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Fuel tank cleaning/restoration

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I second the opinion of not coating the tank if it really doesn't need it.
I bought a TR6 that had sat for many years and the tank needed to be cleaned out. No pin holes, just "gunk" in the tank. I used the electrolysis method and it did an "alright" job of cleaning the tank.
The tank was filled with washing soda and then I hooked it up to my battery charger with a old tire iron to suspend in the electrolyte solution. It took a couple of days but it collected lots of rust on the anode which I removed and cleaned everyday. After a couple of days hooked up to the charger I emptied the tank and used a hose to flush out all the remaining flakes that had come off in the cleaning process.

Fuel Tank.jpg

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Elliot - interesting idea, which I might try myself. I've heard of that method before.

What exactly do you mean "fill with washing soda"? Washing soda is a powder - so do you mean some diluted mixture of it in water?

Tom M.
 
Exactly Tom. Plain old Arm and Hammer Washing Soda mixed into warm water.
 
Thanks Elliot. When my assistant wakes up and gets off the table, I'll send him out to get some washing soda, then try the procedure.

View attachment 49652

Like my science teacher, I'm always wary of working with electricity.
 
Make sure to dry it out for a couple of days and keep rotating the tank to get any trapped liquid out.
 
That's a definite, but always problematic with the baffles inside the tank. When I get to removing and cleaning the tank, I'll probably also used compressed air. I assume you did this, then followed with some professional coating system?

Thanks.
TM
 
No, I did not coat this tank after the electrolysis cleaning... Cleaned it, let it air dry for days then reinstalled. Rotating the tank will dislodge any liquid trapped by the baffles.
I did however use the POR tank coating on my the TR6 that I'm currently driving. It's been about 6 years since I coated it and have not had any problems.
 
The vinyl tubing is OK to see what's going on in the fuel system (I've done it), but it's a good idea to replace it with correct fuel line as soon as you can. Unless it is the fuel-resistant type, it will get brittle quickly with exposure to gasoline. Also, it won't handle underhood temperatures.
 
Interesting timing that this thread should resurface. Earlier I posted that the left hand tank in my Mini had experienced failure with the POR coating so I stripped it and coated it with Red Kote. Three days ago I noticed drip marks under the left rear corner of the car and found it was fuel. I removed the L/H tank and found the Red Kote had failed spectacularly. There was a fluffy coating of rust everywhere inside the tank and the Red Kote was peeling off. Needless to say, I am not happy.
 
As I read and re-read this thread I am struck again that should I need to do anything with the Vauxhall tank (I don't think I will) that I will send it out - it seems like some finishes you can't quite get DIY
 
I am certainly careful in following the instructions for DIY coating but clearly I am doing something wrong. Professional tank coating charges vary a lot depending on the type of tank and its size. If a new tank is not available, the cost of professional work is certainly justified!

I am still on the fence about which direction I go next. I will decide in the next few days.
 
Doug - did you decide what you'll be doing on your tank?

I'll be inspecting the inside of my TD's tank today, and next week will probably just drain, wash with detergent, rinse, air dry. I've read several horror stories on MG forums, about internal coatings gone bad, or clogging the line, or worse. My clear in-line filter has picked up only some red "dust" - no chunks of anything - over the last week, and there's no sign of leaks anywhere.

Tom M.
 
I am stubborn and I guess somewhat unlucky.

I had decided to buy a used tank for $150 from an acquaintance in TN. He was delivering parts about two hours west of where I live so I drove to meet him. There are three possible tanks and the would-be seller misinterpreted which I needed. When I got there, he had the wrong tank.

Other sources for USED tanks want $250 plus about $50 for shipping. New tanks... $600 (to $900) plus shipping. Shoot... those $300 used tanks are still an unknown. They could have pinholes of their own to worry about.

I contacted three professional tank coaters. The prices ranged from about $150 for Red Kote (which had already failed for me) to $400 for a super boil out and epoxy type coating application. There are no places local to me. One is an hour's drive away (and only open 9:00 to 5:00 Monday through Friday) and the others involve additional shipping charges (each way) to places like PA.

I may eventually have to buy another tank. For now I am making one more attempt at coating. I took my old leaky gas tank and sloshed it for days with MEK to remove the Red Kote. That was followed by a day of sloshing with strong caustic. That was followed by several days of electrolysis cleaning. It is currently going through at least a week of on/off sloshing with a gallon of phosphoric acid inside. I'm going to clean, clean, clean the inside of my old tank to get rid of every trace of rust (particularly in the seams), neutralize the acid, then start the cleaning and prep process again. This time I am going to try the Caswell epoxy lining kit... following their prep steps to the letter. I'll give this tank one more go before I invest the $300 to $600 in professional coating and/or a new tank.
 
Nope, this is for the Mini. I wish they were as cheap as $160! I mentioned the prices above.

There are limited used tanks available in the U.S. and shipping (new or used) from the U.K. costs a mint due to the size and weight. I could ask one of the Mini importers to put one in his next container shipment but I'd be getting a lot of other people involved along the way. There are too many chances for mistakes and I don't want to feel like I owe the importer a favor.

I'll give DIY coating one more chance. If it fails again I'll spring for the new tank.

EDIT: The really crazy thing about this is my problem tank is the left-hand, common fuel tank from the 1960s. When I bought my Mini 18 or so years ago, it was the right-hand tanks (used on Cooper-S models) that were expensive at about $500 used and $800 new. It is really upsetting that with the millions of Minis out there, the small, common tank has become so expensive. They now cost MORE than the less common right-hand tanks. Oh well. It is what it is.
 
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Resurrecting this thread - Now that cold weather is setting in, I've got time for the fuel tank cleaning.

I like the "wash with water and detergent, rinse, then air dry" method. There's minimal rust, but some nice healthy green/yellow slime in there. And the tank doesn't leak at all.

But has anyone heard of using vinegar to clean out that gunk/glop at the bottom of the tank?

Thanks.
TM
 
NutmegCT said:
Resurrecting this thread - Now that cold weather is setting in, I've got time for the fuel tank cleaning.

I like the "wash with water and detergent, rinse, then air dry" method. There's minimal rust, but some nice healthy green/yellow slime in there. And the tank doesn't leak at all.

But has anyone heard of using vinegar to clean out that gunk/glop at the bottom of the tank?

Thanks.
TM
Click to expand...

Can't hurt. I might also consider a product like CLR - but, I suspect a length of chain or gravel or some such thing might loosen a lot of that slime.
 
BTW I left a note for you in "Other Cars" - just sayin' :grin:
 
Thanks JP. I've heard about the "chain" and "handful of bolts and nuts" thing. But as the tank has vertical baffles, you can't actually see what's going on, and I don't want to lose a couple bolts up in there, and the chain would never make it past the first baffle.

CLR - might give that a thought.

TM
 
I'm not getting Toms attachments, coming up as invalid, no problems elsewhere. ??? PJ
 
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