TR2/3/3A Generator Output

[TR3MT]

Hello All,
_At highway speeds my amp meter reads a charge of +3 amps but when I turn the head lights on I get a steading reading of about -5 amps. Is there a way I can increase the amp output? The fan belt is tight.
Thanks for any input,
TR3MT

 

[auprichard]

I have an alternator in all 5 of my cars. Your specific questions:
- Bypassing the regulator involves joining the large yellow, brown/white and brown/blue and then joining the smaller yellow with the yellow/green (see diagram). I pull the guts from the regulator and join the appropriate terminals as described in a recent Rusty Beauties youtube by Elin Yakov.
- The ammeter will still work, but a voltage gauge is a good idea. Remember it is fed by a simple ignition (white wire) feed. Make sure you tie off and insulate the ammeter wires as they are live all the time.
- The red ignition light will work - see attached diagram for a single pole alternator. Some alternators however have two poles in addition to the main stud: these will require an ignition feed, either from the on/off switch or a wire from the coil or fuse box.

 

[CJD]

I see no reason to bypass the ammeter in the conversion. It tells more about the system health than a voltage gage, and will not deter from your conversion at all?!?

 

[KVH]

Somewhere I’m sure I read that the output of the alternator will burn up the ammeter or wires to it, and that it must be bypassed. I’m seeing different positions now on that issue. Can you clear up that confusion?

Also, I’m not sure what is being shown in the far right upper side of the second diagram posted by Auprichard under where it says Figure 10. What is that?

 

[TR Tom]

Also, I’m not sure what is being shown in the far right upper side of the second diagram posted by Auprichard under where it says Figure 10. What is that?

That’s the coil

 

[CJD]

Yep, good point! If you are installing an alternator that is capable of more than 30 amps, it could permanently damage the OEM ammeter. In the archives you find the fix provided by our late Randall. He explains how to install a resistor to the ammeter so it will take 60 amps...of course the mod means the actual amps will be twice the gage reading, after the mod.

 

[KVH]

So if I’m understanding the diagrams above, with an alternator conversion, the battery terminal of the alternator is routed to one terminal of the ammeter and the voltage regulator/control box is completely bypassed, but it is probably necessary to put a resistor in the line between the alternator and the ammeter. Or, I could eliminate the ammeter and replace it with a close replica voltage gauge.

The new wiring to the dash indicator light seems a simple step, wired as shown in the diagram.

Presumably, it will be clear what happens to all the wires pulled off the control box which becomes obsolete.

I’m thinking I’ll give it all a try.