• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Fuel Tank Possibility?

Share this page

The Imortal words of Neil Young,,,

"RUST NEVER SLEEPS"



<span style="font-size: 14pt"><span style="font-weight: bold">Dale this time I think you should bite the bullet & get yourself that new tank!
Just think of all the time effort and $$ you've already put into that beast, better to do it right the 1st time....</span></span> <span style="color: #3333FF"> </span>
 
Anybody have a tank they'd trade to Dale for $300 worth of fresh fish?! Then only shipping is involved? :smile:

How big is a TR6 gas tank? Could it be checked as oversized luggage? Even paying that charge would be cheaper than the freight charge. I have seen people from other countries fly home with big screen tv's. Dale, take your Mrs. on a vacation to somewhere "mainland", pick one up, fly it home.

Trying to think of a work around here....
 
That aside, did ya do any DRIVING today??!! :laugh:
 
Silverghost said:
That aside, did ya do any DRIVING today??!! :laugh:
Click to expand...


<span style="color: #990000">Almost drove the TR6 today

until............

the magnet pulled up all that rust from the
tank bottom. Won't drive it as a bad bet now.

I'm still in fuel delivery/ignition testing phase.
Straight fuel lines with no fuel filter in place. (yet)
The almost 2 hour drive (san filter) started out as
a 20 mile drive, Italian tuneup to blow out carbon.
Got carried away when 20 miles w/out breakdown happened
so I continued onward.

I may just have to smuggle a quart of fuel tank sealer
onto the island. Anyone familiar with RED-KOTE?

thanks,

d</span>
 
<span style="color: #000099">Almost out the door and I am thinking

Would it be possible to zinc electroplate the tank
after another round of nuts and bolts shake up?

I have free access to unlimited pure zinc ingots at the
marina. I know how to make a solution of zinc salts.

Question is:

Will the zinc coat the tank insides, where even small
amounts of Fe2O3 might be is present?

Anyone have any experience with zinc electroplating when rust is present?

off to exam. Thanks :lol:

dale</span>
 
zinc will not plate over the rust. But try the opposite to absolute all the rust and not hurt the good steel, electrolytic rust removal. I have tried this and it does work.

electrodiagram.gif


In your case the piece to be cleaned is the tank. So connect the negative to the tank, and the positive to the steel anode inserted into the tank.

Here is the particulars.

https://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html

Clean out the tank real well then zinc plate, it should work and only cost you some time
 
Having done both electrolytic and chemical rust removal recently... I would suggest that phosphoric acid, although less sexy than electrolitic conversion, is vastly easier, particularly when dealing with the inside surface of a tank designed to hold liquid! :smile:

My advice:

- pull tank. fill with water and pebbles or nuts & bolts, boil on BBQ for an hour or two. (Keeps the neighbours guessing as to your sanity!)

- empty, fill with a couple of quarts of acid etch. Rotate every couple of hours, so all surfaces are treated. Use a mirror or scope to verify all rust is gone. (Acid can be filtered and reused again and again.)

- SEAL TANK! Allow to cure as per manufacturer's recommendations

- Drive, have fun, etc.

Total cost... your time, and maybe $50-60 worth of chemicals.
 
I second Duncan's suggestions from the BBQ right through to POR coating. I've used the Kreem coating kit (similar to Eastwood's) and I've used POR. I like the POR much, much more.
 
Aloha Dale,

I know that the being "overseas" is a problem when trying to import either POR15 or the Eastwood tank sealing kit. For those not familiar with this dilemma is these products can not be shipped by air freight because they are considered hazardous materials. Ocean freight shipment of small items is cost prohibitive because usually minimum charges apply, to Hawaii it is about $75 or so.

Are you familiar with a product called Ospho? It is generally available at marine supply stores, boat repair facilities and possible hardware or paint stores. here is a link to the manufacturers website,

https://www.ospho.com/

It is basically a phosphoric acid product that converts iron oxide to iron phosphate. It is a rust inhibiting compound not a paint. I've used on rusty car parts and it works well for me. It is available in quart and gallon bottles. I think a quart is about $20 or less. It has a consistency like water so it should be ease to slosh around in a gas tank to get into all the corners. Although it won't provide a protective coating like paint, it will kill the rust and I think greatly slow new rusting.
 
