RPM may resolve the problem.
 
O.K. Just finishing up the alt conversion. I found a wire installed incorrectly on the regulator. My car was converted to Neg. ground. Confirm for Me that no changes are made to the regulator when switching to neg. ground? This incorrect wire could explain a few weird gremlins I have.
 
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I would go with the thread here on the forum. Whoever made that document on the Healey6 website copied the wrong diagram for the regulator. Dave later posted the correct RB340 diagram in the forum thread. The text and all the other photos on Healey6 were copied from the BCF thread of mine and Dave Russell's posts.
 
I deleted the brown/green wire entirely (I called it green/brown in that old thread). Looking at Dave's regulator diagram, it looks like he moved the brown/green from the "F" terminal to the "D" terminal, thus deleting the second brown/yellow wire at the regulator. I don't know why he did that (or if he just got that diagram from somewhere else) and unfortunately, we can't ask him.
 
This setup has worked for me since 2009 on my 3-wire Denso Mini-Chevy alternator:
Using the old regulator (gutted) as a buss bar:
Lg Yellow from Generator - isolated
Sm Yellow and Sm Yellow Green - joined (these are for the generator light)
3 Lg Brown wires - joined.

Pictures: see https://www.healey6.com/Technical/Alternator1.pdf
 
The Hendrix-Lenschow kit has pictures of the connections, which I followed. They also show use of wire nuts to make the connections instead of the regulator buss.
In the earlier thread quoted previously, the late Dave said you didn't have to gut the alternator.
 
Well after comparing the 2 diagrams for hours , Daves shows brn/yel (alt output) powering all 4 brn wires. Don't I have that with the wire from the bat. term on the alt. to the solenoid? The brn from the sol. should feed the other 3 brn wires at the RB340. The plug at the alt has a red pigtail and a white pigtail, right now the red goes to the batt. term on the alt. The white connects to the brn/yel if the white wire is an output, that should work the dash light. I just need to figure out where the cut-out contact is and block it.
 
I found RAC68's write up on google docs or something, My wiring is good if I gut the regulator or I'm guessing if I isolate the cut-out points , which is what Dave brought up.
 
Realizing that RAC68 is wiser than I am, I followed His write up including gutting the control box and everything worked out great.
 
Well after comparing the 2 diagrams for hours , Daves shows brn/yel (alt output) powering all 4 brn wires. Don't I have that with the wire from the bat. term on the alt. to the solenoid? The brn from the sol. should feed the other 3 brn wires at the RB340. The plug at the alt has a red pigtail and a white pigtail, right now the red goes to the batt. term on the alt. The white connects to the brn/yel if the white wire is an output, that should work the dash light. I just need to figure out where the cut-out contact is and block it.
I took an old bad regulator and did this to it to make it work. My car is negative ground and i use an alternator.
 

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Yes I remember reading Your posts on this, If I add more accessories I think I will do the same. Looks like a extra feed would be handy.
 
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