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Fuel pump rebuild

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PeterK

PeterK

Yoda
Offline
Before reading Paul's excellent fuel pump rebuild instruction, I tanked and disassembled my fuel pump. I noticed a ruber seal around the diaphram shaft and used a pick to tear it out through the hole in the cup that holds it in. Then I lightly pried around the inside of the cup hole to remove it. No go, the cup wasn't coming out without risk of ruin. THEN, I read Brosky's write-up that said"

"It's also too bad that the cups are not there because you have two new seals for the diaphragm shaft, but no way to get the very thin wall cup out without ruining it."

Well, merde! Why would TRF sell you a seal that cannot be installed? Answer is, they didn't. Here's how I removed mine and it was easy.

I inserted a 3/8" bolt through the hole in the thin wall cup and inserted a matching hex nut inside the pump body, threading them together. I inverted the pump body and clamped the head of the 3/8" hex bolt in my vise. Then I used a clamshell clamp used for pressing bearing off and lightly and evenly wedged it under the head of the hex bolt. These clamshell clamps are used when removing pressed-in bearings to add the pressure around the bearing holder instead of prying around each edge. It's like having a full circumference of screwdrivers all prying at the same time and at the same intensity. So after the clamshell was lightly set, I simply grabbed it from each side and pulled upwards. Voila. Done.

I'll go in and get a flash card so you can have a pic shortly.
 
Excellent improvising Peter. I'd like to see the pics on that.

I did have several discussions with Albert (Charles son) at TRF and the company that made the stamped cups is out of business and they have not been able to get them for several years.

That is why I searched and found a new kit with an all rubber seal that fits on top of the old cap and is held down by the spring under the diaphragm.
 
Ok this one shows the pump body. The 3/8" bolt head is clamped in the vise and the body is resting on the clamshell bearing separator.
 

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This one show the completed removal of the seal retainer cup after the pump body is lifted off.

hth someone.
 

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The new seal sits inside of the cup and then pressed in with my fingers. I thought I would need to tap it with a block but just pressed in.

This is from my garage camera so sorry for the blurrrrr.
 

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Peter,

You may want to stake it down. Lots of movement on that shaft.
 
I noticed that on your 6 fuel pump it was staked. This one wasn't originally staked but that is moot because I am not satisfied with the quality of the casting on this pump due to corrosion and will be doing this all over again using the original pump from the 3A. The 3A is a black plate car and I really can't see changing out for the crusty pump from my parts car. The interference fit is really pretty tight but I'll consider staking once I get back to that point.

I used your site pivture when I started reassembling. They really helped. One this you might consider adding to the diaphram to lever fitting: when you press the diaphram shaft into the lever, you must align it and push down and turn the diaphram 2 holes which turns the shaft lock 90 deg. into the lever to lock it in place.
 
Peter,

Thank you for pointing that out. I did paste your instructions right into the page. I thought that I added all of the detail, but I missed some things.

I will be doing a new page soon, showing the newer polished pumps and the newest kits.
 
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