Dave, with those 1950 era cars, I bet you've used your share of the stuff. I have too.
The really good thing about is that it not only converts rust, it is so thin that it gets into the smallest of cracks and crevices.
I've found phosphoric acid by various trade names in places like Lowes and Advanced Auto. I have a quart from Advanced under the name of "Right Stuff".
 
Ospho and other phosphoric acid treatments are good. They are a standard preparation component of the gas tank lining kits.

Dale, refresh my memory... when you last ran a fuel tank thread I thought someone identified a POR distributor in PR. Am I imagining that?
 
Give it a POR 15 fuel tank treatment, & then go look for some other problem, to play with, because you won't have a gas tank problem.

It has worked for me, with various Triumph tanks. In my climate, like yours, its condensation which gives you the problem, with rust from the inside.

Hasbeen
 
dklawson said:
Ospho and other phosphoric acid treatments are good. They are a standard preparation component of the gas tank lining kits.

Dale, refresh my memory... when you last ran a fuel tank thread I thought someone identified a POR distributor in PR. Am I imagining that?
Click to expand...


<span style="color: #CC0000">Yes Doug, there is a "supposed" POR distributor
on the island. He does not answer emails or phone mesaages. Other
BCF members have tried with no success to contact him.

My problem is basically Homeland Security. They prohibit the
manufactures like Eastwood, POR, etc. from sending liquid products
to Puerto Rico. One recently quoted me $70 special handling to put
a pint of something in the UPS freight delivery.

Looks like it's back to the concept board.</span>

<span style="color: #009900">Thanks for the advice,Duncan. Converting the rust is not my
problem area- I have the chemiocals. I have been unable to source a tank
coating locally. </span>

My filter system is going back into the fuel system today.
A temporary fix, I know. But I'll be able to drive the car
until the next breakdown.

newfilters.jpg


d :savewave:
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]
My problem is basically Homeland Security. They prohibit the
manufactures like Eastwood, POR, etc. from sending liquid products
to Puerto Rico. One recently quoted me $70 special handling to put
a pint of something in the UPS freight delivery.
[/QUOTE]

And this is MORE expensive than having someone lay fibreglass in your fuel tank?
 
Sorry Alan- that quote was Not for a tank sealant.
The tanks guys will not ship liguids here, period.
Poorly worded on my part.

Maybe I'll connect five 2 gallon each, metal gas cans
into a manifold of sorts, install new fuel lines and drive
and drag them around in my trunk.


d
 
Tinster said:
Sorry Alan- that quote was Not for a tank sealant.
The tanks guys will not ship liguids here, period.
Poorly worded on my part.

Maybe I'll connect five 2 gallon each, metal gas cans
into a manifold of sorts, install new fuel lines and drive
and drag them around in my trunk.


d
Click to expand...

NOOOO!!! :nonono:

Do that, and you won't have to worry about breakdowns - Amos will surely self-destruct in a fiery spectacle!
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Maybe I'll connect five 2 gallon each, metal gas cans
into a manifold of sorts, install new fuel lines and drive
and drag them around in my trunk.[/QUOTE]

Dale, this is getting more over engineered and ridiculously dangerous by the minute.........

Put a factory style, see through, G2 filter ahead of the pump and drive the car. Check it every 150 - 200 miles and if it needs changed, change it. If not leave it alone. That system has worked for cars driven millions of miles over the years. Yes, it can become clogged, so then you replace it when it needs it. That's why it's a "replacement" item. All of those filters are just overkill.

The rust that you pull up with a magnet will more than likely stay settled on the bottom of the tank is left alone.

There isn't any of us, with the exception of those who have completely restored or replaced our tanks that don't have some junk or rust in there.
 
Tinster said:
Maybe I'll connect five 2 gallon each, metal gas cans
into a manifold of sorts, install new fuel lines and drive
and drag them around in my trunk.
d
Click to expand...


<span style="color: #009900">tongue-in-cheek!
I know the containers should be plastic !! </span>
 
Back
Top